Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine Watch

Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine Watch

Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine Watch Watch Releases

For 2017, French high fashion and luxury goods manufacturer Hermès introduces a platinum version of its perpetual calendar watch, the Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine. The brand released an earlier rose gold model, so while we are not talking about an outright novelty, it is a chance to discuss a watch we have not covered before. It also, once again, inevitably raises the always lively debate regarding fashion brands' legitimacy as watchmakers. But we'll mostly stick to discussing the watch itself.

Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine Watch Watch Releases

To their credit, Hermès is too proud to be content relying on its name recognition to sell only quartz fashion watches, but insists instead on making some distinctive and interesting pieces with specs to satisfy horological snobs. More known for making watch straps than watches, the last product from Hermès we covered was actually the high-end leather bands they made for the Apple Watch. Hermès, in fact, produces high-end watches that are often distinctive for their signature whimsical touch in terms of style and design, and even in terms of mechanics, such as the Le Temps Suspendu watch, as you might recall. The Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine, on the other hand, has a lighthearted and minimalistic look with those playful numerals, but a traditional set of complications and serious horology going on behind the dial.

Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine Watch Watch Releases

The H1950 movement inside was developed by Vaucher for Hermès as an ultra-thin movement for use in the Slim d’Hermès line of watches. It features a micro-rotor for automatic winding, operates at 3Hz (21,600) with a 42-hour power reserve, and has a "sprinkling of Hs" on its hand-beveled plates and bridges. Other more basic watches in the Slim d’Hermès collection also feature the H1950 movement, so the perpetual calendar on the Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine watch comes courtesy of an Agenhor module.

La Montre Hermès S.A. is the company's watchmaking subsidiary based in Bienne, Switzerland, with a financial stake in movement-maker Vaucher. La Montre Hermès also acquired its own case and dial makers to claim fully integrated watch manufacturing capability - right down to the straps, of course. The way the different elements of the Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine watch come together make this is a good picture of how the Swiss watch industry so often works.

Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine Watch Watch Releases
Hermès H1950 movement by Voucher found in the Slim d’Hermès watches.

With a movement only 4mm thick (that's actually 2.6mm plus the 1.4mm module), not to mention residing in the Slim d’Hermès collection, the Hermès Slim d’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine watch is obviously going to be thin. Unfortunately, Hermès doesn't provide the measurement on just how thin, but knowing that the 30m-water-resistant case is a discreet 39.5mm wide (same width as the three-hand Slim d’Hermès models), we can get some sense of its overall dimensions. The brand's images do not include one of the caseback, but we are told that it provides a view of the attractively decorated H1950 movement.

Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine Watch Watch Releases

Aside from the time and perpetual calendar, the Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine watch includes a moon phase indicator (as so many perpetual calendars do) with mother-of-pearl moon against aventurine sky, as well as a second time zone subdial in 12-hour format at 6 o'clock with accompanying day-night indicator window. It's that small, round aperture at the subdial's 12:30. Though I usually prefer to see a running seconds hand, and would also find a day-of-the-week indicator useful on a watch like this, we wouldn't want to clutter things up too much, now would we? If you don't know, a perpetual calendar keeps track of all the quirks of the Gregorian calendar, including varying number of days in a month and even leap years. So as long as you keep the watch running and in good condition, at least theoretically, it will stay accurate for a long time.

Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine Watch Watch Releases

It is too easy for watch enthusiasts to dismiss watches from brands like Hermès as fashion brands and miss out on some otherwise interesting products. These brands should have expertise in design, at the very least, and that is something some established watch makers sometimes could use a little more of. The Hermès Slim D’Hermès Quantième Perpétuel Platine comes on an Abyss blue alligator strap to match the blue dial for a price of €33,500 or US $39,900 (euros obviously being the way to go). hermes.com

What do you think?
  • Interesting (5)
  • I want it! (1)
  • I love it! (1)
  • Thumbs up (0)
  • Classy (0)
  • JesseSifuentes

    The art for the moon and starry sky is the nicest I’ve ever seen in a moon phase. I love the roman numerals, as well. This is a classic.

    • Where are the roman numerals?

      • JesseSifuentes

        You’re right! Slip of the typing finger, I suppose. Arabic, I meant to say. Thanks for the heads up. 🙂

  • Gokart Mozart

    The standout feature on this watch is the moonphase display. Very nice.

