De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon ‘Kind Of Blue’ Watch

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon ‘Kind Of Blue’ Watch

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

De Bethune is just about 14 years old, which in watchmaking terms amongst old names makes it no more than a young upstart. That said, this young upstart has already made a name for itself by producing some of the most striking and technically interesting watches of modern times, perhaps due to being unencumbered by the weight of tradition. And one of the most captivating watches that De Bethune has produced is the extremely rare DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” watch that we had the chance to get up close with recently.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

Amongst De Bethune’s collection, the DB28 collection is possibly the most iconic and recognizable. The unique case design along with the distinctive and unorthodox dials combine to make watches from the DB28 collection unlike any other. Granted, this is probably why one of the watches from this line ended up on our top watches inspired by Star Trek. It's not often that a brand can pull off sci-fi cool and high end luxury at the same time, but somehow De Bethune pulls it off.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

Notable is the use of titanium, particularly when it is  heated and treated titanium. We have seen such applications in other watches such as the DB28 Sky Bridge and its fabulous heated and polished titanium dial. This DB28T Tourbillon "Kind of Blue" watch takes the blue to the next level (obviously) and it manages to have such a depth to the color without looking boring or monotone.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

Essentially, the De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” watch, which was announced earlier this year, can be thought of as a piece that showcases all of the brand’s expertise in manipulating and using titanium. It is, of course, based on the regular DB28T Tourbillon watch, if we can call any De Bethune watch “regular." Another thing to note is that the bluing and polishing of titanium is all done by hand, so I hope you can appreciate the amount of handwork that has gone into this special watch here.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

Case dimension for the new DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” has been unchanged and remains at 42.6mm wide and 9.2mm thick. On paper, it sounds like a modestly-sized watch, but its unique floating lugs means it wears larger than it sounds. But more on this later, the stunning thing about this case is that it is made using blued and mirror polished grade 5 titanium. It is not only ridiculously light on the wrist, but the blued heat treatment also means that it looks really special. It is a blue hue that is iridescent and unlike any other that I have seen on a watch. At some angles it takes on a rich dark hue of blue; and at others, it takes on a lighter shade and becomes blindingly bright. The use of blued, mirror polish titanium is the star of this watch and makes the watch really striking and imparts it a whole lot of wrist presence.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

Wearing comfort is good, because as I mentioned, it is really light, but also because of the floating lugs. The lugs are a De Bethune hallmark and are actually spring-loaded so that they move to conform to the contours of your wrist. Coupled with the comfy alligator strap, the DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” feels almost like a second skin.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

But just as important as the case is the dial, which also has numerous components featuring blued and mirror-polished titanium. The hours ring is blued titanium and features hour indexes made out of pink gold. Inside, there’s a smaller minutes ring that is also crafted out of blued titanium and satin-finished. Dominating the dial is the visible bridge cover, which is also blued and mirror-polished grade 5 titanium, and if you look closer, you will see encrusted stars made out of white gold. To add a bit of contrast and to improve legibility, the skeletonized hands are made out of pink gold. And at 6 o’clock, you will find the high-frequency tourbillon that made so many watch lovers and collectors fall in love with the original DB28T.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

The DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” watch has a screwed in sapphire case back in polished pink gold, revealing the caliber DB2019 within that powers the watch. The caliber DB2019 is made up of 298 components and features a mix of stainless steel and grade 5 titanium components that are all painstaking blued by hand. Power reserve is 5 days long, and there’s a power reserve indicator with pink gold hands that indicate to owners how much reserve is left in the twin mainspring barrels.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

Caliber DB2019 is also notable for its high-frequency fast-spinning tourbillon. The movement beats at 5Hz and the tourbillon makes a full rotation every 30 seconds. Considering most tourbillons beat at just 3Hz, this makes the tourbillon in the DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” a sight to behold. De Bethune also says this tourbillon is the lightest in the world, weighing just 0.20 grams, thanks to the use of titanium and silicon.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

As I mentioned earlier, the DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” can be best thought of as a showpiece of De Bethune’s expertise in titanium. The end result is nothing short of stunning as the DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” is a visually-arresting watch. This is also the kind of watchmaking that I like to see from the smaller independent watchmakers - watches that are different, thoughtful, technically exciting, and aesthetically stimulating. If you love the color blue, I cannot think of a more suitable watch to recommend.

De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon 'Kind Of Blue' Watch Hands-On

The only problem is that production of the De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” will be extremely limited, due in part to the amount of effort needed to finish and craft all the blued titanium and stainless components. Just five pieces will be made this year. The De Bethune DB28T Tourbillon “Kind of Blue” is priced at $250,000debethune.ch

  • Photos can not do justice to the richness and depth of the blue that DeBethune is able a achieve in both steel and titianium. As Kenny noted, the articulated lugs make DB watches effortless conform to your wrist. Like feather weight spider legs – no wait, that doesn’t sound all that great. But they do work very well and make the watch a comfortable fit.

    A pet peeve of mine it the hokey representation of the moon on certain phases in most moon phase watches. As a notable exception there id DeBethune which with is spherical representation is a faithful (depending on your viewing angle) depiction of the moon.

    Sure they are not cheap and polarizing watches, but De Bethune watches are surprisingly cool in person. Having not seen this watch in person, like anyone one else, I have to wonder if the blue is over the top in this reference. But based on their previous execution of blued titanium, I suspect it will be gorgeous even if not for the faint of heart.

    • Hey Mark, you mention the moonphase complication. There are two different DeBethunes in this article, right? One with moonphase and one without?

