Richard Mille joins the thin watch craze in 2011 with their 6.30mm thick “Extra Flat Automatic” RM 033 watch. For the complexity of a Richard Mille watch case 6.30mm thick is pretty darn good. The brand makes sure to maintain as much of the signature look as possible in the design of the case – and they also made it round. The hour numeral style is not new, but taken from the Richard Mille RM 017 Tourbillon (that actually was finally released this year).

For the RM 033 (RM033), Richard Mille makes the hour numerals bolder, but kept the interesting ellipses shape in the center of the dial. This is about as formal and “elegant” as Richard Mille watch comes these days. I do quite like the dial, but wish the hands were a bit bigger or easier to see. To me, the shape of the hands seems to just go a bit oddly with almost art deco style Roman numerals. The rest of the dial is basically the top part of the movement. Around the numerals are lume dots, and there is more lume on the hands.

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I love the size (and width) of the case at 45.70mm. Like I keep saying, the best thin watches are wide watches. The case is light and done in titanium with typical Richard Mille “spline” screws. Like I said, it was an impressive task to retain the iconic Richard Mille case architecture while trying to flatten it. Even the sides of the case have that nice inset look I have come to appreciate the the finely cut titanium on Richard Mille timepieces. In addition to the shown titanium version, the RM 033 will also be available in 18k red gold or 18k white gold.

The movement in the watch is all new. It is the RM033 automatic with a solid platinum micro-rotor. Having a micro-rotor is pretty much a necessity for all thin watches, and platinum is used for the weight, not just for weird bragging rights. While the watch doesn’t have a dedicated power reserve indicator, the movement is skeletonized, which includes the mainspring barrel.  If you take off the watch, you can see the spring in the barrel and get a gauge on how tightly wound it is. Richard Mille says the movement has a power reserve of 42 hours. The movement itself is just 2.60mm thick – which is quite impressive given all the styling that went into it. The movement is made primarily of titanium with some steel.

While Richard Mille considers the watch to be a “formal piece,” it still has a lot of the sportiness we have come to love from the uber-luxury brand. On the wrist the watch feels light and solid – like most of their pieces. While it comes on a rubber strap, people are regularly know to switch out the straps with custom jobs. Richard Mille himself is especially known for this. I wonder what other straps options would look good on this watch? Price for it is rather high… but that is to be expect from Mr. Mille. In titanium the RM 033 is $70,000, $85,000 in red gold, and $90,000 in white gold. So get one right away!

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TECHNICAL SPECIFICATIONS OF THE RICHARD MILLE EXTRA FLAT AUTOMATIC RM 033

CALIBER RMXP1: Skeletonized automatic winding movement with hours, minutes and monoblock platinum rotor

Diameter: 45.70 mm x 6.30 mm.

MAIN FEATURES

(MANY OF WHICH ARE MAJOR TECHNICAL INNOVATIONS)

FREE SPRUNG BALANCE WITH VARIABLE INERTIA

This type of balance wheel represents the ultimate in innovation. It guarantees greater reliability when subjected to shock and also during movement assembly and disassembly. Hence better chronometric results over time.

The regulator index is eliminated and a more accurate and repeatable adjustment is possible thanks to 4 adjustable small weights located directly on the balance.

MONOBLOCK MICRO ROTOR

After the rotor with variable geometry that contributed to the success of Richard Mille’s automatic calibres, a new winding device is introduced in the RM033. By using a platinum, decentrally positioned micro rotor, the barrel can be efficiently wound and an extra flat skeletonzied movement can be achieved.

POWER RESERVE: 42 hours

BOTTOM PLATE, BRIDGES AND BALANCE COCK MADE OF TITANIUM

The baseplate and the skeletonized bridges were first subjected to separate and extensive validation tests to insure optimal strength requirements before manufacturing. The creation of these components in grade 5 titanium with Titalyt® coating for the baseplate and PVD coating for the bridges, allows the whole assembly to be given great rigidity, as well as precise surface flatness that is essential for the perfect functioning of the gear train.

SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE BRIDGES

This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

OTHER FEATURES

– Diameter of the movement: 33.00 mm

– Thickness: 2.60 mm

– Number of jewels: 29

– Barrel arbor — in AP 20 steel

– Balance: Glucydur, 4 arms, inertia moment 5.75 mg.cm2, angle of lift 53º

– Frequency: 21,600 vph (3Hz)

– Balance spring: Nivaflex

– Shock protection: Incabloc 908.22.211.100 (transparent)

CASE

It retains the same characteristics and attention to detail of case design with a vast number of stamping and machining operations required for this round case with a total height comprising a mere 6.30 mm.

The design and execution of this watchcase typifies the complete conceptual approach to all parts of the movement, case and dial. As a result, everything has been constructed according to an extremely rigorous specification. For example, a casing ring is no longer used and the movement is mounted on chassis mounting rubbers (ISO SW) fixed by 4 titanium screws

The tripartite case is assembled with 16 spline screws in grade 5 titanium and abrasion resistant washers in steel and complemented by the additional integration of the lugs into the case’s torque screw system

SPLINE SCREWS IN GRADE 5 TITANIUM FOR THE CASE

This permits better control of the torque applied to the screws during assembly. These screws are therefore unaffected by physical manipulation during assembly or disassembly and age well.

CROWN

In ceramic, with double seal O-ring and detailing in titanium, 18-carat red or white gold

INTERIOR FLANGE (upper and lower)

In carbon fiber, with index points filled with approved luminous material.

DIAL

In sapphire (thickness: 0.30 mm) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides),

CRYSTAL

– Bezel side: in sapphire (1800 Vickers) with anti-glare treatment (2 sides).

– Thickness: 1.00 mm

– Case back: in sapphire with anti-glare treatment (2 sides)

– Thickness: at the center 1.00 mm and at outer edges 1.53 mm

FINISHING

MOVEMENT

– Bottom plate in hand-ground titanium, wet sandblasted, Titalyt®treated

– Bridges wet sandblasted, top surface polished by hand, PVD treated

– Locking sections hand polished

– Burnished pivots

– Diamond polished sinks on the bridge side

– Pinions with undercuts

– Sandblasted and rhodium-plated, beveled wheels

GEAR WHEELS

– Concave chamfering with a diamond tool

– Circular-smoothed faces

– Gilding (before cutting the teeth)

Minimum manual correction to the wheels undertaken in order to preserve geometry and performance

STEEL PARTS

– microblasted and hand-drawn surfaces

– sapphire blasted surfaces

– anglage and polishing by hand

PROFILE-TURNING

– lapped and polished ends

– burnished pivots


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