Glashutte Original PanoMaticInverse Automatic Watch

Glashutte Original PanoMaticInverse Automatic Watch

Glashutte Original PanoMaticInverse Automatic Watch   watch releases

For 2014 Glashutte Original will finally release a new version of the famed PanoInverse XL from 2008 called the PanoMaticInverse. The concept today is the same as it was in 2008, and is one that has been followed by other brands such as Arnold & Son with their TB88. The "inverse" part of the PanoMaticInverse name refers to the fact that the dial of the watch is meant to look like what is normally the rear of the watch - with typical Cotes de Geneve finishing as well as the balance wheel.

It makes for an interesting hybrid design as the dial is a mixture of elements you'd normally find on a timepiece dial as well as the look of a movement. To do this Glashutte Original needed to develop an entirely new family of movements which is continued in the new Calibre 91-02. Unlike the manually wound movement in the original PanoInverse, the 91-02 is an automatic - hence being part of the "PanoMatic" collection.

Glashutte Original PanoMaticInverse Automatic Watch   watch releases

Glashutte Original PanoMaticInverse Automatic Watch   watch releases

At 42mm wide, this is a "full size" Glashutte Original "Pano" watch that has been scaled down to 40mm wide for some models, though I tend to prefer it in the 42mm wide case. The movement has a power reserve of 42 hours and includes an off-centered display for the time and seconds, as well as a "panorama date" display, which is what Glashutte Original calls their big date windows. The previous PanoInverse watch used this space for a power reserve indicator. The inclusion of a date window is much appreciated, but something makes me feel as though the transition from dial to window is a bit harsh - as though some type of window  or beveled edges might have been nice.

The dial comes complete with blued steel screws and rubies making it very much appear to be part of the movement. I have a feeling that these elements aren't merely decorative, though it would not surprise me if some of them were. Of course, the entire point of the watch is the dial-mounted balance wheel and escapement assembly. They are produced in full Glasshute Original fashion with a double swan-neck fine adjustment system as well as hand-engraved balance cocks. Very nicely done and a pleasure to look at.

Glashutte Original PanoMaticInverse Automatic Watch   watch releases

Glashutte Original PanoMaticInverse Automatic Watch   watch releases

On the rear of the PanoMaticInverse is another sapphire crystal with a view of the automatic rotor, which has that lovely Glashutte Original logo and 21k gold weight. Finishing on the movement is very much the same as the dial, so there is a nice seamless look between the two that many will appreciate.

For 2014 there will be two versions of the Glashutte Original PanoMaticInverse. The most luxurious model will come in an 18k red gold case while Glasshute Original will also offer a version in steel (thankfully). Anticipated prices are between $15,000 - $28,000. glashuette-original.com

12 comments
trj66
trj66

The brown strap is the most beautiful incarnation of a dead animal attached to a watch I've ever seen - wauw! The rest of the design is so-so (but the craftmanship is top-notch)

Ulysses31
Ulysses31

The indices are shiny, ugly plastic-looking things, like sequins or little glass beads from a cheap necklace.  Various colours thrown on the dial make it look worse.  This has all the elements of an attractive watch but arranged in a way that is unsophisticated.  The only nice part is the escapement area.  The GO logo on the rotor is hideous; it's tacky, chunky and excessive - perfect for an expensive yet trashy designer hand bag but not a classy watch.  Put this next to an AL&S and compare the vibe you get from the two watches - the difference should be obvious.

EranR
EranR

This is the ultimate Man-Jewelry. If this dial is like the previous generation of Pano Inverse, then it should even be more beautiful in real life. Glashutte Original seem to be perfercting their own works of art, consistently, in recent few years.

Fraser Petrick
Fraser Petrick

A beautiful piece of jewelry; but the time-telling  display seems to be only 20% of the surface, as if it were an after-thought attachment. (I do like the large date window; many of my watches have date windows so tiny I have to haul out my magnifying glass: very uncool, eliciting as it does "Dear old fella" from my Cayman Island and Swiss friends.

Ayreonaut
Ayreonaut

The previous version of the PanoInverse XL in was available in steel with an anthracite dial.  The addition of this in steel with a rhodium dial is welcome.  The addition of their big date function seems welcome at first, but doing it through a hole in the bottom plate does seems weird.  The concept of the no dial watch is compromised and I begin to wonder if it would be better with a 3/4 dial.  Still, it looks less like a Lange 1 homage than others in the collection which is a very good thing.


The addition of the Automatic rotor is NOT welcome.  The PanoInverse and PanoReserve were the only two steel hand-wound watches in the collection.

SuperStrapper
SuperStrapper

The watch is beautiful, and everyone is going to come steaming in to say why, so i'll just wax frustrated on a little niggle of mine for almost all brands:


When a watch is released with both a white and yellow/rose color case, you always see the white case on a black strap, and the yellow/rose case on brown. It works, but it also works the other way around, and you never see that. In the case of this watch, the brown strap on the pink gold case is magnificent; matte, maybe even slightly sueded alligator, rolled edges that have that sturdy squared look (looking at where the strap attached to the lugs, I have developed a nicer way of rolling edges, but it's not applicable for massed-produced). Then I look at the white metal case, and I see an oh-so-standard gloss black gator strap with centre padding and pinch stitching and rounded edges - a strap that wanders out of vanilla town in droves. 


I get it - watch nerds are rare birds, and then strap nerds are an even less common subset within the niche, but c'mon. This is a Glashutte brand that is always lauded for attention to detail blah blah blah, if they had even just developed the same damn style for the black strap as the brown one it would be much more impressive - suede it out a bit, and construct it with a bit of personality. They are probably both catalogue straps, but at least the brown one os trying - that black one is on the cover of the catalogue, and they never run out of them because every brand orders them - there is a million of them on the shelf at any one time. 


Put the brown strap on the white case and it would turn into a billboard that reads: WIN. 

electrominds
electrominds

@trj66  why do u have to mention the dead animal part...can't we just admire the beautiful shape of the watch? plz?

Sevenmack
Sevenmack

@Kris C Agreed. I can imagine something akin to Hirsch's Rivetta strap or the Vivola strap sold by Panatime adorning this Glashutte. I have both straps in my collection for two of my watches, and both straps set off the watches nicely. It would be nice if other brands, regardless of price category, approached their straps with the same attention to detail that they do with the dials and movements. Certainly, this would be approaching what we watch enthusiasts call fashion watchmaking. But watches are as much fashion and style items as they are mechanical jewelry.

Ayreonaut
Ayreonaut

@Kris C  Yes, a brown strap looks great with gold markers on a silver dial.

MarkCarson
MarkCarson

@electrominds @trj66That's right. There is plenty of time to admire dead animal when its sizzling on your plate beside the taters.

SuperStrapper
SuperStrapper

@Ayreonaut Completely agree, but what I am suggesting is that it would also look stellar against the blued markers on the steel dial, and those jewel accents this watch have.