Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands-On

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands-On

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

As Bell & Ross retreats into the history of timepieces to create more "vintage, original, and heritage" timepieces, we see an increasingly interesting range of retro designs as only Bell & Ross can do it. This year Bell & Ross has gone all the way back to the origins of the wrist watch with the "WW1." The name means "wrist watch 1," but not so ironically sounds like world war I. This is the era when wrist watches really began - so the name sort of has a double meaning.

The WW1 is a different feeling Bell & Ross, and treads into new territory. The concept of the piece is based on how some of the first wrist watches were modified pocket watches. To compound this idea, Bell & Ross has also released a pocket watch version called the PW1. The pocket watch won't sell as well as the wrist watch, but is a good visual reminder of how you are meant to think of both pocket watch and wrist watch when looking at the WW1.

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

Like a pocket watch the case is very rounded and pebble-like. This causes it feels less dense than much of what Bell & Ross offers. The steel case is polished all over and curved with a matching curved sapphire crystal. Lugs are done in the style of those that were once melted to the sides of pocket watches to make them wrist watches. Bell & Ross takes pride in this aspect of the watch and I think they did a good job with it - better than Panerai on their Radiomir and retro models. One cool aspect is that it is not a solid bar, but rather looks like one. The middle section is actually a spring bar - this makes changing straps much easier than if you needed to unscrew the bar.

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

Overall the case is very slick looking, but it would take a bit for me to get used to it. In a sense, this is of the most minimalist designs that Bell & Ross has ever offered.  This is also not a sport watch. Bell & Ross placed the piece on an alligator strap, and with 50 meters of water resistance - the case isn't that durable. Size of the watch is a neat 45mm wide, though it wears smaller due to the short lugs.

For the dial Bell & Ross really excels again offering that early 20th century period look along with an easy to read face. The iconic Bell & Ross dial is present with thinner indexes and new hands. How many dial styles will there be? Not sure right now, but there will be a few. Like the BR01 when it first came out, there ought to be a few models of the WW1 containing ETA's core 289X series automatic movements. Here you see one with a 2896 (big date) and another with a 2897 (power reserve). This makes me think that Bell & Ross will also have the more basic 2892 model, as well as perhaps others. I actually think a version with a 2895 would look nice (subsidiary seconds dial), as opposed to having the large central seconds hand. UPDATE: The WW1 will come in three styles initially They will have either an ETA 2896, 2897, or 2890. Another version will be released later with a totally different dial and will contain a 2892.

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

Bell & Ross WW1 Watch Hands On   hands on

The PW1 pocket watch is larger at 49mm wide and comes complete with a chain. The dial is polished differently with a sunburst style, and the caseback is machine engraved. Inside of the pocket watch is a Swiss ETA manually wound 6974 movement. Both the WW1 and PW1 are interesting models, but Bell & Ross has traveled so far back they no longer have any place to go with these retro models. Does this mean we start to look forward again next year? Or perhaps the vintage style collections will examine themselves and history even more as Bell & Ross adds the brand's lineup. Prices for the wrist and pocket watch are $4,500. UPDATE: Bell & Ross decided to amend the pricing on the pocket watch version to $3,000. They did this for a special reason to help promote the pocket watch despite the reduction in revenue of its sales. This has a lot to do with the CEO's big personal interest in pocket watches these days - wanting that DNA to be part of what Bell & Ross is all about.

8 comments
Wayne
Wayne

I am a fan of classic military watches but this does look painfully bland. The lugs are the only aspect of the watch that really stands out to me. Bell & Ross seem to be more of a fashion watch maker than a true time piece brand. I feel like it was a really good idea that just was not executed to potential. Though different strokes for different folks.

kris c
kris c

I'd sport it - I like. br-01 models are nice, but just too obnoxious in size. 45mm in a circle is much more wearible (i have a 45mm circle on now). Big date model for me please.

A. Steinberg
A. Steinberg

Bell & Ross makes some of the uglyest watches in the world.

Ulysses
Ulysses

Well, I really like it. It's simple and clear. The strap is a little narrow for the size of the watch, and the price is too high considering what else can be had for that value. I don't think it is an attempt to cash in on a traumatic period of history though, any more than I would think the Apollo program honoured the V2 rocket and all the Nazi engineers who made it a success. There are some watches i've seen that have a thick metal grille on the front, directly copying WWI designs that required protection for the crystal. That's fashion for you - it only considers aesthetics and nothing else, which is why it has a reputation for the superficial.

Chris
Chris

I'm really not done with the haterade.

There's something about B&R doing this watch that is extra silly. A company like Longine, Hamilton, or Omega could do it, but not one so modern. Even the company name on the dial is way too modern looking for this piece.

Also, this is an automatic watch with an undersized crown. Automatic. Why? My guess is because it was cheaper. That solid caseback isn't a nod to the original so much as it's a cheap attempt to hide it's shame.

The white frame around the date window is really flashy and unnecessary. A power reserve on an automatic. These are really unnecessary complications that don't do much for the watch except make it even more of a me-too watch.

And the strap. What no thought put into this?

It's like the B&R folks designed this by looking at an IWC Big Pilot and asking what it had and then doing the same, but cheaper.

Again, I really like the look overall, and the case looks nice. It's just to flawed to command that price or get an ounce of respect.

Chris
Chris

I really like the design, but I agree, a sub-seconds model would be ideal.

$4,500 for this watch featuring a small ETA movement slapped in a large, unsophisticated case seems high. Not Radiomir high, but those are such colossally overpriced watches that they should hardly be a goal for watch companies to aspire to.

It's also designed to evoke an event that resulted in the deaths of millions of people seems exploitative in the worst way. The WWI connection is really what makes this watch and that's more than a bit wrong.

Fred I
Fred I

I dislike B&R's other offering they do nothing for me, this however is gorgeous and I wish I could wear it but 45mm is just tooooooo large, if it cam in 40mm maybe even 42mm I think this would probably be the next watch I'd buy. The styling is gorgeous but I think it might be a bit much to wear with a suit and would probably look funny on my small 6 inch wrists. . .

admin
admin

I was just wearing the WW1 again earlier today - it really doesn't wear that large and is very modest in stature for a 45mm wide watch. A lot of that has to do with the fact that it does not look like a chunky watch.

Trackbacks

  1. […] This is the Bell & Ross WW1-90-S, a recent model inspired by WW1-era pocketwatch conversions, where the lugs were loops of wire soldered onto the case. This one has the automatic ETA 2892 base with (I assume) either Soprod or Dubois-Dupraz modules for big date and power reserve. We first covered the Bell & Ross WW1 watch collection here. […]