IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde Watch

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde Watch

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

IWC’s recent strategy has been to focus on refreshing a single collection each year. For 2017, that was the Da Vinci, but that is not to say that IWC has totally neglected its other collections. In fact, IWC has recently and quietly bolstered its Portofino collection with the new Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde watch. The Portofino collection is mostly made up of simple time-only watches, so the addition of a more complicated piece is much welcome.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

For now, the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde is only available in an 18k red gold case. With dimensions of 45mm in diameter and 14.1mm in height, the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde is a rather large watch. The design of the case seems to closely follow that of the Portofino watches - a very classic design with slim-looking lugs and a thin bezel. The crown looks to be fairly beefy and large, which should be seen as a good thing since this is a manually wound watch. Water resistance is 30 meters.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde has a silver-plated dial with gold leaf-shaped hands. The hours are marked by gold baton markers and there’s a simple minute track with every 5-minute marker clearly indicated with Arabic numerals. At 3 o’clock, there’s a handy power reserve indicator, and at 6 o’clock you have the exposed one-minute flying tourbillon. Finally, at 9 o’clock you have a retrograde date indicator.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The retrograde date indicator is pretty cool, but I have doubts about its practicality. It doesn’t look particularly legible to me as only the 3rd day of the month and thereafter every 4 days are marked by Arabic numerals - the rest of the days are marked by a simple track. As a result, if the date falls in between the ones marked by the Arabic numerals, some squinting could be necessary before one can make out the exact date.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde is driven by the 59900 caliber, which is visible through the large sapphire crystal display case back. It looks to be quite nicely finished with open-worked bridges, beveled edges, Côtes de Genève, and perlage. One can also see the large mainspring which offers the movement a generous power reserve of 192 hours or 8 days. To improve efficiency, the pallet fork and escape wheels are made out of diamond-coated silicon.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

However, the standout feature of the 59900 caliber has got to be its hacking tourbillon, which allows owners to easily set their watches to the second. Believe it or not, a stop-seconds mechanism for the tourbillon was only invented by A. Lange & Söhne in 2008, so tourbillon watches that hack are still relatively rare.

IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

All in all, the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde looks like it will give fans of IWC’s Portofino collection the chance to pick up a relatively complicated watch. Though I can’t say that I’m a fan of the styling - my biggest problem is the legibility of the date indicator - the IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde does have technical features that are admirable. It isn’t a limited edition piece, but IWC does say that it will be available only in small numbers because of its complexity. The IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Tourbillon Rétrograde is priced at $58,000. iwc.com

What do you think?
  • Interesting (6)
  • Thumbs up (3)
  • Classy (1)
  • I love it! (1)
  • I want it! (1)
  • IG

    Somebody worked hard in Corel Draw to create these product “photos”.

  • Phil leavell

    Sensory overload ?

    • Berndt Norten

      Dump that load, Philo de Scato!

  • Glen Campbell

    By the time I get to Geneva
    Marius will be rising
    He’ll find a note on ABTW
    He’ll laugh where he reads the part
    saying ‘I’m gone, that’s all she wrote’

    Cuz he knows I’ve wrote that line so many times before

    By the time I make Detroit Rock City
    he’ll be shine-oling his Bentley
    He’ll probably stop for lunch and write us a blog post
    And he won’t think of me one wink
    That’s all

    By the time I make Hawaii
    Mark’ll be working out
    Building that washboard physique
    (Me I’m such a geek)

    He’ll probably cry to think I’d really leave him this time
    But all this time I tried to tell him so
    I just ain’t no Bauhaus Metrosexual guy
    He ought to know
    But he didn’t know
    I would really go

    • proudAmerican702

      Nice to see the original Rhinestone Cowboy is still writing lyrics. RIP GC.

      • Word Merchant

        “So pass me mah cow…
        The one they call Bessie.
        I’m gonna get nakid,
        It’s gonna get messy.

        I’ll wear my Portofino,
        An’ I’ll look real smart,
        When Bessie sees it…
        …it’ll sure break her heart.

