This time last year, Nomos announced two new lines that exclusively used gold for their case construction. At the time, we debuted both the Nomos Lux and the Nomos Lambda models, which were an entirely new direction for Nomos, offering a level of technology, craftsmanship and finishing, not to mention price, that is well above the small German brand’s core line up. This month, Nomos will expand both lines, adding a trio of women’s models to the Nomos Lux line and a new dark blue dial to the white gold version of the Nomos Lambda.
The new Nomos Lux versions come in three original colors – Sable (aubergine, ref. 942), Ermine (grey, ref. 940), and Cicada (lemon yellow, ref. 941). Unlike the white gold original Nomos Lux, all three 2014 references are offered exclusively in 18k rose gold and the cases have been downsized slightly from the original 40.5 x 35 mm to 38.5 x 34 mm, with the thickness holding at 9 mm.
The new sizing and colors (two of which the brand says were inspired by fur) offer a re-tune of the original Nomos Lux for a female audience. Given that the 40.5 mm Nomos Lux was not an especially masculine design to begin with, this slight change in size combined with the unique new coloring might succeed in locking down some lady-wrists. Regardless of the intended gender, I think the Ermine Nomos Lux with its rose gold hands and matching case looks amazing on the pictured brown leather. The Sable Nomos Lux (which uses a very dark rich purple tone) is reserved, but distinctly feminine, while the yellow Cicada Nomos Lux is bright, fun, and just a little weird (in a good way).
The internals remain unchanged from the inaugural Nomos Lux line, with the 2014 Nomos Lux models using the same high-end in-house DUW 2002 hand wound movement. With twin barrels offering 84 hours of power reserve, 23 jewels, and 21,600 vph, this handmade and hand-finished movement exhibits the best of the best from Nomos. Finishing details include a 3/4 plate finished with a sunbeam pattern, hand polished and screwed gold chatons, a hand-engraved balance cock and swan neck fine adjustment (see above). Nomos movements always look good, but the Nomos Lux (and the Nomos Lambda) are undoubtedly a cut above.
The Nomos Lambda, also announced last year, was originally available in white or rose gold with a white silver galvanized dial. For fall 2014, the brand has expanded the white gold Nomos Lambda to include a deep blue lacquered dial. If I thought the original Nomos Lambda looked great (which I did), then the new Nomos Lambda Deep Blue is an absolute stunner and offers a much better balance for the 42 x 8.9 mm white gold case.
Aside from the dial color, the Nomos Lambda Deep Blue is identical to the 2013 models, with an anti-reflective crystal, Horween leather strap and the DUW 1001 hand-wound in-house movement. The DUW 1001 is essentially a round version of the DUW 2002 described above, and it features the same high level of finishing. The Nomos Lambda does offer a large power reserve indicator that lets you keep an eye on the twin-barrel 84-hour reserve, ideal for a hand-wound watch.
New colors are a staple for successful models from Nomos and the Nomos Lux and Nomos Lambda are no different. The new Nomos Lux models show a fun side that is not often seen from the brand and the Nomos Lambda Deep Blue looks so good, we wonder why it wasn’t part of the original launch. We love the way that Nomos uses color to accent and pivot on their strong and individual sense of design. The other element (pun intended?) to these models is their use of gold, which, along with the high end movements, translates to pricing much higher than we are used to seeing from Nomos.
The 2014 Nomos Lux models will retail for $19,500 while the Nomos Lambda Deep Blue is going to shatter your piggy bank at $20,000. As long as Nomos continues to create accessible, well-made, and beautiful watches like the Orion and Tangente, we have no doubt they can find a few buyers for top-tier models like the Nomos Lambda and Nomos Lux. nomos-glashuette.com