IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Watch With New Portugieser Name & Movement

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Watch With New Portugieser Name & Movement

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Watch With New Portugieser Name & Movement Watch Releases

We are pretty excited about this new IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar watch which debuts with the IW503501, IW503502, IW503504 references. For SIHH 2015, IWC will dedicate their focus the brand's iconic Portuguese collection with a range of new models - even though until this point, the new watches that IWC has thus far announced are in the Portofino collection. This includes the new IWC Portofino Mid-Size for women as well as the attractive and simple IWC Portofino Hand-Wound Pure Classic watch. The only new actual Portuguese collection watch for 2015 that we've seen is the IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar, and it boasts an impressive new movement, dial layout, and perhaps some hints about where IWC is going in 2015.

One of the oddest parts of this watch has nothing to do with the design but rather the name. There are times that IWC has referred to the Portuguese as the Portugieser internally - but I don't recall actually seeing it as being part of the official name of any of their products. For whatever reason, IWC has decided to call this watch the "Portugieser Annual Calendar," versus the more logical "Portuguese Annual Calendar," which would fit more into the rest of the naming of the Portuguese collection. I am sure there is a reason for this, but it is currently a bit of a mystery. Personally, I believe this might be perhaps a mistake, and eventually, the watch will be corrected to be called the Portuguese Annual Calendar - we will see.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Watch With New Portugieser Name & Movement Watch Releases
IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar ref. IW503502

What makes me happy is that the watch is both aesthetically and technically beautiful, and has IWC debuting a new movement. The brand commonly re-uses movements in a range of watches, instead preferring to play with colors, case designs, and dial details. All that is nice and good, but I like IWC at their best - which is doing something fascinating and technical. Here, we have an evolution on the caliber 52000 family of movements with the brand new IWC in-house made caliber 52850.

The 52850 builds on its family of calibers with not only an annual calendar complication, but a few other improvements and enhancements which IWC claims will make their way into other 52000 family movements. This includes a new automatic rotor design, and some aesthetic improvements to the movement. On top of operating at 4Hz (28,800 bph) with a long power reserve of 168 hours (7 days), the 52850 now has two versus one mainspring barrel. IWC claims that this is necessary to add additional torque which is required to move the various discs that display the calendar information. Of course, you also have the subsidiary seconds dial and power reserve indicator.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Watch With New Portugieser Name & Movement Watch Releases

In all, I really like the layout of the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar dial which doesn't fundamentally change the look of the Portuguese, but rather adds to it just a bit. Not only does it add an annual calendar display, but it adds a very easy to read and elegant to set the annual calendar complication system. A trio of windows are set next to each other under 12 o'clock, which read the month, date, and day of the week. This layout is done for technical reasons, and it turns out to be best for how Americans indicate the date. Ideally it would say the day of the week first, but I am not complaining at all. What isn't necessary, in my opinion, is the statement "Annual Calendar" under the trio of windows. I understand that the brand likely tested the dial with and without this text, but it feels as though it doesn't add anything to the overall composition - and that takes away just a bit from the overall sense of elegance.

Assuming the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar is like other new 2015 Portuguese models, we see a continuation of the beefier Portuguese case that IWC uses for most modern Portuguese models. See for example the aBlogtoWatch review of the IWC Portuguese Chronograph Classic watch here. I believe the smaller - more traditional case is reserved for those models which do not contain IWC in-house movements. It is unclear what the fate of those models is going to be, as brands like IWC are increasingly going in-house when it comes to their movements. If that is the case, we can assume the evolution to the IWC Portuguese watch family will be in style and movements rather than a serious design change.

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Watch With New Portugieser Name & Movement Watch Releases

Size-wise, large watch lovers will appreciate the IWC Portugieser's 44.2mm wide case size. The case will be 15.3mm thick with a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback. Also note that the sapphire crystal over the dial will be domed, versus flat - which will add to the thickness just a bit more. I mentioned above that IWC designed the movement to be elegantly set. What I meant was that all the calendar and time correction/adjustment is done via the crown. That means no inset case pushers (a good thing in this instance). Assuming the watch remains running, how often will you need to adjust the calendar? As an annual calendar, this IWC will only need to be adjusted on leap years, as it is not able to take into consideration those years when February has 29 days. For the most part, I think annual calendars are the best bang for your buck, compared the typically much more expensive perpetual calendars.

