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IWC Announces Updated, Smaller Ingenieur Watches

IWC Announces Updated, Smaller Ingenieur Watches   iwc

Did you get your fill of pilot's watches from IWC in 2012? Good, as they have directed their 2013 efforts towards the Ingenieur and have launched a series of new models that commemorate their historic line of anti-magnetic watches that were originally designed for duty on the wrists of French engineers (le science!). The new Ingenieur models include both three-handers and a selection of chronographs. Here we will take a look at the three-handers, in which IWC has announced two very different Ingenieur variations.

IWC Announces Updated, Smaller Ingenieur Watches   iwc

The first, and possibly most surprising, is the new ref 3239 Ingenieur Automatic which is built around a comparatively tiny 40mm platform. Most modern Ingenieurs are 46mm wide (and fairly tall) but this 40mm version returns to an old-school sweet spot and is a cuff-friendly 10mm thick. The underlying message here is that IWC wants to offer up some competition to the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. As I've never really taken to the trend of large watches (over 44mm), I think the 3239 is a practical option that will adorn a more conservative wrist with a more subtle sort of luxury. The 3239 still rocks 40,000 amperes/meter magnetic protection, the Genta-designed five bolt bezel and the clear legibility of a watch with tool-ish roots. That said, the Ingenieur Automatic which is powered by the IWC cal 30110, features a very dressy dial design that can be had in black, or silver with hands and markers in either chrome or rose gold. The cal 30110 is an IWC modified ETA 2892 A2 automatic movement which, in its base form, can be found in hundreds of watches and is commonly used as a base for modified movements. The modern Ingenieur range has been comprised of larger watches with more boisterous designs, so it is interesting to see IWC downsize the case and fit a much more elegant and conservative dial design. One has to consider that the 3239 may be the direct result of the continued popularity of the Rolex Milgauss (also 40mm) and possibly a response to demand from customers for an Ingenieur which is closer to its roots.

IWC Announces Updated, Smaller Ingenieur Watches   iwc

The Ingenieur, ref 666, was originally launched in 1955 featuring both an automatically wound movement and an iron inner case which offered excellent resistance to magnetic interference. Billed as an excellent watch for a variety of real-life situations, the Ingenieur featured a legible display, optional date feature and proudly bore the now-famous Ingenieur lightning bolt logo. The look of the 666 will be familiar to any readers who checked out Paul's recommendations in the aBlogtoWatch 2012 Holiday Buying Guide as Paul selected the ref 323310 from the Ingenieur Automatic Vintage Collection which pays tribute to the Ingenieur's roots.

The next big chapter in the Ingenieur legacy came in 1976 when, confronted with the rising popularity of quartz watches, IWC turned to famed watch designer Gerald Genta who had previously changed the face of luxury sport watches with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak. The third generation Ingenieur was born as the Ingenieur "Jumbo" SL (ref 1832) and the SL is essentially the same platform used to inspire the Ingenieurs of today. Characterized by many Royal Oak-like elements such as an integrated bracelet, fixed bezel with a series of screws or rivet points, and a textured dial with baton hands and markers, the Ingenieur SL could be had as a mechanical automatic or a quartz (ref 3003).

IWC Announces Updated, Smaller Ingenieur Watches   iwc

The modern Ingenieur may carry some traits established in the 70's but that doesn't mean that IWC is not innovating the line to reflect modern technologies and tastes. The new ref 3225 Ingenieur Automatic AMG Black Ceramic is a 2013 addition that has been created to commemorate the partnership between IWC and AMG, the performance wing of Mercedes Benz. Featuring a 46 x 14.5 mm black ceramic case and either a black or brown dial, the Ingenieur Auto AMG Black Ceramic is a fitting version of the Ingenieur line to match not only the high performance standards of AMG but make a more direct connection with AMG's Black division. AMG Black is essentially the special ops or "skunkworks" of AMG. They have produced especially bonkers and "track ready" versions of AMG-tuned Mercedes for a number of years, with my favorite still being the 2007-2009 CLK 63 Black which was powered by a 6.2L V8 which produced 507hp. The formula is simple enough, take a Mercedes coupe and crank the power, lightweightedness, and track-day bits to 11 and you will have made a Black. The Ingenieur AMG Black Ceramic takes an already excellent platform and replaces the steel case with one made of ceramic and ensures a fitting in-house movement is taking care of timekeeping. The movement in question is cal 80110 which has been seen in past Ingenieur models (including past AMG versions). The 80110 is a 24 jewel movement which features a power reserve of 44 hours and is fitted with the well regraded Pellaton bi-directional winding system and a proprietary anti-shock system. The 3225 will be limited to 500 pieces and follows a trend of Ingenieur limited editions which pay tribute to the IWC and AMG connection.

IWC Announces Updated, Smaller Ingenieur Watches   iwc

I don't think I'm wrong to assume that the new 3239 Ingenieur is going to be a pretty big deal in the coming years. Many have criticized the design for being a bit too boring, a bit too safe, but it's worth considering that there are plenty of wacky, wild and flashy Ingenieurs from which to choose and that many people buying a watch like the 3239 want something subtle, safe and maybe even a bit boring. If you were going to pick one watch to wear for most days, it would probably be a version of the new 3239 as opposed to the 3225 or some of the more colorful and large models IWC has launched in past years. No word yet on pricing but consider us quite excited to see this nicely sized and suitably thin Ingenieur in person at SIHH later this month.

