MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

For the final exciting iteration of the Horological Machine No. 3, MB&F has partnered with world-renowned Boucheron to create the JwlryMachine. Swiss MB&F who celebrates the art of the machine combines their technology with French Boucheron who celebrates the art of jewelry. The result is an incredible work of three-dimensional art that will be made to order for those who want to add this stunning luxury to their collection.

The HM3 watch should require no introduction. It originally came out in two styles which I discussed here, was then offered in another limited edition form as the HM3 Frog here, and you can read a review of mine on the HM3 Sidewinder here.

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

MB&F is known to exchange talent with other highly-respected watch designers. If you recall, Alain Silberstein lent his talents for the creation of a limited edition HM2.2 Black Box watch that I displayed here. They have indicated to me that such collaborations are not only fun, but highly inspiring - so expect more of these in the future.

Boucheron is a brand I've discussed before. For me, they are most well-known for their almost whimsical-style jewelry that is as fun as it is beautiful. Coincidentally enough, I wrote a piece on them that also featured a purple owl when talking about their Bestiary Ronde Seconde Folle collection of watches here. Why owls? The purple owl is a common symbol of the night and of mystery. Owls also have additional benefit of having an engaging visage. Even in jewelry form its large eyes are expressive - creating a highly palpable face. Out of all symbols and figures, the human mind is most drawn to faces. Human faces first, and likely animal faces next. The larger the eyes, the more we are drawn to the face. No wonder we are so fascinated with owls.

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

The JwlryMachine is a mechanical bird. Better stated, the JwlryMachine is a bejeweled bird with mechanical innards. The watch is like an MB&F with Boucheron clothing - and in this instance the tailor was very good. MB&F was actually surprised at how smoothly this partnership went. According them, Boucheron was quickly and easily able to take the HM3 and work their Parisian magic on it. The specially modified case is still in 18k gold (white or pink) and titanium, but with its new avian and feather inspired shape. The clear sapphire crystal of the open movement windows on the front are no longer used to cover the movement - but they are still used for the cylinders that tell the time. MB&F worked with Boucheron to create the feathered look of the owl's breast and the "eyes" over the time columns in two special colors.

That is right, the JwlryMachine will come in at least two versions. The displayed purple version, as well as a pink version. Plus, because the watches are made to order, MB&F and Boucheron promise that almost any color the client can imagine will be feasibly available. I personally like to call the purple version the "Night Owl." Because the Night Owl is also a character from Watchmen, and because that character had a ship named Archimedes that looked like an owl. Thus, I placed those images in the post. The Night Owl, as being a major gadget guy himself, might like a JwlryMachine for extravagant nights out on the town.

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

Amethyst is used extensively in the JwlryMachine Purple. You'll find it as the large cabochon style eyes at the top of the hour and minute indicator cylinders, as well as over the open movement. The crystal there is specially engraved to look like feathers. What is really cool, is that it is semi transparent. Meaning you can still see the 22k gold battle ax style automatic rotor spinning underneath it. Another amethyst is used as a cabochon on the crown. The watch has about 41 carats of amethyst. Aside from amethyst you'll find a few precious stones on the complex case. These include about a carat of diamonds, as well as over 5 carats of mixed blue and purple sapphires.

The JwlryMachine Pink has a few changes, but remains more or less the same. First, the case is in 18k pink gold versus white gold.  Instead of amethyst, the watch design uses pink toned quartz and rubellite. It also has diamonds, and a mix of pink, purple, and blue sapphires. This should be a nice "day owl" compliment to the night owl.

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

I have to say that the combined effort of MB&F and Boucheron is really rewarding. The two respected brands have melded their talents well. and the "JwlryMachine" might have an 'interesting' name but a face anyone can love. The HM3 Frog proved that this was a design meant for eyes, and this is a version of the watch that really proves it. The HM3 JwrlyMachine retains the ability to tell the time, but the date complication has been probably partially obstructed due to the design. I think that is an acceptable trade-off for this fantastic three-dimensional machine and jewelry sculpture. The watch will come on a purple (or otherwise) toned alligator strap with a 18k gold and titanium deployment clasp.

Where can you get one? How much will it cost. Distribution will be highly limited and watches will be mostly made to order. A few MB&F retailers will carry them, but for the most part the watches will be available through Boucheron boutiques around the world. Prices for the MB&F HM3 JwlryMachine will start at $215,000 and depend on the version as well as exchange rates. This isn't the MB&F watch we used to. You don't see precious or semi-precious stones on their watches. The JwlryMachine is certainly a change of pace for the luxury machine style watch MB&F is known for producing. Some people might see that as an issue, but I could care less about the thematic departure. This is simply a revision of their aesthetic as dreamed up by Boucheron, and a beautiful item of interest for all people to enjoy. The real question is, can a man pull off wear it? I am imagining a custom model in all black and while with yellow eyes. That would work.

