September 30, 2019
by Kenny Yeo
The equation of time complication is one of the most obscure in watchmaking. I can only think of fewer than five of such watches off the top of my head. But I can think of many more with perpetual calendars and tourbillons. To be fair, the equation of time is one of those “useless” complications. Unless you are an astronomer, what good is knowing the difference between true solar time and mean solar time, aka civil time? Still, it’s a celebration of human ingenuity and problem-solving that we can use a bunch of wheels and springs to calculate and display this difference in time. Here are 10 notable equation of time watches.
Akrivia is surely one of the hottest independent watchmakers today. Its thoughtfully designed and beautifully finished watches belie its founder’s age. Rexhep Rexhepi is, believe it or not, just 32 years-old. And recently, Rexhepi announced that he is going to be working with the legendary Mr. Hagmann, a case-maker of almost mystical renown who has made cases for the biggest names in the industry, including Audemars Piguet, Vacheron Constantin, and, most famously, Patek Philippe. It was Hagmann who made the case for the Star Calibre 2000 and also select Patek Philippe minute repeaters. This is a peek into the newly built Jean-Pierre Hagmann and Akrivia case workshop.
Source: Watches by SJX
Rolex’s ascendency to the top of the watch world is equal parts prowess in watchmaking and marketing. That Rolex makes some of the most solid watches today is without doubt, but equally impressive are the brand’s advertisements, some of the most memorable and striking in history. They might not always make sense, and some might be cheesy, but they are usually unforgettable. Just think about “The Rolex Way” and their iconic “You’d wear a Rolex” ads. Here is a collection of Rolex advertisements from the company’s long history. My favorite is the one above.
Philippe Dufour is often called the world’s greatest living watchmaker. He hails from Switzerland, and his workshop is located in the village of Le Sentier in the Vallée de Joux. However, his biggest fans are, arguably, located across the world in Japan. To understand his popularity in Japan, consider that in the late nineties, a Dufour fan club sprung up even before he ever sold a watch in the Land of the Rising Sun. And when he did, more than half of the Simplicity watches he made went to Japanese collectors. If you really think about it, it’s not surprising that Dufour’s work is so well appreciated in Japan, a culture obsessed with craft and doing things the proper (and often hard) way. Dufour is almost always the first person you think of when you think of the craft of watchmaking.
Source: The New York Times
Watch auction season is starting soon. One of the more noteworthy auctions is the Only Watch event that is happening on November 9 in Geneva. It’s a charity auction with all proceeds going toward the research of Duchenne muscular dystrophy. On top of that, what’s special about this auction is that participating brands donate unique pieces to be auctioned. There’s a good chance that some of these watches will go on to become horologically significantly pieces. Here are all 50 watches that will be appearing at the auction. It includes some heavy-hitters like Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, and Tudor, as well as a wide selection of independents, including Voutilainen, Akrivia, and F.P. Journe.
Source: Quill and Pad