About James Stacey

Writer, photographer and picky collector of watches. Thoroughly addicted to Google Reader, numerous podcasts, and more television than he would like to admit. James can generally be found in Vancouver, BC glued to his Macbook Pro and reading about watches or the latest camera gear.

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15 comments
Mach244
Mach244

I like the simple and understated looks of the new pieces.  Most importantly, I am thankful that IWC is returning to a "normal size" watch, since my wrists are only 6.5".  However, I really wished that they used the pattern dial similar to the 3227-01.  That would give them a little more "Ingenieur personality" IMHO.  If they did that, then I'm a buyer for sure!

CG
CG

Understated with clean uncluttered view... Very nice, but the AMG tag doesn't impress me, it's just taxi's with more horse power for the blue hairs that can't fit in a Corvette never mind getting in and out... "getting back to roots" does impress me. Too bad that brown dial was AMG only.

MarkCarson
MarkCarson

@CG I've been told by Europeans that mid-size and large Mercedes (E and S Classes) are seen as "grandpa's cars". I suppose that is sort of like the image Cadillac is trying to fit against in America. I doubt many "blue haired" lades drive AMGs, especially the Black editions. Odd that you mention Corvettes as they were known for many years to have flat seats with very little body hugging contours due the (ahem) girth of their owners. I agree that the "AMG tag" also does not make the watch any more  or less attractive to me. Cheers.

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DG Cayse
DG Cayse like.author.displayName 1 Like

Well written piece Mr. Stacey and good points Mr. Carson. Many watches today have gravitated towards putting as many bells & whistles into their design as possible. Dials, sub-dials, tachymeters, chronometers, compasses, barometers, etc...the list of "options" rivals my auto in available complexity. Too many, this represents a "personality" of the watch; and I can understand this. Each additional items requires (demands?) additional user interface with the mechanism. And for many this adds more to the design.

For some, I include myself in this group, a 'classic' three-handed watch is desired. I regard a watch as a complement to my own personality rather than something possessing its own separate psyche demanding my interaction for additional actions which I have no need of. 

I will confess, I do have a couple of digitals with 'extra' features - lap timer, altimeter, I think one even has a heart-rate thing that can be attached. Each of those does require extra user kibitzing for use. But these are 'needs only' items. Not something I like to have on my wrist all the time.

For many, a good clean classic design with a durable, dependable and reasonably accurate engine is preferred.

But remember, I don't care for the Stam punk watches either. But I am glad someone is pushing the design envelopes in many directions.

Just NOMW....(not on my wrist)


MarkCarson
MarkCarson like.author.displayName 1 Like

I think I'm in that camp mentioned in the last paragraph. I find the 40mm pieces too boring and too safe. Absolutely nothing wrong with them, but they are soulless. A watch should have some personality. 

I find the larger black ones attractive (not because of the size) but of course they have a very different look from the dressy 40mm references. I think the black case and hands plus the numerals on the flange ring and the 12 & 6 create a better effect. 

I see the Genta DNA but honestly, I would not see this design in steel as competition to the Royal Oak or Nautilus (both of which have personality to my eye).

nateb123
nateb123

Surprised they didn't put an 80110 movement in this.  With that movement it would truly be a kick in the teeth of AP.  Regardless this is still a damn fine looking watch.  Literally nothing I dislike about the design.

Ulysses31
Ulysses31

It's a nice clean design.  The size doesn't bother me that much, but the bulk of the case makes the dial seem even smaller than it is.  Understated, yet different enough in a sea of generic-looking dress watches.

Kris C
Kris C

Ingy chronos? Moar info!

David Bidwell
David Bidwell like.author.displayName 1 Like

There's a time and a place for large and traditional sized watches. You wouldn't wear gym shoes to a board meeting.

qudths
qudths like.author.displayName 1 Like

I dunno.  I love my Mark XVI ( 39mm x 11.5mm ) and this is after wearing watches of sizes 42mm, 44mm, and even a 46mm.  Also, I hate it when cases get so big that they get caught in my clothing.  It's fine in the summer, but when wearing sleeves in the winter, it can be a real pain.

ScottinArizona
ScottinArizona like.author.displayName 1 Like

If they don't go nuts on the price, and with an eta they shouldn't,  this could be a great 'suit' watch for when you're not trying to show the rest of the world you have a nice watch.

qudths
qudths

@ScottinArizona Agreed.  I've been wanting the 3227 in steel/black forever, but was always worried about the weight and thickness.  Maybe I'll pick up the 3239 instead.

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Ryan B
Ryan B

what Zeitblom said

HawaiianHorology
HawaiianHorology like.author.displayName like.author.displayName 2 Like

@Ryan B I have a 40mm x 10mm Maurice Lacroix Pontos.  This after wearing the Lum-Tec 44mm Tungsten Carbide anchor.  As qudths said, the 40mm x 10mm is my daily watch as it slips nicely under my dress shirt cuffs and is sized nicely for my wrist (which are admittedly on the small side).  Since this not so much a dress watch but a sporty watch, it might look a bit small but it might also be a nice compromise watch.  Sporty but not summer sporty.

No doubt that many women COULD wear a 40mm watch.  My wife is as tall as I am and 40mm would look fine on her.

This comment has been deleted

Zeitblom
Zeitblom like.author.displayName 1 Like

40 x 10 mm is just right --- for a woman's watch.

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  1. [...] French "mille" and Gauss, thus resistant to 1000 Gauss).  James Stacey recently covered a set of newly announced Ingénieur pieces by IWC, to be released in 2013: the year of the Ingénieur for [...]