    Everyone will probably complain about the numeral font, but I like it. Goes well with the dial finishing.

    Not to keen on the hands especially the subdial hands. They look very cheap and unimaginative. Also the movement decoration makes it look like a well finished Hamilton.

    http://hamiltonwatch.com/lib/uni/img/H-20-S-web.jpg

    • Sevenmack

      The font is incredibly legible, yet stylish, modern, and classic at the same time. Having seen the three hand version of the Slim in metal, I can attest that the font works.

    • Yep, I don’t like the font and I’m with MEddie90 that the movement looks like crud in its current form and finish. Since the “purpose” of a QP is to correctly display the date, this is a miss since the day of the month is not that easy to read. The month is very hard to read and there is no day of the week. And I suspect the lack of specs in this post is because Hermes is not a press friendly brand (how foolish of them).

  • MEddie90

    There’s so much to like about this watch, nice and slim, micro rotor, second time zone, attractive case and dial etc but I just cant get over that hideous movement finishing and the boxy bridge shapes (they remind me of a unitas or similar). Such a shame as I love the unique design of the numerals and the attention to detail is apparent (right down to the finishing of the hands so that one side always appears darker).

    Given the choice i think i’d personally go for the basic mechanical given the option, the perpetual seems well executed (though its missing some of the trimmings) but I feel the more minimalist approach of the white dialed steel version is more appealing (as well as coming in at a surprisingly reasonable price point).

    Reshape the bridges into something a little more flowing and elegant, get rid of the unsightly “HHHH” pattern and apply a some Geneva stripes or frosting/egshell finishing and you may be onto a winner.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Man A ” Excuse me, can you tell what month it is ?
    Man B ” Are you John Connor ?
    It’s in the wrong place but that moon phase is the nicest i have seen,………….ever.
    The 2 tone blue face is exquisite, not so keen on the look of the numbers ( i’ve never liked that stenciled look ) .
    I echo previous comments about the finishing of the movement.

  • Sheez Gagoo

    Normally not a fan of luxury fashion brands making watches, but there is simply nothing to complain about this watch. Beautifully executed, surprisingly beautifull, interesting movement and complication and even a reasonable price for what it is. Well done. Earns full respect.

    • Berndt Norten

      Et le prix? Que-pensez vous? Un peu cher n’est-ce pas?

      • Sheez Gagoo

        Mème pas. Considerant qu`il s`agit d`une montre à platin, je trouve elle est Mème bon marché. Le mouvement n`èst peut-ètre pas le plus éxclusiv, mais ca ne fait pas encore une décade, une quantième perpetuelle en acier coutait autour de 50 000.

        • Berndt Norten

          D’accord, vous avez raison. Mais je me demande si le marché peut accueillir un tel produit, d’une maison de luxe parisienne. Quant a Cartier, ils one une histoire plus riche, plus longue… Mais, comme j’ai dit, p-etre que vous avez raison. On verra…

          • Sheez Gagoo

            Le marché decidera…

  • DanW94

    I’d prefer to see the day of the week as opposed to a second time zone. It’s a nicely executed dial and I’m betting the moonphase is stunning in person. But I agree with MEddie90, I’d rather have the basic Slim d’Hermes in steel but would go with a blue dial. For a perpetual, I’d choose the FC Slimline and save a boatload of cash.

    • Sigmund Von Kavignstein

      Sure, the moonphase display is nice but still using a 59 teeth moon wheel for a luxury perpetual calendar is really disappointing. I mean your moonphase is going to be running 44min behind per month. And it’s not like it’s really difficult to add a 7 branch star and an extra wheel to get an acceptable precision.

  • SuperStrapper

    It’s purdy. Can’t be denied.

  • Grumpy Cat

    Nice change from skull watches and Limited Edition Speedmasters.

  • ??????

    The movement finish reminds me of Panerai-Panerai-Panerai Unitas finish. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/abb190806793158b0490d1397d0c83eb59511e2663fe44fa686d26732f023d44.jpg

    The dial side looks good. But 40k good?.. I doub’t so.

  • Ulysses31

    Hermes make some very handsome watches and in my view are underrated. There’s no harm in appreciating good horology, no matter if it has a “fashion” label on it. They’ve dared to be different here, with an interesting style to the numerals and the branded finishing of the bridges. It’s the little details that make the watch.