2021 has seen the trend of green dials spread far and wide across the watch industry, with verdant versions of classic watch models popping up in nearly every market segment. Parisian tool watch specialist Bell & Ross has thrown its hat into the ring on this trend with its latest release, but rather than simply adding green to an existing design the brand has used the opportunity to refine and purify one of its core dive watch concepts. The new limited edition Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military combines solid utility with a stylish take on the brand’s signature cockpit instrument design motif, for a modern diver that feels both on-trend and distinctly Bell & Ross in its execution.
Bell & Ross renders the 42mm square case of the BR 03-92 Diver Military in an aggressive matte black ceramic finish. Beyond the scratch resistance afforded by this tough lightweight material, this matte black surface helps to reinforce the military cockpit instrument theme that has guided the BR 03 line since its beginning. This is not the first black ceramic BR 03-92 Diver model, but the rounded corners, beveled edges, and four accent screws are amplified by the flat finish of the material and work well in concert with the simpler new dial. Like previous iterations, the coin edge dive bezel is deceptively thin, adding a minimal amount of thickness but potentially impacting ergonomics and ease of use. The BR 03-92 Diver Military backs up this serious appearance with a robust depth rating of 300 meters.
Where the case of the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military bridges the gap between dive watch and aviation instrument, the dial zeroes in on diving functionality arguably more than ever before. Previous versions of the BR 03-92 Diver line have distracted from overall legibility with flourishes like orange hour hands, fully lumed dials, or bronze finishes, but here the focus is on pure utility. The distinctive truncated baton handset and rounded applied diver indices are finished in clean matte black, while the lume fill is in stark white. As the “Military” moniker suggests, the green dial surface used here is a muted matte khaki tone, which keeps the utilitarian theme intact in initial images while adding a punch of streetwear-ready color to the mix. The round 4:30 date window deserves special mention here, with a smooth integration featuring a dial-matching date wheel and lightly printed numerals.
Bell & Ross powers the BR 03-92 Diver Military with the Sellita SW300-1 based BR-CAL.302 automatic movement. This powerplant is something of an Achilles heel at the BR 03-92 Diver Military’s price point, offering only 38 hours of power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate. Strap choice, however, is a bit more robust as Bell & Ross provides a pair of distinct straps with each BR 03-92 Diver Military. The first is a wide textured rubber strap in simple black. This more modern look can also be swapped for a durable dial-matching layered synthetic fabric strap in khaki green that helps to accentuate the classic military-inspired aspects of the watch’s character in initial images.
Combining 2021’s most popular color with a more refined, focused approach to the brand’s tool diver design, the limited edition Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military may well be the line’s most complete package to date. Only 999 examples of the Bell & Ross BR 03-92 Diver Military will be made, available now through authorized dealers at an MSRP of $4,500. For more information, visit the brand’s website.