With a series of attractive features and a stunning looking dial, I think the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar watch will be a big hit assuming IWC doesn't charge too much for it. Then again, there aren't too many other annual calendar watches quite like this. Let's just hope the blue-dialed steel version proves to be very legible in person when we see it hands-on in a few weeks at SIHH 2015. With that said, the IWC Portugieser Annual Calendar watch will debut with two steel models (the ref. IW503502 in steel with the midnight blue dial and the ref. IW503501 with the silver-plated dial) and an 18k red gold ref. IW503504 also with the silver-plated dial. Price for the IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar in steel will be $24,100 and in 18k red gold it will be $35,700. iwc.com

IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar Watch With New Portugieser Name & Movement Watch Releases
IWC Portuguese Annual Calendar ref. IW503504

Portuguese Annual Calendar Tech specs from IWC

Features

- Mechanical movement
- Pellaton automatic winding
- Power reserve display
- Annual calendar with displays for the date, day and month
- Small hacking seconds at 9 o’clock
- Glucydur® beryllium alloy indexless balance with high-precision adjustment screws on balance rim
- Breguet spring
- See-through sapphire-glass back
- Rotor with 18-carat gold medallion

Movement

- Movement: IWC-manufactured calibre 52850
- Frequency: 28,800 A/h / 4 Hz
- Jewels: 36
- Power reserve: 7 days (168 h)
- Winding: automatic

Watch

- Materials:
Ref. IW503501: case in stainless steel, silver-plated dial, black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
Ref. IW503502: case in stainless steel, midnight blue dial, black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in stainless steel
Ref. IW503504: case in 18-carat red gold, silver-plated dial, black alligator leather strap, folding clasp in 18-carat red gold
- Glass: sapphire, arched edge, antireflective coating on both sides
- Water-resistant: 3 bar
- Diameter: 44.2 mm
- Case height: 15.3 mm

What do you think?
  • Thumbs up (2)
  • I want it! (1)
  • Interesting (0)
  • Classy (0)
  • I love it! (0)
  • outremer

    The dial seems beautiful, as well as the movement, however the diameter and thickness is absurd.

  • SantiagoT

    Far
    nicer than the Patek Philippe Annual Calendar Chronograph (yes, this is not a
    chronograph, I know, but why do I want a function that makes the dial look
    bad). I wouldn’t mind seeing the blue version with the calendar windows in blue
    and the writting in white -for instance- so that there isn’t such a contrast.

    What I don’t get is the price: I have read somewhere that the price will be CHF
    23,000. That’s roughly € 19,000. I did a review of the Perpetual Calendar
    Boutique Edition and it costs € 12,700. Something is not right on that matter.

    But what is even more important: Happy New Year everybody!

  • jtmoney430

    Man this watch looks awesome. I wish I had all the money in the world cause these watches are not cheap now a days.

  • joshgraves

    Nice looking watch.  I like the execution of the power reserve.

  • Epictime

    Beautiful dial set up and case back but agree with Ariel that the designers should adios the kindergarten “Annual Calendar” subtitle. Also, much too thick and wide for my preference for a dress watch. Will look nice with the “Ardiose” colored dial IWC uses in other models.

  • Ok, the blue dialed steel version is very sexy. Me like. I’m not American, so when someone asks me the date I say ‘Thursday, January 1st’. Not ‘January 1st, Thursday’. That’s strange. But I could live with it.
    I think the part that puts this watch off the most is the dial vs case/lug structures. The dial is great, and the case is too, but they done seem to be a perfect match. The lugs look too heavy for what looks like a classier watch. They would look fine I bet on a sportier display.
    Regardless, quite nice. Would wear. And the dimensions don’t scare me. 44mm is perfectly wear

  • Waikato7

    Beautiful. And the perfect size. No one does blue like IWC.

