November 30, 2021
By and large, tool watch specialist Doxa’s place in the enthusiast landscape is dominated by one product line – the Sub 300 series. Although the distinctive chunky cushion case and radiant colors of the Sub 300 have been a defining feature of the brand’s lineup since the ‘70s, Doxa has a rich dive watch history outside of this central model as well. After its limited-edition titanium revival of the ‘80s-era, Sub 600T sold out in only three days after its debut in August 2021, it became a matter of time before this angular function-forward design made its way back into the brand’s regular production. As its latest release, Doxa goes all-in on this more aggressive vintage look, delivering the Sub 600T with a stainless steel case and a full spectrum of options for colorways, bezel inserts, and straps. The new Doxa Sub 600T line provides a bold and capable tool diver alternative to the traditional Sub look, without abandoning the brand’s recognizable dive watch spirit.
Measuring in at 40mm, the stainless steel case of the Doxa Sub 600T series presents a more compact profile than its ‘70s-inspired stablemates. Without the sloping C-case form of the Sub 300 line, the Sub 600T is more tightly packaged, aggressive, and utilitarian, with a sharply planar design that comes off as almost brutalist in images. Despite the stark simplicity of its angular lugs and flat case sides, Doxa bestows the Sub 600T with a fair amount of flash. The bright polishing of the broad tapering case chamfers breaks up the case profile effectively while injecting the design with a touch of refinement in images that felt lacking from the matte titanium limited edition Sub 600T Pacific. Although it stands as a marked departure from the classic Doxa diver silhouette, the Sub 600T carries on one of the brand’s stylistic hallmarks – its unique saw-toothed decompression scale bezel. Available with engraved inserts in matte stainless steel or black ceramic (navy blue for the Caribbean model), these bezels feature vibrant dial-matching highlights for an added layer of overall visual cohesion. Doxa completes the Sub 600T’s case with a solid caseback, topped by a sharp engraving of the brand’s fish emblem against a wave-pattern backdrop. The Sub 600T’s more purposeful look isn’t just for show, as the brand rates this series for an immense 600 meters of water resistance.
Much like the case design, the dials of the Doxa Sub 600T series take many of the brand’s signature cues and interpret them in a more purposeful, aggressive context. The Sub 600T’s “shark tooth” applied indices are a prime example of this philosophy. Rather than the striped rectangular indices of the Sub 300 line, the Sub 600T takes a slightly more conventional approach with its slightly undersized circular indices. However, Doxa punches up these familiar forms with bold pointed indices for 12 o’clock, 6 o’clock, and 9 o’clock. Doxa’s signature dial text at 10 o’clock and 4 o’clock also returns, but the Sub 600T eschews the printed dial crosshairs of the Sub 300 for a cleaner and more open look. Even the familiar broad straight sword handset is simplified here, with the hour and minute hands remaining proportional rather than the traditional undersized Doxa hour hand. While the look may be simpler overall, it still carries a fair share of nuance in images, and each of the brand’s six colorways gives the design a distinct character. Naturally, Doxa’s trademark orange dial Professional model is the centerpiece of the collection, and the delicate graining of the matte signal orange dial coupled to the deep gloss black and optic white of the hands and indices give this version a look that is as striking as it is legible. The classic matte black Sharkhunter (still one of the most evocative model names in watchmaking) may be the most traditional of the bunch, but the results are far from mundane thanks to blazing orange highlights for the minutes hand and indices. By contrast, the turquoise dial of the Aquamarine and the sunny yellow dial of the Divingstar give the design a livelier, casual character. Doxa wisely tempers these more exotic colors with hands and indices in pure gloss black, keeping the designs from becoming muddled or overcomplicated in images. For the navy blue Caribbean, Doxa keeps the basic layout of the Sharkhunter intact, but the addition of a rich deep matte navy gives this model a more inviting character than its counterpart. Lastly, the silver sunburst dial of the Searambler immediately sets it apart from the group, sacrificing a modicum of the line’s focus on pure utility for a more dramatic presentation. Doxa’s decision to equip all six variants with a white date wheel at 3 o’clock may prove divisive, but given the function-first mentality behind the design, this interrupting element is somewhat understandable.
Inside the Doxa Sub 600T beats the familiar Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement. The SW200-1 has been a staple of the Swiss watch industry for decades, and as more brands roll out refined next-generation powerplants, the venerable movement is beginning to slip behind in terms of performance. While it remains durable, affordable, and easy to repair, the SW200-1’s 38-hour power reserve at a 28,800 bph beat rate feels decidedly underwhelming in the current market, particularly given the stiff competition Doxa faces at this price point.
Doxa finishes the Sub 600T with either a cleanly modern dial-matching rubber strap or the brand’s three-link stainless steel bracelet. More angular and evenly proportioned than the familiar oyster-style bracelet, this brushed design meshes with the overall look of the Sub 600T handsomely in images while giving the watch a more upscale feel. By contrast, the colorful FKM rubber strap options help to modernize and soften the overall look somewhat and should provide a comfortable wearing experience.
With a sharper, more functional look than its more famous stablemates and a wide variety of available options, the Doxa Sub 600T series gives enthusiasts an aggressive alternative to the classic Doxa silhouette with a surplus of durable underwater performance. The Doxa Sub 600T series is available now through authorized dealers with MSRPs starting at 1,350 CHF for steel bezel models and 1,450 CHF for examples with the optional ceramic bezel insert. For more details, please visit the brand’s website.