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H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch

H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

Now this is the type of timepiece I expect from Switzerland-based H. Moser & Cie., and not futile attempts to play with (or play against) the smartwatch market. For the celebration of the brand’s 10-year anniversary, H. Moser & Cie produced this Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition that has been inspired by a pocket watch from the late 19th Century. H. Moser & Cie. connects what is probably its most admirable model with a very beautiful nod to the past.

At its heart, the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition watch is the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch that I reviewed here. This very clever minimalist perpetual calendar indicates the month, date, and time on the dial, along with a handy power reserve indicator for the manually wound movement. To fully set the perpetual calendar complication, a leap year indicator is placed on the rear of the movement (because you don’t need to see that very often, and it works much better there).

H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

The in-house-made H. Moser & Cie caliber HMC 341 movement operates at 2.5Hz, or 18,000 bph, which is a bit on the steady side, and has a long power reserve of seven days across two mainspring barrels. The movement is fully hand-finished, and I really like how the bridges are produced from 18k gold. Other important movement features include an easy-to-replace Moser escapement (for service needs) as well as a double hairspring (here, as the “Original Straumann Double Hairpring”). In this watch, we also see diamonds being used as the palette jewels for the balance wheel.

I should note that elements such as the gold bridges and diamond end-stones are unique to the HMC 341 movement in the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition watch – as the HMC 341 in the “standard” versions of the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar watch do not have these features.

H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

For the dial, the brand goes really retro (in a good way) for the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage being directly inspired by 19th century enamel pocket watch dials. Here, we have a lovely white-color grand feu enamel dial with actual hand-painted black Roman numeral hour markers (I personally get a kick out of that). The black “dovetail-shaped” hands offer supreme legibility against the white dial. My hope is that H. Moser & Cie considered using a version of this dial for other future versions of the Perpetual Calendar watch.

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Of course, what you’ve been noticing this entire time is the double hunter-style case that opens both on the front and rear. The brand needed to increase the size of the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition watch (in comparison to the Endeavour version) to 46mm wide, and they produced it in 18k red gold.

H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

Even with the hinged top and back, the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition is still only 13.6mm thick, which isn’t too bad. With that said, in order to view the time, you’ll need to operate the pusher in the crown in order to release the crown cover to view the watch dial. The entire case is further distinct from other Perpetual Calendar watches in the H. Moser & Cie. collection, notably, with the hinged wire-style lugs.

As you can see from the included images of the late 19th century H. Moser & Cie pocket watch, the decoration on the case cover, sides, and back is directly inspired by this earlier horological item. It would probably be safe to say that H. Moser & Cie did their best to directly replicate this luxurious and decorated pocket watch in wrist watch form. The majority of the decoration is cloisonne enamel, which begins with guilloche machine or hand-engraved gold, and is then painted with a layer of blue enamel. The composition is then baked so that it remains permanent.

H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition Watch Watch Releases

In addition to the cloisonne enamel work, the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition replicates the pocket watch’s diamond setting (28 stones) on the top of the case lid as well. Some might see this aesthetic as a bit feminine, but for the right wearer, this entire composition looks pretty amazing and genuinely “old world.” Attached to the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition watch is a lovely deep red-colored alligator strap.

Even though “Limited Edition” is technically part of the name of this watch, H. Moser & Cie has not yet communicated how many pieces will be in this limited edition. That is often because it depends on how many orders they get. Timepieces such as this are often too expensive to produce in a series without orders. So whether or not you want to refer to this watch as a limited edition or limited production, it will undeniably be rare and exclusive. The brand has designated the H. Moser & Cie Perpetual Calendar Heritage Limited Edition as the reference 8341-0400 and the price is $250,000 USD. h-moser.com

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Comments

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  • Chaz

    Lovely piece but is the date window really that rough on the edges? Prototype flaw, perhaps?

  • Lovely piece. Not sure I’d even wear it. But it would be cool just to own it (as I can’t think of what I could possibly wear it with). Now if I were a 19th century monarch, I would no doubt have the proper regalia to go with this watch but alas that’s not me.

    • Mark Baran

      Mark, you are selling yourself short. I think it would look great with a tank top and swim trunks, hanging your wrist out the window, cruising in your M-Car down some Hawaiian boulevard. 🙂

      • Maybe you are right – just the thing to impress the minimum wage earners at the Jack In the Box drive thru window.

        • Mark Baran

          See, now you are thinking about the watch in a proper context.

  • Julian Chan

    This watch is superbly beautiful on its own without the pocket watch gimmick. I think they should sell it on its own without that girly pocket watch front. Love how subtle the power reserve and calendar is.

  • PleaseSpellRoman4AsIV

    An interesting take, but I like the Minimalist version much better. Obviously this is for a completely different audience.

    I also see this will again sparkle the debate around limited editions – and rightly so. For me this is not a proper limited edition, more like a marketing gimmick.

    Anyways, thumbs up for properly spelling IV on the dial.

    • Right on – I use “IV” (not IIII) on my watches which have roman numerals too.

      • wallydog2

        Next to pluralizing a noun with an apostrophe s, I hate “IIII” the most…I mean, more.
        Enywayz, its “IV”…I mean it’s. I know ’cause I was born in Colchester, which is/was a Roman town in England somwherz.

        • Raymond Wilkie

          i’ve never seen IIII but i have been to Colchester. .

          • wallydog2

            What’s it like, Colchester, I mean? I left at age 10 months with my war bride mother for Canada in 1944.

          • Raymond Wilkie

            Practically the whole certre is now a sight of historical interest so i doubt much of the look of the main city has changed much. Just the shops. The clock tower is still there ( built 1895 and grade 1 ) so its not going anywhere anytime soon. a lovely place to stroll around on a nice day.

        • PleaseSpellRoman4AsIV

          Compared to the fake stories of some new brands you have an actual watchmaking heritage here. 🙂

      • PleaseSpellRoman4AsIV

        Because you are a proper watchmaker and know what people want. 😉

        • I_G

          LOL so Philippe Dufour or Speake-Marin are not “proper” watchmakers? Plonker

          • PleaseSpellRoman4AsIV

            Yeah, I tried to convince him, but then Roger Smith dropped in, and he said that if IIII on his GREAT Britain is good enough for Cameron then I should shut my pie hole.

            I guess you can guess what happened afterwards: We woke up next morning with hangovers in a hotel room; Roger was wearing a
            Richard Mille RM 07-02 Pink Lady Sapphire Automatic Watch, I was wearing a Rolex Leopard Daytona and Philippe Dufour had a tattoo, that I dare not describe…

  • word-merchant

    Apart from being mechanical, this is exactly what the forthcoming Apple Watch 2 will look like. Apple must be furious!

  • DanW94

    Beautiful, on both the dial and movement side, but that ornate case cover makes me cringe.

  • wallydog2

    Love the watch. Hate the Faberge Egg wannabe lid.

  • Sevenmack

    Holy Faberge! The enamel dial and front case. The Roman numerals. Sumptuous and lovely. If not for the gold, it would be the bee’s knees.

  • Shinytoys

    A superfine, ultra exquisite breath of fresh air. ..

  • Michael Kinney

    i don’t think I could pull it off, but…wow.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    i would love to touch it and put it up to my ear to hear it. Its exquisite , sorry if that sounds a bit pervy, its not meant to be.

  • Richard Baptist

    This is amazing but I think I would be too afraid to wear it. Can you imagine scratching that finish?

  • ????????? ??????

    I would like to experience that watch?