Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph Watch & The Return Of Roger

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph Watch & The Return Of Roger

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph Watch & The Return Of Roger   watch releases

Roger Dubuis (the brand) has had a very interesting history over the last 15 years or so - and none of what I am referring to has anything to do with their watches. The man Roger Dubuis started it 1995. He was later ousted from his own brand by a guy who I heard sort of force him to sell it. Then the brand underwent a massive lawsuit in the US (which they lost). Then Richemont bought it and decided they would try to bring back Roger Dubuis into the light. Then George Kern was appointed the CEO by the Richemont board to try and make something good of the brand as well as strengthen the movement manufacturing, and now Roger Dubuis himself has been rehired by the brand he started himself a while ago that was going on for so long with his name and not his blessing. Interesting right?  Well I think so. Welcome back Roger.

Roger Dubuis won't have a specific title as I understand it. He will work with the new Head of Movement Development, helping with ideas, design, execution, and inspiration. According to the brand, Mr. Dubuis will be a "natural ambassador. Sure, OK. It couldn't have come at a more important time for Roger Dubuis as well (the brand).

The Geneva Seal turns 125 this year and for its birthday the "image of quality" gets more homework as a gift. What? Well sort of. The Seal of Geneva is a marker on (usually the movement) watches that have met certain origin and quality standards. For years people complained that the standards were a bit hokey and didn't make sense. The hardest part to get of Seal of Geneva on your watch was actually producing your watch in the canton of Geneva. There was so much controversy around it that brands like Patek Philippe decided to make their own seal. For after 125 years the Geneva Seal standards have been updated and made more strict. I should mention that Roger Dubuis is a brand that for a long time has boasted a lot of Geneva Seals on their watches.

Roger Dubuis Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph Watch & The Return Of Roger   watch releases

What are the new Geneva Seal standards? I am actually not totally familiar with all the changes but the new criteria is more strict and seeks to certify wearing quality. In short the certification is about watch origin, quality, decoration, and construction. If you are a really hardcore watch guy you can read a full detailing of what a watch needs to be to get the seal applied here. Note that the new standards further call for better made and more accurate watches tested in normal wearing conditions in the case itself.

The 125th anniversary Geneva Seal itself is also a bit different - likely to show people that movements with the updated seal fulfill the new requirements. Roger Dubuis has already released news of their first watch to satisfy the requirements of the 125th anniversary Geneva Seal. Dubuis himself is a very good watch maker and will likely help push the unique mechanical capabilities of the brand's manufacture movements forward in the coming years.

The new seal-satisfying watch is the Excalibur Flying Tourbillon Monopusher Chronograph, and it is very beautiful as well as limited. Inside of the 45mm wide 18k pink gold watch is a Roger Dubuis produced MR580 automatic movement.. The movement boasts a flying tourbillon, monopusher chronograph, power reserve indicator, and cool dial-visible micro-rotor. All that and it retains a nice symmetrical look.

Roger Dubuis will only produce eight of these limited edition Flying Tourbillon Monpusher Chronograph watches. I have a feeling that pieces such as this and others like it moving forward will heavily rely on guidance from Mr. Dubuis. Overall a nice (and expensive) piece and I look forward to seeing how Roger Dubuis will help Roger Dubuis.

6 comments
Marc
Marc

I partially agree with both of you.
I really feel naked without, at least, a chronograph ;)
I don't really like the "chopper" look of the tourbillon. It is absolutely not linked to the name "Excalibur" ... The red hands look out of context for me, they should have put pink gold hands.

Overall the watch is very nice, I always liked the pink gold/ brown combo, it is very classy with a masculine look!

Roger Dubuis and Steve Jobs share the same story : being fired from their own company !

kris c
kris c

Very nice - I love the heavy, masculine case with it's bezel notches and dedicated crown guard design. The dial is very good with a nice chapter ring.

I do not, however, enjoy that tourbillon design. Looks too much like the countless cheap open heart watches you see being sold as 'tourbillon'. And red hands in a pink gold case? Puke.

Ulysses
Ulysses

This is actually a really beautiful piece. Not only is it very useful (I feel kinda naked without a chronograph) but it does it in style. That visible rotor is a great touch; never thought i'd see one in place of a sub-dial. The face is nice and open, the sub-dials large and easy to see - since I can't stand watches with tiny little impotent sub-dials. I almost didn't notice the power reserve indicator; it's so discreet and cleverly pivots at the same location as the main hands, allowing for a cleaner design. Yep, it looks good which is nice to see from a guy who usually creates more extravagant "love them or loathe them" designs.

Joe Steel
Joe Steel

Seriously, how often do you actually use a chrono complication? "Naked"? "Impotent"? Behave.

Ulysses
Ulysses

Are you being serious? Using such a term as "behave" to someone you don't even know as if they are a naughty school-boy. Were we in the same room it would rapidly become abundantly clear to you who between us better suited the role of a subservient child. I use a chrono' fairly frequently, else I wouldn't have mentioned how I feel without it. You shouldn't reprimand someone for honestly describing how he personally feels about something - that isn't a judgement on those who don't like them, it's just what I prefer myself. There are plenty of watches I like that don't have a chronograph too but i'm so used to it that it would be hard for me to be without one now. Same thing when I switched from phone-boxes to cellphones; I wouldn't be without one now, even though it's not absolutely necessary. I like chronos. Deal with it. Ah, watch lovers are such adversarial folk.

admin
admin

Its ok. I would never make fun of you for loving your chronograph. I feel naked without a watch on... it isn't that big of a difference.

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