Martenero Edgemere Watch Review

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

One thing I keep on saying about microbrands is that it’s enjoyable to see them evolve. The "big brands" have hundreds of years of experimentation and refinement behind them, and at this stage they are pretty easy to identify. It’s the newcomers who are still trying to define and establish themselves that I find quite interesting, which brings me to the Martenero Edgemere. I was fortunate enough to get one of these a few weeks ago, and I have been wearing it ever since for this exclusive wrist-time review. What do I think of it? Well, what else would you be here for, other than to find that out! (Unless you are here because you like to compare the arm hair of various ABTW contributors — which would be weird.)

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Back to matters of the wrist, I found the Martenero Edgemere to be a great example of a brand learning about what makes a great watch. When I first unboxed the watch, I immediately thought that this may very well be the most uniquely "Martenero" design that has been released to date. Some of you may remember my review of the Martenero Marquis, which I found to be a classy yet practical watch. The Martenero Edgemere seems to have learned from past experiences and delivers what I feel is the best piece in their current line up.

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

For starters, it takes bigger risks. The model in this review is the "main" colourway, and I think you will all agree that it makes a much more confident statement. The red strap, blue hour ring, and multicoloured chapter ring are super catchy, and I really love the vibrance of this thing. It definitely gets noticed, and it’s only one of the four clever colour combos Martenero offers for the Edgemere model. I’m very happy to see such a bold step from this New York microbrand. Kudos.

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The silver dial of the Martenero Edgemere has a modern diagonal pattern that is rather fetching, and I personally love the sub-seconds at four-thirty. The raised hour ring also has raised numerals, which really makes the Arabic numerals pop off the dial. Also, the numerals on the Martenero Edgemere evoke the dial of the Omega Suveran 2400-7 (circa 1950s), which is a fantastic reference to be reminded of. I also get the overall marine chronometer look, which is really carried through in the style of the hands. The hands have a somehow recognizable feel to them, but they still look unique. Come to think of it, I can only think of Ulysse Nardin using a similar diamond shaped minute hand on some of their marine chronometers. Either way, it helps get the point across, and it does it well.

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The solid caseback is a welcome feature on the Martenero Edgemere, and it bears a nautical compass in correlation with the overall theme. Why is a solid caseback a welcome feature? Now, don’t get me wrong, display windows are great — I just don’t really need to see the Miyota 8245 that’s inside. Miyotas are reliable little machines, and because they are equally accessible, you’ll find quite a few microbrands using them. However, I’d rather see brands in this price range focusing on the case, dial, and overall design of the watch rather than try to wow me with the innards. Other than the first-time mechanical watch owner, I think many watch enthusiasts would agree with me on this point… Or, they will try to boil me alive in the comments section for my ignorance and heresy. We’ll see!

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Backing up a slight bit, the Miyota 8245 ticks away at 21,600bph, with a 40-hour power reserve. You can give it a short wind, to kick-start the engine if you’ve let it wind down, but this automatic movement will stir to life with the slightest agitation. Like I said, it’s quite reliable.

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Up next, I want to talk about the case of the Martenero Edgemere. It’s quite different from the twisted lug cases that Martenero has used up until this point. It has wide, short lugs that are brushed on the top, and polished on most of the side. About two thirds of the way down the side of the case, it angles inwards slightly and is brushed again, almost like a knife's edge. It’s a simple feature of the case, but again, it’s quite unique. I mean… I have seen twisted lugs before, but nothing comes to mind for this kind of detail on a watch case. It’s good stuff.

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The 316L steel case is 40mm in width, and it’s just right for the overall vibrance and presence the watch carries. The screw-down crown affords you 50m of water resistance and could make this an easy everyday wearer. The slightly domed sapphire crystal has an excellent anti reflective coating that lets all the wonderful features of the dial shine on through. I didn’t notice any unpleasant glare during the last couple of weeks, so it is certainly doing its job.

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

And finally, the strap of the Martenero Edgemere is great. It’s genuine leather, with a hypoallergenic leather lining, and is made in the USA. The hold end is rounded with a classic branded buckle on the other end, and the strap is finished in a bright oxblood red that I really enjoy. It’s vibrant enough to be impactful, yet tasteful enough that you suit it up and still look dapper. It really brings the whole colour theme to a satisfying conclusion.

Martenero Edgemere Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

So, what do I think of the Martenero Edgemere? I think it’s great, and I think it’s the smartest piece they have released to date. What’s more, you can strap one of these on your own wrist for a mere $550 USD, and I can tell you it is damn well worth that in terms of enjoyment. And you know what I like best about it? It’s fun. It’s something that isn’t trying to be overly serious, and I think we can all use a little bit of levity on the wrist from time to time. martenero.com

Necessary Data
>Brand: Martenero
>Model: Edgemere
>Price: $550 USD
>Size: 40mm x 47mm x 11.8mm
>Case Material: 316L Stainless Steel
>Movement: Automatic, Miyota 8245
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes.
>Friend we'd recommend it to first: A watch lover that wants something fun to wear.
>Best characteristic of watch: Colourful and unique.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Honestly, I can’t think of one. I’d love to see a version of this with sans-serif Roman numerals also. Perhaps one completely insane colourway in a limited run.

What do you think?
  • Thumbs up (4)
  • I want it! (1)
  • Interesting (0)
  • Classy (0)
  • I love it! (0)
  • I quite like this; their designs are good, somewhat subtle – something a few of their competitors would do well to learn from – you can deliver a distinct aesthetic without going to town on every element.
    I quite like the colour around the dial, but if I understand correctly, they are trying to deliver a regatta timer from the running minutes hand – not particularly useful!
    Matt I agree with you point about the guts – it’s so early 2000’s – if it ain’t got hand striping or a little anglage it’s fine to keep it out of regular sight.