      • And one with stars on the dial and the other with the moon phase. OMG – they have actually made 2 out of the 5 watches already!

        • SuperStrapper

          And does the one with a moonphase NOT have a tourbillion? It looks like an enclosed balance?

          • Good catch – Sure looks that way (no tourbillon) – note that the hair spring is always in the same position, so this escapement would appear to not spin.

    • Gokart Mozart

      I agree, you really have to see them in the metal to appreciate how stunning they are. They are amazingly well finished but totally modern and have great detailing like the runs..

      Have played with a few of them and they are like no other watch. One of the things I love on the automatic’s are how well the rotor goes round and round. Sounds stupid I know, but how responsive and quick it spins is amazing.

      I agree the blues that they can achieve, and when the light hits can be stunning.

  • The Victorious Boogur T. Wang

    Well, if Mr. Yeo and Mr. Carson like it….

  • Marius

    If you have $250,000 to burn, and if you like the colour blue, and if you like Star Trek, why not buy a blue Lamborghini Huracan or a blue Aston Martin Vanquish. Besides the fact that these two motors really look like Star Trek, they are also much more fun than this watch. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/3b61c8f414706fc20d421b2beb6519777d1fd268050fcfab9beb5fc7338fdf11.jpg https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/2472067ff5c1f2227f4d50c14351f3e02f71bac4bdfd6778d254572905b7f92a.jpg

  • WINKS

    These are two different watches? One with a sphere at 6, one without…

    • I was wondering that too. Not a word about it.

      • WINKS

        Aaah… the dangers of doing a review by numbers.

    • You can’t give her “the moon and stars” – you have to pick one or the other it seems. Note that the watch with the moon sphere does not have the “stars” on the Star Trek emblem portion of the dial.

    • SuperStrapper

      Agree, I keep wondering if I’m missing a note about 2 seperate references, but no. One has gold hands and the other blued Ti as well.

  • Berndt Norten

    Kind of TOO blue
    Miles smiles not;
    Says sink like stone
    In Blue Bayou

    • Sheez Gagoo

      Saving nickels, saving dimes….

    • DanW94

      It’s mesmerizing, then I saw the price and it left me behind blue eyes…..No blue collar man will be able to afford that. Maybe I can find a rich widow and work a little crystal blue persuasion on her…..

      • When you think you’re alone now, when there doesn’t seem to be anyone around, give her the ol’ crimson and clover.

        • Berndt Norten

          over and over…

        • Gokart Mozart

          Is it Tiffany, “I think we are alone now”

          • DanW94

            Teeny bopper Tiffany redid it in the 80’s. Original was Tommy James and Shondells in the 60’s….

          • Actually, The Donkey Limes came out with the song first, then Tiffany, then Tommy James and the Shondells.

      • Berndt Norten

        no one knows what it’s like…

      • Berndt Norten

        or a green eyed lady…

      • Berndt Norten

        If u work 9 to 5 u can keep your hope alive….

  • A stunning execution of craftsmanship which, in the extremely unlikely event I could someday afford it, I’d never, ever wear.

  • SuperStrapper

    Absolutely stunning. Great pictures. This is just one of those pieces that the entire watch community should simply be glad exists, and if not I would suggest that you just don’t actually understand or truly appreciate haute horology.

  • ??????

    Watch craftsmanship to the extreme, this “watch” looks like made on Mars, not on Earth. I think that DeBethune created a benchmark of watchmaking creativity and in less than 14 years. No word on the price.

  • Sheez Gagoo

    Blue is the new skull.

  • IG

    Seems like they grew up on this video at De Bethune.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=68ugkg9RePc

    • BNABOD

      certainly do remember this crappy song

    • DanW94

      WTF was that!?

  • BNABOD

    whoa Starfleet here we come. 250Gs is plenty of mulla but then if you can why not. If one already has the Huracan this would match nicely. The effort to blue that thing is amazing. really like the power indicator in the back.

  • Unless you’re going to wear this naked, in a padded room, I’m guessing the inevitable scratches, which I assume will stand out dramatically, are irreparable?

    • Isn’t that how and where everyone wears quarter million dollar watches?

      • Lincolnshire Poacher

        That’s why I like heavy watches. You’re always somewhat aware of them. This looks so light, you’d forget you had it on; and Crack, one very expensive watch and foreign object collision.
        That’s not to say that it isn’t an awesome bit of horology.

  • In the first picture the right side of the dial looks dented.

  • Larry Holmack

    Looks like a watch Lt. Worf might have worn on Star Trek: The Next Generation….

  • mtnsicl

    It’s just a blue blob, totally devoid of any class or sophistication! And they want you to pay 250k for it. No thanks, I’d rather buy another classic sports car or five.

  • Shawn Lavigne

    where would one encounter this in the wild? not in my lifetime.

  • Lincolnshire Poacher

    It may be SCI-FI influenced. But “Kind Of Blue” is originally an Album by that musical legend Miles Davis.

  • Yanko

    This blue is a cheap vegetable pigment offensive to the eye.

  • Juan-Antonio Garcia

    When one is done wearing a Hammer Tone Mr G in the desert, its time to strap this beauty for formal palace meetings. “Boom, pass me the Rolls catalog, its time to order a blue one that matches this DB28T, pronto”.

  • Ulysses31

    The blue shade is gorgeous but makes the watch look like a cheap plastic toy. The buckle is… just dumb. It should come with a protective clear silicone rubber case.

  • daveyah2002

    “Kind of Blue”. For 250k I think they should get off the fence.
    Nice design but needs someone with a larger wrist to display it.