F.P. Journe Quantieme Perpetuel Watch Exclusive Look

F.P. Journe Quantieme Perpetuel Watch Exclusive Look

F.P. Journe Quantieme Perpetuel Watch Exclusive Look   watch releases

I am just a few miles right now from the F.P. Journe manufacture here in Geneva. Earlier tonight, I saw Francois-Paul and said hello. He doesn't speak much English, but that doesn't stop me from understanding his watches completely. With under 1000 watches made each year, F.P. Journe is not only a boutique watch brand, but a watch brand's watch brand. What I mean by this is that his timepieces are coveted by normal customers as well as watchmakers alike. He has a pretty good thing going right now. If you like watches then you probably like his watches.

Seemingly more popular now than ever, are perpetual calendar watches. That makes sense because while complicated, the perpetual calendar is an inherently useful complication. Unlike say a tourbillon or minute repeater, you can rely on accurate calendar data and enjoy not having to correct it. F.P. Journe is no stranger to the "quantieme perpetuel" (perpetual calendar), but this new model might be his most beautiful perpetual calendar watch yet.

F.P. Journe Quantieme Perpetuel Watch Exclusive Look   watch releases

Simply named the "Quantieme Perpetuel," this model replaces the Octa Calandrier model as the basic perpetual calender watch. It is effortlessly elegant and wastes no space on the dial. Nevertheless, it is simple, uncluttered, and a fully useful calendar in the style of many traditional calendar watches. While many FP Journe watches are all about dials and hands, this is about discs and windows. The day, date, and month are all shown on discs. The result is a beautifully symmetrical and quite legible high-complication timepiece. The dial also has a power reserve indicator, but it does lack a subsidiary seconds hand.

All this is thanks to the FP Journe produced and designed caliber FPJ 1300.3 (1300-3) automatic movement. It uses the same base mechanism as a few other of their timepieces but as this wonderfully laid out perpetual calendar as well. Not that similar to the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual One watch, the leap year indicator is a very small central hand that points to one of four positions. I further like that on this model the main time uses the entire dial versus a smaller one.

F.P. Journe Quantieme Perpetuel Watch Exclusive Look   watch releases

F.P. Journe watches are still done in 18k gold, and I am referring to the movements not just the cases. Few brands have mechanical movements with golden bridges like this. The movement is an automatic with 120 hours of power reserve. Love that decorated gold rotor... The rotor is also designed in a way that the slightest movement of the hand will wind the movement. That makes it quite sensitive. A power reserve indicator on the dial is a characteristic Journe touch.

Similar to other offerings, F.P. Journe will offer the Quantieme Perpetual in two sizes and two materials. The watch will come in either a 42mm or 40mm wide case in either platinum or 18k rose gold. It is legible, classic, original, and smoothly complicated. Just a great piece that should be a hit. Also setting the perpetual calendar is more simple with everything being done through the crown as well as the option of quick adjustors for the month on the case. I look forward to getting some hands-on time with an F.P Journe Quantieme Perpetuel soon. fpjourne.com

F.P. Journe Quantieme Perpetuel Watch Exclusive Look   watch releases

Technical Specifications - QUANTIÈME PERPÉTUEL

Movement: Automatic Calibre FPJ 1300-3 in 18K rose Gold (4N)
Off-centre 22K Gold guilloché winding rotor
Unidirectional automatic winding

Dimensions of the movement: Overall diameter: 33.00 mm
Casing-up diameter: 30.40 mm
Overall height: 5.20 mm
Height of winding stem: 1.80 mm
Diameter of stem thread: S0.90mm

Balance: Linear escapement 15 tooth
Chronometric balance with inertia weight
Anachron free-sprung flat balance spring
Mobile stud holder
Free sprung
Nivatronic laser soldered balance spring
Pinned GE stud
Three-position winding stem
Barrel with slipping spring
Frequency: 21,600 Alt/h, 3 Hz
Inertia 10.10 mgcm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 0 hr dial up: > 300°
24 hr dial up: > 220°
Autonomy: 160+/- 12 hours

Indications: Central hours and minutes / indication of leap year with centred small hand, 1, 2, 3, in black; 4 for the leap year in red / day and month at 12 o'clock in 2 apertures / large date at 6 o'clock in double aperture / power reserve at 9 o'clock.

Decoration: Circular graining on 18K Gold baseplate
Circular Côtes de Genève on 18K Gold bridges
Polished screw heads with chamfered slots
Pegs with polished rounded ends
Steel components hand polished and chamfered

Main characteristics: Perpetual calendar with instantaneous jump. Unidirectional automatic winding. Simultaneous correction of the date and day in one direction, rotation of the day only in the other direction in position 2 of the winding stem. Discreet and secure corrector in the lug of the watchcase for correction of the month and leap year.

Dial: Red or white Gold
Silver chapter ring
Steel mounting fixing the centre of the dial

Case: Platinum or 18K red Gold
Diameter 40 or 42 mm.
Height 10.8 mm

Number of parts: Movement without dial 348
Cased up with strap xxx
Jewels 37

Winding speed: 274 anti-clockwise rotations per 24 hours

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10 comments
Ulysses31
Ulysses31

I can't remember what I wrote any more :(.  I like it, why does it only have unidirectional winding, blah blah blah.

David B
David B

Destined to be a classic with all that complication and precious metal. The dial has a beautiful French flowery look to it I like. Although in the pictures the crown looks a bit small to get a good grip on.

Alex B
Alex B

My question is does the first window for the day hold a zero, or is it just blank like the Lange Datograph? Otherwise a fantastic piece, certainly top of the charts in my pipe dream category of watches.

EricA
EricA

Wow! Very nice. The center cutout is oval and they made the outer numbers sized around the oval. Has a hint of the Lange teutonic aesthetic but is warmer and less clinical. Everything is so nicely balanced (the power reserve @ 9 vs. the FP Journe lettering @ 3). And of course, the level of craftmanship is top notch.

Ryan B
Ryan B

Simple, not cluttered, a definite win.

kris c
kris c

Lots of want here. When I was first introduced to PFJ, I was unsure, but they've continually won me over: with basic releases, high complications, and collabs (Opus, etc). I'm now a total fan and rank this brand among the truly elite.

Ulysses
Ulysses

120 hours of PR is impressive. Is there some technical reason why the rotor only winds one way? I thought most movements wound in both directions by now since it's clearly more efficient. Crown looks a little small. Agree about the slightly plain dial, not what i'm used to from them. I don't care though, it's an FPJ. I want it.

Mark Carson
Mark Carson

The center section of the dial looks a bit plain. Perhaps if it was done with a nice guilloche like the rotor it would look better. I love looking at the golden movement through the case back and I appreciate that the day, date and month are on disks (which are easier to read) rather than small hands pointing to tiny numbers and words.

nateb123
nateb123

@Ulysses31

Simplicity of the gear system means less wear and less chance of failure.  Finger pawls or multiple click wheels means they need to be replaced after a few decades which isn't good enough for a lot of the higher-end manufacturers.  Piager, Patek, GP, AP and FP Journe all have a habit of staying away from bidirectional winding.


As for the watch itself, FP Journe seems to be on a streak at the moment.  I used to hate his old stuff (all the S pieces were awful and many of the early dials were horribly unbalanced and awkward-looking.  Now he seems to have sorted that out to great success though.  Great balance on this watch.