  • Ulysses31

    What a superb watch.  Beautiful, and all the complications are arranged so thoughtfully so as not to detract from the overall aesthetics.  This one makes the list.  Happy New Year to all.

  • GBD

    The watch is gorgeous; the case dimensions are idiotic.

  • SantiagoT IWC has a great limited run (500) Portuguese perpetual calendar in steel that retails for about $28k.

  • This is a great development for IWC and a refreshing update to the Portuguese line. I was excited to see this but my excitement started dwindling when I saw the (I know, kill me on this!) SIZE and the unnecessary script on the dial.
    Hopefully the script issue will be a prototype bug (IMO) that’ll be resolved by the time they get into production. As for size, I felt the Portuguese was always sitting in that “just perfect” sweet spot of being slightly larger than conventional, still imminently wearable AND keeping the nod to the history and tradition of the design. It always looked slightly bigger than its 42mm due to lack of a space wasting bezel…I’m sure the 44mm is going to come across bigger as well.
    Looking forward to seeing what 2015 brings to the rest of the Portagee line though I’m sure pricing will approach the ridiculous. 
    Happy New Year, everyone!

  • Is no one else bugged by this new name?  The port-u-geezer?

  • Patrick Kansa At least IWC didn’t print it on the dial under “Annual Calendar”

  • I believe that the “fancy” spelling is simply the German spelling of the word Portuguese. IWC showing its roots.
    Also, IFAIK annual calendar means one adjustment every year, whether or not the year is a leap year… Small error, but important one, oh master watch handlerU0001f606
    U0001f38aHappy new year U0001f389

  • Loved this watch, even though it’s not devoid of nits. For example, I’d rather see 12 at 12 o’clock and would think it better if the annual calendar would be at 3 or even 6 o’clock and, yes, without caption. The case is huge,  but it seems to have been mandated by the beautiful and capable movement without pushers. Would trade the power reserve sub dial for these changes.

  • LapYoda

    Patrick Kansa It’s more Portuguieser than the previous version, and the next will be the Portuguiesiest!

  • LapYoda Patrick Kansa Well, your Portuguess is as good as mine!

  • HowieBoyd

    I wonder how they manipulate those discs?  The way that all three are co-radial and apparently co-planar seems impossible.  During a midnight change, it seems like the words and numbers would be visible passing through the wrong openings.  I guess the days are printed on the spokes of a 7-spoked wheel and the months on a 12-spoked wheel.  It’s pretty mysterious.

  • Patrick Kansa I agree. In English Portugieser sounds rather ugly. It is the German way of saying it that IWC went with.

  • aBlogtoWatch Patrick Kansa How is that, phonetically?  Portu-geese-r?  Portu-geyser?

  • Patrick Kansa aBlogtoWatch Exactly like you guessed. “geezer” all the way.

  • turnera

    It’s a beautiful watch! I might be biased as my 1st foray into luxury watches in December was a pre-owned Portuguese yacht club and I’m loving it ! Certainly has similar dimensions and for me I admire the larger sized watches. I appreciate the comments on price but pre-owned from watches of swizerland in the uk is the way to go ! Let someone else take the initial deprecation and enjoy 24 months guarantee. It’s likely this piece will be significantly more than the yacht club , however I’m looking toward to trading in a few years time ! U0001f600 happy new year to the blog community ! Keeping the love for beautiful new launches !

  • HowieBoyd I agree, I doubt they are all co-planar.

  • emenezes I agree, except that I’d keep the power reserve for visual balance (and a degree of functionality).

  • Patrick Kansa This one is for, ahem, mature collectors. The younger set will want the IWC “Whippersnapper”.

  • Time2Go

    Patrick Kansa The “new” name is just awful. And pointless. I guess the boys at Schaffhausen didn’t bother to ask anybody outside their clubhouse how it might sound in other languages. Or maybe they asked, but they’re too cool to care. Seems like a serious marketing FAIL to me.

