The BCHH Sovereign is the first sports watch collection from Benjamin Chee Haute Horlogerie, a brand born out of the passion to bring world-class watchmaking to Singapore. BCHH is Chee’s third brand and his personal passion project and the Sovereign is the realization of a luxury sports watch for the collector who is tired of the sea of mass-produced pieces out there. Chee’s bold and wearable design is brought to life in Kari Voutilainen’s workshops with Vaucher Manufacture movements, and the watches are finished by some of the world’s best AHCI watchmakers. The BCHH Sovereign is available in 904L steel or platinum — let’s take a look.
Voutilainen & Cattin Case
Designed by Ben Chee, the Sovereign is almost futuristic-looking, though most of the inspiration comes from supercar chassis and yacht hulls. The bold and architectural Sovereign is hand-assembled and finished, with a case produced by Voutilainen & Cattin, which is Kari Voutilainen’s case workshop. There is hand-done polishing, brushing, and satin finishing done throughout the case.
The BCHH Sovereign case measures 40mm-wide and 8mm-thin. These proportions allow for a very wearable watch that is meant to be worn and enjoyed, whether you’re wearing a suit or going skiing. It can’t be overstated how important water resistance is when designing a true everyday wear luxury sports watch. That said, the Sovereign’s 150M water resistance rating is an integral part of ensuring the wearer has peace of mind.
The BCHH Sovereign is currently available on a water-resistant leather strap that is hand coated with a special balm, and which can be personalized down to the strap, lining, and stitch color. The signed tang buckle is done in platinum.
The BCHH Sovereign’s dials and hands are done by Comblémine, which is also owned by Kari Voutilainen and does dials for his eponymous brand, as well as a handful of other exclusive independents. In addition to ensuring some of the finest dials and hands possible, this relationship also allows for bespoke-designed, engine-turned guilloché dials to be available on commission.
Looking at the Sovereign, there are four dial variants available. First, there is the platinum engine-turned guilloché of the brand’s design or it can be designed by the customer if preferred. Second is aventurine, and the customer can select both the stone of their choice as well as the specific area of the stone from which the dial is cut. Third and fourth are white and green jade, which also can be selected by the customer just as the aventurine is. Note that BCHH sources some of the highest quality jade anywhere on earth, with Hetian nephrite from Xinjiang, China and jadeite from Myanmar.
Even the smallest details of the case are done by Comblémine skilled artisans who can work for many hours over the course of several days. For example, each of the nine facets on each of the octagonal hour indices is hand black-polished, which is a process that takes several days for each dial. The hand-finished, faceted hour and minute hands are lumed, with a final distinct shape that is done through selective skeletonization.
For the best possible legibility, the flat sapphire crystal is done with an anti-reflective coating.
Vaucher Manufacture Movement
The BCHH Sovereign uses Vaucher’s ultra-thin 5401 micro-rotor movement, with the buyer having the option of the traditional 5401/32 or 5401/33 with signed tungsten gold rotor. These are the most recent 5401 productions that have an improved rotor design that benefits isochronism. The Vaucher 5401 operates at 21,600 vph and has a 48-hour power reserve. There is circular graining, Geneva stripes, beveling, and hand-finishing done throughout the movement.
The BCHH Sovereign Tourbillon is available in each of the dials and features a special flying tourbillon that is hand-finished by the aforementioned exceptional AHCI watchmakers.
Info and pricing
The BCHH Sovereign is built to order, meaning that much of what is shown here can be adjusted and customized to the buyer’s wishes. Price for the BCHH Sovereign in Platinum is $18,900. To order, simply contact [email protected] directly. You can learn more at bchh.ch.
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