Category: Breitling

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Breitling Transocean Unitime Watch Hands-On

Breitling Transocean Unitime Watch Hands On   breitling

The newest in-house movement from the house of Breitling for 2012 is the caliber 05. It builds on the original caliber 01 by adding a handy world time ring to the dial. The movement debuts in the good looking Transocean Unitime watch, which will now be promoted by new Breitling brand ambassador David Beckham. I go hands-on with the watch to tell you what it is all about.

Recently Breitling unveiled the modern Transocean collection with a three-hand and chronograph model which I reviewed hands-on here. The Transocean is a slick, retro-looking boardroom watch in a contemporary size, fitting for today's "Breitling guy." That means the three-hand automatic isn't dainty being 43mm wide. This new Transocean Unitime however is larger at 46mm wide. That certainly isn't too large for a Breitling, but is probably close to the size ceiling for what people want in a classic looking timepiece.

Functionally, the Transocean Unitime adds a world time ring and aesthetically it also adds a globe in the center of the dial. When I first saw pictures of the Unitime I thought the globe look glossy and might have been in mother-of-pearl. No, not for this manly watch. The center globe is more a blue with a natural looking color gradient with gray-colored land masses. It certainly conveys the message of "this is a travelers watch" - no confusion there. Everyone loves a nice 24 hour disc-based world time feature. You've seen this on pieces from Patek Philippe, down to entry level luxury watch brands. It is very handy. For a long time if you wanted a good world timer watch with a chronograph you'd get something like a Girard-Perregaux ww.tc (reviewed here). Now you can add a Breitling Transocean Unitime to that short list.

Breitling Transocean Unitime Watch Hands On   breitling

Breitling Transocean Unitime Watch Hands On   breitling

"Unitime" actually stands for "universal time." I think that Breitling didn't want to sound ordinary and came up with a name that was anything but "world timer." I would have done the same. Though "Unitime" sorta of sounds like it means "one time," which is ironically the exact opposite of what this watch displays. Added to the dial on a watch like this are two moving discs. First is a 24 hour disc that is used in conjunction with second, a reference city ring. Together these are used to tell the time in each of the 24 main time zones based on the local time. You always need to set the local time on the city ring when moving around. The good news is that because this is built on the 01 movement, you can adjust only the hour when changing your time zone. That helps preserve timepiece accuracy when setting the watch.

Another useful feature that is part of the 01 and helps out here in the 05 is that the date changes while adjusting the watch forward or backwards in time. This means that when traveling the date will go forward or back if necessary without having to complete a separate setting task. The city ring also has indicators for those cities that recognize daylight saving time. I swear, I am so looking forward to the global annihilation of day light saving time. Most travelers looking for a good mechanical timepiece to take with them usually can't go wrong with a world time chronograph in my personal opinion.

Breitling Transocean Unitime Watch Hands On   breitling

Design-wise the central blue globe is going to be hit or miss with watch buyers. Breliting offers the Unitime in both a black or white dial option, with the watch case being available in either steel or 18k red gold. While the piece is in the Transocean collection, I swear sometimes it feels like the long lost cousin of the Breitling Navitimer... just replace the slide-rule for world time, and a different mother. Also, while I haven't spent a lot of time with the caliber 05, I have spent time with others in the Breitling in-house made movement family, and they have been really solid performers (and are all Chronometers).

Then there is the matter of the pieces' new ambassador. Here in the US, Mr. Beckham is probably the most popular member of the least popular major sport. I know in Europe and South America for example people are soccer crazy - so any watch brand affiliation with Mr. Beckham is probably really good. These new ad images from an upcoming Breitling/Beckham campaign are of a very high production value, but may leave a lot of people wondering "who is that tattooed guy wearing the pilot watch?" Or maybe I am just living under a rock. What do you think of his "cafe racer" style hair cut and wardrobe? It actually doesn't matter... Breitling is fortunate enough to not need David's help in the US. I've done some little polls here and there and continue to learn that people in the US who have some appreciation of nice things but know nothing about watches do happen to know Breitling, and have a positive association with it.

The styling of the new Breitling Transocean Unitime might not be for everyone, but it is a solid (and arguably needed) addition to brand's lineup. That it has an in-house movement and formidable retro looks will only add to its appeal among Breitling's most elite fan base. My choice is the 18k red gold version with the black dial, which of course is probably the most expensive. In steel the Breitling Transocean Unitime retails for $11,200.

Breitling Transocean Unitime Watch Hands On   breitling

Breitling Transocean Unitime Watch Hands On   breitling

Tech specs from Breitling:

•Manufacture Breitling Caliber 05 Movement
•Chronometer-certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute (COSC)
•Self-winding movement
•1/4th Second Chronograph
•30-minute and 12-hour totalizers
•Universal time.
•Calendar
•Glare proofed on both sides
•Diameter: 46 mm
•Water resistant to 100 meters
•High-frequency (28,000 vibrations per hour)
•56 Jewels
•Over 70-hour power reserve
•Convex sapphire crystal
•Case: Steel or 18k red gold
•Dials: Black or Polar White

About Ariel Adams

Owner & Editor-In-Chief of aBlogtoWatch (formerly known as aBlogtoRead.com) - the world's largest and most popular wrist watch blog. Ariel Adams also regularly contributes to other important media such as Forbes, Departures, Centurion, Tech Crunch, and more.