  • LapYoda

    SuperStrapper Well, here in ‘Murica we say, “Thursday, January 1st.”  It’s the same in ‘Murican as it is in this “English” that you speak.

  • Time2Go

    Kind of surprised at the nearly all positive comments on this one. I do love IWC and, as another person mentioned, IWC definitely does know how to do blue right.

    But here’s what drives me crazy about this watch: it’s primary “feature” is the annual calendar. So, they took the components of the date, which are often spread all over the dial in many (most?) watches, and decided to put them all together on a giant billboard at 12 o’clock. So far so good. But then they go for a Month, Date, Day ordering. WHAT?! I’m well aware that standard date formats vary all over the world, but where is Month, Date, Day considered “standard”?  Anywhere?

    If that is a standard format in some large[ish] portion of their market, then I’ll stand corrected.  But if not, it just seems to me that they let the engineering challenges in the movement stomp all over the human usability of said movement’s primary “feature”. And that, to my mind, is a fail.

  • zhuzy

    emenezes I agree as well. Having something that will be blocked when the clock strikes 12 is a little weird. Perpetual and annual calendars from other big brands tend not to do that. And the arrangement of the date feels a little off for me. It just feels that the month should come after the day and the date. The position of the windows is also a little crowded for my liking.

  • aBlogtoWatch Patrick Kansa Not sure if the German would be more elegant…

    http://youtu.be/ZlATOHGj9EY

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  • Chaz_Hen aBlogtoWatch Patrick Kansa Isn’t Henning a German name? I wonder what it sounds like in other languages? Hauoli Makahiki Hou my friend.

  • notech47

    A very classy and subtle watch. I think it needs the 11, 12 and 1 markers on the dial with the month, day and date moved in slightly toward the center of the dial.

  • SantiagoT More like this Santiago?

  • SantiagoT

    MarkCarson SantiagoT omg Mark YES! YESSS! This sh*tty livefyre won’t let me give you likes ad infinitum. Am I wrong or the watch would look so much better like that? Cheap watches can have the date window in white. This piece of expensive beauty shouldn’t.

    Thank you Mark, and Hau’oli Makahiki Hou (excuse my strong Spaniard accent).

  • SantiagoT

    Chaz_Hen SantiagoT Chaz, this is the one I reviewed: http://ow.ly/GGNaJ And that costs roughly $ 15,300 (at least in Spain).

  • SantiagoT

    Waikato7 Moser, perhaps?

  • SantiagoT

    Chaz_Hen Patrick Kansa …which should be Jahreskalender anyway.

  • SantiagoT

    Maximilien Actually the founder of IWC, Florentine Ariosto Jones, was from the United States.

  • SantiagoT MarkCarson Yeah, once the fundamentals are right, one just needs to no screw up the details. I think I’d rather see the date stuff at 6 and have 11, 12, and 1 on the dial. But even like this, it’s so much better. I hope IWC is paying attention (which I doubt). feliz año nuevo

  • Yeah, I know of IWC’s American roots, I am talking about its German roots. IWC’s headquarters are in Schaffausen, and I believe that’s in one of the mostly German-speaking part of Switzerland.
    I am also not justifying the sudden name change… Nor do I care for this model. I actually like the previous chrono 7 days power reserve just fine as it is.
    As many have pointed, there are some flaws in this design, minor but real flaws. And regarding German name vs English, IMO it’s pointless to change the name while using the English “Annual Calendar” on the dial.

  • SantiagoT

    Maximilien ^^^This.

  • Maximilien And then there is the use of English for “Swiss Made” and even those watches which have French on some parts says “Swiss Made” and often some English on their case backs. I find the dual language use on dials amusing (it used to bother me, now I’m used to it).

  • BigMike213

    Something about blue dials that make me feel a certain type of way. <3

  • thebalancecock

    Refined to the level of snooztacular.

  • Jimxxx

    44.2mm for a conservatively styled dress type annual calendar watch? Funny.

  • SantiagoT MarkCarson My name is Inigo Montoya…

  • Chaz_Hen SantiagoT MarkCarson Prepare to buy!

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