        So I’ll pump and I’ll grind,
        An’ Bessie will moo
        Will mah watch keep its time,
        When covered in goo?”

        Thanks y’all, ah think ah’m spent.

        • Berndt Norten

          Word to the merchant
          You VIP
          Rocking this megaphone
          Like a vandal

      • Berndt Norten

        A talent like his comes along once in one, two, three generations. He had it all: the voice, the guitar licks, the looks. Unfortunately he wasn’t a songwriter so his oeuvre is relatively small. But what he did–nobody did it better.

        • Word Merchant

          I assume you mean me. But worry not, I’m still very much alive.

  • The date indicator would be especially hard to read since the hand doesn’t fall squarely in the indices. That’s pretty sloppy, especially for a CGI rendering.

    • Word Merchant

      The ‘design’ guy who did it thought it was a minute counter.

    • WINKS

      Especially considering the date counter wouldn’t be in that position given the time shown by the hands.

    • TheChuphta

      Excuse me, do you know what the date is?

      Yes, one moment please — takes out phone, takes picture of watch dial, zooms in — It’s either the 16th or the 15th. Hello? Where did you go?

  • Marius

    IWC has always been one of my favourite watch brands. Models such as the Portugieser and the Big Pilot’s are not just iconic, but also very attractive as well as capable timepieces. Nevertheless, I never really liked neither the Portofino line, nor IWC tourbillon.

    From a design perspective, the Portofino line never really convinced me. I always regarded these watches as the “low-cost” alternative to the Portugieser, and I always had the feeling that IWC themselves viewed this line in the same way. I find the lugs too thin; the crown too thick; and overall, it’s just a rather weird interpretation of the dress watch by IWC, a brand that has always been famous for its tool watches.

    From a technical perspective, I’m also rather underwhelmed. I mean, the main reason for buying a tourbillon — besides the visual spectacle — is to get a highly-finished movement. While the caliber of this watch has an interesting architecture and a decent finish & decoration, it’s far from being a high-grade, highly-finished movement. Judging from the renderings as well as from previous IWC tourbillons, the finishing is mostly machine-applied, and has a rather “industrial” aesthetic. Sure, if IWC charged $30,000, then I would somewhat understand, but at almost $60,000, I would expect a much higher degree of finish and attention to detail, especially considering that Tag Heuer sells its tourbillon/chronograph for around $16,000.

    Personally, with a budget of $60,000, I would look at a non-tourbillon watch with a proper high-grade movement. Instead of spending $60,000 on a tourbillon with a lackluster finish & decoration, I would buy a Lange Datograph/JLC Duometre à Chronograph/Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Roteur.

  • Word Merchant

    I’ve said a few times that the only IWCs I’d consider are the Port Auto, the Port Perpetual Calendar, the older Port Chronograph without the IWC in-house movement, and the steel BP without any of the idiot Top Gun nonsense anywhere on it. I might just take a BP Perpetual Calendar as long as it didn’t have any stupid extra branding on it. To be honest, the best recent thing IWC did to the BP was to put the ‘9’ back. I’m amazed their designers didn’t fiddle more.

    This watch hasn’t made be change my mind.

    • Chaz

      Hear hear! for that 7750 based true “classic” Port chrono. Not the “Classic” Port chrono IWC is trying to push with an ugly date window and cluttered in-house movement subdials…

  • Moonraker

    Man, these printed dials look so cheap, like an upsized Nomos. And what’s the date? Almost the 22nd? So the 21st?

    • Berndt Norten

      Man, I feel like a Nomos

      • Moonraker

        Let’s go, boys!

        We’re goin’ out tonight.
        We’re gonna start a fight.
        Let our inner Bauhaus out.
        I know it’s a Tangente, but I ain’t done yet.
        The Bill hasn’t Max’d out my card.

        The best part about wearing a Nomos
        Is the prerogative to have a little fun, yeah!