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15 comments
ZL
ZL

Just wish it were offered in a more "reasonable" size, cause it looks pretty cool otherwise. Really not a fan of these huge watches. One comment below uses the phrase "sophisticated elegance" about Breitling but it's hard for me to see that in such an ostentatious appendage. I met a dude wearing a gigantic Breitling and a three-piece suite the other day in a bar. It looked ridiculous. Better left to hip hop artists to match their giant dollar-sign necklaces - or just hang a Breitling directly from their necks, for that matter. All that said, it's a nice looking watch :)

MarkCarson
MarkCarson

I don't think it is horrible. A bit too large for my wrist I suspect. I like the look better rose gold (either dial) than either dial in the steel case. Not that that helps with the price pain.

I agree that daylight saving time is a mess that should be eliminated. For one thing, it is very hard (impossible ???) to do correctly on a mechanical watch as some places (like where I live) do not observe daylight time and in the southern hemisphere those that are burdened with it  observe it the opposite months from the northern hemisphere. Complicating that is that various places go on/off daylight time on different dates, plus the date varies each year even for the same locations.

As example of what looks cool but is functionally worthless IMO (because you can't trust it to be right) is the Glashutte Original’s Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon. Reviewed over on ProfssionalWatches a while back:
http://professionalwatches.com/2012/10/introducing_the_grande_cosmopo.html

 I'm all in favor of  GMT/dual time watches and even world timers, but you can't trust the daylight time on them at a glance. (end of rant)

MarkCarson
MarkCarson

I don't think it is horrible. A bit too large for my wrist I suspect. I like the look better rose gold (either dial) than either dial in the steel case. Not that that helps with the price pain. I agree that daylight saving time is a mess that should be eliminated. For one thing, it is very hard (impossible ???) to do correctly on a mechanical watch as some places (like where I live) do not observe daylight time and in the southern hemisphere those that are burdened with it  observe it the opposite months from the northern hemisphere. Complicating that is that various places go on/off daylight time on different dates, plus the date varies each year even for the same locations. As example of what looks cool but is functionally worthless IMO (because you can't trust it to be right) is the Glashutte Original’s Grande Cosmopolite Tourbillon. Reviewed over on ProfssionalWatches a while back: http://professionalwatches.com/2012/10/introducing_the_grande_cosmopo.html  I'm all in favor of  GMT/dual time watches and even world timers, but you can't trust the daylight time on them at a glance. (end of rant)

antjay
antjay

I think Mr Beckham has enough money allready. The thought that even one cent of my hard earned should find it's way into his pocket, no matter how indirectly,is so offencive to me that i could never buy a Breitling.

Zeitblom
Zeitblom

I really really cannot understand celebrity endorsements of watches. Does anyone really buy this watch thinking, "wow, now everyone will think that I am just like someone with a squeaky voice who used to play soccer really well!" Do women buy Tags thinking, "gee, now everyone will think that I am a bad actress who looks a lot older than her real age!"?

Jamboree
Jamboree

Since you pose the question, here is the answer. Yes, you have been living under a rock. There isn't a brand in the world that wouldn't kill for the Beckham endorsement for anything. Fine watch too. Aesthetically satisfying, strong wrist presence, clear Breitling DNA. I wouldn't buy it because it's too big for my wrist and I'm English so I'm sick of the Beckham brand but it's a job well done by the Breitling team, no question.

Gee Z
Gee Z

I like the classic appeal, but I think the size is too big for that, and they picked the wrong ambassador for this kind of watch. Beckham fits to the other, more in-your-face watches from Breitling. At least they have a more classy alternative now to the Navitimer...

antjay
antjay like.author.displayName 1 Like

I didn't David could tell the time.

Ryan B
Ryan B

everything about this watch is a disaster

daottaway
daottaway

@Ryan B 

All Brietlings are cool, but I really don't care for the "city listing" around the dial.

I would rather it have been "CITY STERIL"

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Ulysses31
Ulysses31 like.author.displayName 1 Like

This type of world time watch (with the cities around the circumference) causes the dial to be squashed and overall has a cluttered look.  This could be said for similar watches from any other manufacturer though.  The sky blue globe in the centre doesn't coordinate well with the rest, especially the black and gold model.  

David Beckham as brand ambassador is amusing.  A brainless footballer covered in ugly tattoos doesn't conjure up for me an image of sophisticated elegance that I believe Breitling is going for.  Clearly the only qualification needed is a ton of cash.  Who's next?  Will-I-Am?

ZL
ZL

@Ulysses31 I think a giant watch like that goes perfectly with a bunch of tattoos ;)

Kris C
Kris C

Nah. I really want to like it, but can't lie, and I don't enjoy this one. Maybe its just a combination of everything, but several elements look like they were rushed. Especially the strap fitment to the lugs: far from suited and completely lacks refinement, which is saying something for Breitling. The dial looks too pushed into the middle, and I do understand this is a general concern with traveller-type watches that have this type of layout, but it appears even more exaggerated here.

Again, I do really want to like this, the idea of it really appeals to me, but its missed my mark and I'm passing. Shame.

Ayreonaut
Ayreonaut

Love the white dial on leather strap.  One of Breitling's best.

daottaway
daottaway

Very cool, a watch to be noticed.