  • A_watches

    There are some interesting/inoffensive design elements here but its a no from me. It looks like a mircobrand fashion watch and cheaper than the $550 they are asking. $300 max is about right for this.

  • ??????

    Their first proper design so far and it’s great. Previous models used Omega-like cases, which bugged me a bit. Combination of colors looks fresh and vivid and the watch itself plays between Breguet’esque seriousness and Pepsi joy. I am fine with asymmetrical location of the subdial (hi Breguet again), but I’m sure many would disagree. Glad that they decided to go with a solid caseback, but crude Miyota 8415 for 550 bucks? Why couldn’t they stick 9015 for that price? All in all, the watch is above average for a microbrand, but the value proposition isn’t there. Stick 9015/SW200 and we’ll talk.

  • I don’t understand the point of the coloring from 12 to 3 and 6 to 9 on the dial. The other thing that is a head scratcher is why do they need a screw down crown for only 50 meters of water resistance? Looks like lume is not part of the equation either. If one likes the look of this watch, hey why not – it’s not terribly expensive. But then again not that cheap for a 8xxx Miyota based watch. At least they resisted the Seven Friday approach of cluttering up the dial with an open heart and 24 hour display (like 7F does with their Miyota 82S7 based watches). I find the case (lugs in particular) of the Martenero Marquis to be more interesting than this one.

    • Omegaboy

      Re: color on dial. Exactly. Get rid of the color, and add a tail to the seconds hand, and you have a decent looking watch. I like the lugs.

      • Shinytoys

        I feel one of the most eye appealing parts of this watch is the way the colors were selected against a high quality face background. You could go with all white with the blue seconds counter, but I feel that choice pales in comparison to the other three offerings.

      • laup nomis

        Colours okay, but totally agree about that second hand. It looks unbalanced.
        Edit: on second thoughts I’m not sure about the second hand. It really stood out when I first saw it, but now I can see it matches the other hands. So I don’t know anymore.

    • Jeffrey Chang

      I think random color on dials happen when you higher designers that go for aesthetics only.

      You see it looks good on some watches not realizing its there for utilitarian reasons and you incorporate it in your dial.

      It does what it ‘intends’ though draws attention (good/bad) to what would be a vanilla dial without it.

  • Coert Welman

    It is quite pretty and of a good size, but the price is a bit high for something containing that movement.

  • JosephWelke

    That particular colorway makes me think this is a Tommy Hilfiger fashion watch, from a distance. It seems well made and the hands are certainly long enough! I do like the asymmetric sub-seconds dial, though.

  • BrJean

    OMG, this watch looks like a younger brother of recently reviewed Breguet 7147!

    • Jeffrey Chang

      I was thinking this and wondering if off centered seconds dial are a thing now.

    • laup nomis

      Haha. Its like someone spiked fusty old Breguets drink with acid. Its now down with the kids, funky and colourful.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    I to am a little baffled by the colouring on the face other than for aesthetic reasons..
    It’s a pretty watch, nothing special, but i would wear it.
    Whats 40mm x 47 mm ?

    • Jerry Davis

      40 wide x 47 high, including lugs I think.

      • Raymond Wilkie

        I don;t think so

        • SuperStrapper

          You’re wrong.

          • Raymond Wilkie

            So it’s higher than it is wide ?

          • Jerry Davis

            As I said, including the lugs, yes.

  • I totally agree with solid casebacks over ordinary movements, and that one’s not bad.

  • The Deplorable Boogur T. Wang

    It looks “fun.”
    And it looks like it was designed by a committee…after a long Happy Hour…with lots of shots…of hard liquor.
    Worth every bit of US $125.00.

  • Jerry Davis

    Love the “look” of this time piece but I’m also of the opinion that it is overpriced
    by twice what it should be and for my wrist 40mm is too small.
    I am buying 44 to 47 these days.

    • Svetoslav Popov

      How big is your wrist, 40mm is not small for this type of watch by any standard.

  • Shirley Furby

    Best features strap and side of the case. Price should be 150-160.

  • Shinytoys

    Micro brands interest me in their visual and mechanical “take” on their designs and history. The Martenero is a fine looking piece with a proven and reliable engine, and the price I find very agreeable. Nicely done.

  • SuperStrapper

    There’s no such thing as hypoallergenic leather. So, it is a different hide or material being called leather, or the leather has some kind of hypoallergenic coating on it.

    Not throwing stones, but I do get a few requests a year from someone with a leather-related allergy, and I have explored and experiments with many options to defeat the problem.

    • mtnsicl

      Yes there is. It’s not the leather that people are allergic to. It’s the chemicals used to tan it. Tan with hypoallergenic ingredients and you have hypoallergenic leather.

  • otaking241

    Would definitely take this over a Shinola.

  • Beefalope

    What’s going on with those lugs?

  • mtnsicl

    This is a beautiful watch! The only thing I’d change, is the sub dial, the buckle and the crown. They are all very plain looking. I think the price is pretty fair and I’d pay another $50 if they made those changes.

  • Diamond Dave

    I don’t have anything to say about the watch, just wanted to compliment your taste in comics. I love Chris Ware. Maybe we can look forward to an article about pairing watches and comics?

  • The har

    Interesting watch. This would be a great casual dinner party watch to show off and strike up a conversation. The watch would be a perfect accent piece when worn with a blue shirt and red paisley tie (No jacket or the dress becomes office formal and the watch gets hidden).

  • Ranchracer

    Not my style, but glad to see they stayed away from the open heart or display case back. I’m also a fan of the micro brands that don’t try and pass themselves off as “Swiss Made”. An ugly watch with an ETA/Sellita is still an ugly watch.