        • Berndt Norten

          Who oh oh I’m totally crazy
          Short hands bright lime oooh ooo oo
          Colour my dial do as I dare

        • Berndt Norten

          Meet me in St Louis?

          • Moonraker

            Meet me in Santa Fe, Ray.

          • Berndt Norten

            Who is this mysterious Ray?

          • Moonraker
          • Berndt Norten

            Did they ever find out what made Feleena leave home?

          • Moonraker

            From El Paso?

            If you listen closely at night, you’ll hear in the wind
            A woman is cryin’, it’s not the wind sighin’
            Old timer’s tell you, Feleena seena IWC Portofeena

          • Berndt Norten

            Homes. Listen to the music. Feleena was originally from Santa Fe

          • Moonraker

            I confess I only knew the original El Paso song. So I had to look up the rest.

          • Berndt Norten

            Was it in Portofino that Cass and Camille once reunited?

  • Chaz

    “…so the addition of a more complicated piece is much welcome.”

    Seriously? A most unnecessary “complication” in a fringe family of IWC?

    The collection is mostly simple, time only watches? I recall them having a decent, single button chrono.

    • Berndt Norten

      Sorry Chaz but my eyesight ain’t what it used to be. Who dat in your avatar? Hitchcock? W.C. Fields? Guy from Benny Hill?

      • Phil leavell

        The first picture of Marius captured in the last 20 years

  • SuperStrapper

    Wow, thay movement view is unique and quite cool.

    That is all.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    I wouldn’t wear it much, but i want it.

    • Berndt Norten

      You’d wear it well
      A little old fashioned
      But I won’t tell

      • Word Merchant

        Please all stop. I beg you…

    • WINKS

      Tears for fear of wear and tear?

      • Berndt Norten

        Tears and fears and feeling proud
        To say I’ll wear you right out loud

        • Moonraker

          Welcome to your life.
          There’s no Roger Smiths.
          Even while you sleep.
          You can’t have one.
          Please act on your best behavior.
          Don’t turn your back on Mother Nature.

          Everybody needs to mow the lawn.

          • Berndt Norten

            Raymond in chains….

          • Moonraker

            An ode to the giveaway guyz’ pale shelter:

            You don’t give me watch.
            You make me do facebook.
            You don’t give me watch.
            You make me “like” you.
            You know I can’t remember all these new password.
            When all I want to have is
            Completely free timepiece.

        • Moonraker

          Pout
          Shout
          Let it all out
          A Roger Smith you’ll have to do without
          Come on
          I’m talking to you, Ray
          Come on

          • Berndt Norten

            Come on. I’m talking Gagoo. Come on
            In darkest times
            You shouldn’t have to disembowel
            Your financial health
            To get a Rollie and much else

  • Richard carroll

    Pretty cool if your tastes run to large, expensive formal watches. The tiny, illegible date display is a bit ironic.

    • Berndt Norten

      Don’t you think??

      • Moonraker

        It’s like a chronometer, when you’re already late.

        • Berndt Norten

          It’s a polished rotor
          Behind a solid case

        • Berndt Norten

          Brilliant!!!

      • Moonraker

        Mr. Say-it-safe was afraid to post.
        He planned his words so they would impact most.
        He waited his whole damn life to make that comment.
        And as the article dropped, he thought,
        “F#ckin’ Kravitz Design!!!? Are you f#ckin’ kidding me?”

        • Berndt Norten

          Well isn’t he iconic?
          Dontchu think?

  • Yanko

    The Tourbillon looks as if was made and assembled by 9th grader at the school’s metal shop.

  • BNABOD

    So dress watch in 45mm? Sure ok then that makes sense IWC and the price yes the price makes even more sense

  • TheChuphta

    I understand the rich guy playful insouciance of essentially useless / never to be used complications (yachting countdown timers, etc) but I’ve never seen a stolid brand like IWC needlessly render a useful complication completely worthless as with this date function / abortion.

  • Juan-Antonio Garcia

    $58,000, whaaat? This watch looks like a kickstarter watch. I do not understand where this watch fits in their line. For me, it degrades the brand.