Looking at the past a bit I want to bring your attention to the Roger Dubuis Golden Square. Not the contemporary model, but the one from a few years ago. In a 43mm wide square case, the watch screamed luxury in a way few other watches have. Bold and loud, the watch still in good taste. People that wear one suddenly feel a bit more important, but you aren’t sure why. In fact, I believe the watch may still be in production, even though there are newer Golden Square watches available. While the Golden Square came with Roman or Arabic numerals, I think the Roman numeral version is the king when it comes to appearances. The Arabic numeral version is arguably easier to read, but doesn’t have as impressive a face.
In some respects the watch looks like a (more) metrosexual Cartier. The blued steel hands (gold in at least some of the pieces0 are larger than you might expect and stylized just a bit less than Louis the XIV’s wardrobe. The dial is rich with artistic merit, and could never be referred to as busy or too complex. Though it is a “full dial.” There is a central ring to help with telling the time. The tapered Roman numerals look sharp, and sexy. Blown up more than Cartier’s versions.Adding to the legibility and poise of the watch is a sapphire crystal that has been coated with AR on both sides.
An interesting touch on most Roger Dubuis Gold Square models was the perforated lizard strap. It felt like a compliment to kinky driving gloves. They fit nicely on demure lugs with exposed screws on the sides. The Golden Square case is actually quiet curved to fit over one’s wrist nicely. The rear of the watch has a sapphire crystal display back in the center to see the movement. This is good because Roger Dubuis is known to give watches very nicely decorated movements, the one in the Golden Square is an automatic of course. If the 43mm wide case size is too large for you, less “bold” sizes are available. There is a 40mm wide version, 37mm wide version, as well as a much smaller 34mm wide version.
Dial choices on these Golden Square models were plentiful. From light to dark tones, dials could even have mother-of-pearl, diamonds, or engraved centers. On each face though, the sharp angles of the hour numerals and the large hands stand out the most. Just the time not enough for you? Roger Dubuis did, and continues to release Golden Square watches with a variety of complications. There are calendars, chronographs, and a unique dual timezone model that is styled like a regulator. For older models, I recommend the basic three hand models as some of Roger Dubuis’s older movements with additional complications sometimes had issues. If you are getting a new Roger Dubuis watch, this isn’t an issue anymore after Richemont Group too them over and improved their movement production arm.
The watch wouldn’t be called the “Golden Square” if it wasn’t actually a golden square. The versions I have come across have cases either in 18k rose, yellow, or white gold. Prices for these watches retailed to levels above $40,000. On James List there is a version in rose gold with a diamond decorated inner dial for just under $25,000.