MB&F With Boucheron Present: The HM3 JwlryMachine Watch Watch Releases

Tech specs from MB&F:

JWLRYMACHINE

Movement:

Three-dimensional horological engine designed by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht/Agenhor;

Girard-Perregaux oscillator and gear

Balance oscillating at 28,800 bph. 22K rose gold battle-axe shaped ‘mystery’ automatic winding rotor

Hour and minutes information transmitted via ceramic ball bearings to laser-cut hands.

Number of jewels: 36 (all functional)

Number of components: 304

 

Functions:

Hour and day/night indicator on one cone

Minutes on second cone

Date around the movement

Case:

JWLRYMACHINE, Purple: 18K White Gold/Titanium and Amethyst

Breast made of an engraved amethyst: 35.27K

Eyes made of two cabochon amethysts: 6.34K

Diamonds: approx. 0.96K

Blue and purple sapphires: approx. 5.17K

Screwed-down crown with cabochon amethyst: 0.33K

JWLRYMACHINE, Pink: 18K Pink Gold/Titanium and Quartz

Breast made of an engraved quartz: 32.71K

Eyes made of two cabochon rubellite: 7.88K

Diamonds: approx. 0.96K

Pink, purple and blue and purple sapphires: approx. 5.17K

Screwed-down crown with cabochon rubellite: 0.33K

Sapphire crystals:

Cones and both display backs with anti-reflective treatment on both faces.

 

Strap & Buckle:

Hand-stitched alligator or lizard strap with 18K Gold and Titanium custom designed deployment buckle.

What do you think?
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  • Kris C.

    It’s amazing…
    I don’t know how else you would describe it other than to say it is a complete triumph. With all that jewelling and decoration, this piece completely steers away from gaudy, which to me is just as compelling as the watch itself. A 35+ k custom cut amethyst? Incredible. The giant quartz on the pink model is excellent as well, but it’s opaque nature takes away from the artistry that the purple one has. For what I think they were trying to achieve, I can’t say that anything here should have been done differently on the purple model. That may not be much in the way of a statement, but I pretty much always have something in the way of constructive critisism.
    Would I ever wear it? Doubtful. Would I ever own it? In a heartbeat.

  • pat i.

    My mother-in-law loves it.

    Her seeing eye dog does not.

  • Witch Watch

    Awwww HELL NAW!

  • Sean

    I guess it all comes down to personal taste.

    My personal taste tells me that this watch was vomited onto a wrist-band by a deranged sugar-plum fairy after taking 5 hits of Mescaline.

    Truly Beautiful.

    -S

  • Simeon Weinraub

    I actually screamed when the images loaded. KInd of a helpless and confused, “WHY, GOD, WHY!?!” Then I thought about the care and craftsmanship, engineering, and how well executed these pieces seem to be. Then, I looked at them again and marveled at the unbridled excess of it all. Then, I whimpered, “why, god, why?”

  • Ivan Y

    I like this better than plain version of HM3 — not a big fan of that design. At least, here it works very well thematically and looks GREAT and not gaudy like most watches with jewels. Doubt a man could pull it off — rappers/athletes notwithstanding, blingy watches aren’t for guys.

  • BIG CHRONO

    I do like the picture of a real owl. Best part of the article.

  • Dangeruss

    It’s cute way to make the design work. The “regular” model is a mess for me. While I’d never aspire to own either, I like the owl motif better. My wife would love this, but she’d love a $200K shopping spree more.

  • Ivan Y

    A follow-up on my comment: I showed this watch to my most fashion-forward female coworker and she wasn’t wowed by it. She didn’t hate it, but didn’t like it either. And that was even before I told her the price.

  • ummm….

    ugh??

  • Owl bet they have a little trouble selling these.

  • All these comments show that the Jwlrywatch has performed as expected. MB&F’s machines and Boucheron’s jewelry aim to create an emotional reaction and so they have. If you’d like to know my opinion on who (hoo, hoo) I envision wearing the watch, jump on over and come visit: http://bit.ly/Jwlry_abtr

    Meehna

  • PriyadarshanGajbhiye

    Is everyone so blind as to not to recognize art? Or do you want to remain crippled by your ‘intelligence’ or ‘taste’? Art is subjective, it can mean different things to different people.