H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Watch

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Watch

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Watch Watch Releases

H. Moser & Cie. is a small independent watch manufacture that produces only around 1,200 watches every year, and they are most well-known for their perpetual calendar watches. Unlike so many other perpetual calendar watches with busy dials, Moser’s are remarkably simple in design and easy to read. There are no complicated subsidiary dials for the months or date, just a large date window and a small pointer in the middle of the dial that points to the current month. Voilà - that's all. And in 2016, the brand started offering its perpetual calendar watches under its Pioneer collection, which is designed to be more casual and hardy. However, that model - the Pioneer Perpetual Calendar - was only offered in rose gold. Now, there’s an H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar watch in stainless steel.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Watch Watch Releases

Now, to be clear, this isn’t H. Moser & Cie.’s first perpetual calendar in stainless steel. That honor goes to the Perpetual Calendar Concept Funky Blue dial, which as you might have guessed from the name, has a fantastic brushed metallic blue dial. The new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel also has a blue dial, but it has a much more rugged and aggressive case design.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Watch Watch Releases

To begin with, the stainless steel case measures 42.8mm wide and roughly 11.3mm thick. Also, unlike most other perpetual calendar watches, it is water-resistant to 120m. Not only does this mean you don’t have to avoid getting splashed with water, you can even take it swimming if you want to. The higher water-resistance coupled with the more rugged stainless steel case, means this is a perpetual calendar watch that you can, quite possibly, wear every day.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Watch Watch Releases

The Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel comes with a "midnight-blue" fumé dial and applied indices adorned with a small plot of Super-LumiNova on the flange. The leaf-shaped hands are quite large and also feature Super-LumiNova which, together with the Super-LumiNova on the flange, help improve legibility in the dark.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Watch Watch Releases

The configuration of the dial will be familiar to readers who are well acquainted with H. Moser & Cie.’s perpetual calendars. There’s a big date display at 3 o’clock and a small central hand that shows the month. 12 o’clock is December, 1 o’clock is January, and so on and so forth. There is also a power reserve indicator at 9 o’clock, which is important because perpetual calendars are a slight pain to set again if you forget to wind it and the mainspring winds down. The leap year indicator, in case you are wondering, is on the movement side.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Watch Watch Releases

The movement is H. Moser & Cie.’s caliber HMC 800. It is a hand-wound movement that provides a power reserve of at least 7 days or 168 hours, and it beats at 18,000 vibrations per hour. It relies on two mainspring barrels for power and, like most watches that H. Moser & Cie. makes, features an interchangeable escapement module that was designed to reduce servicing times. The movement is hand-finished and has many decorated components.

H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar Watch Watch Releases

I must applaud H. Moser & Cie.’s decision to release a more affordable and rugged version of their popular perpetual calendar watches. The new Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel certainly looks handsome, and I especially like the unique blue dial and also the ingenious perpetual calendar indications. The fact that the watch has a beefier 42.8mm case and is water resistant to 120 meters is just icing on the cake. The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Perpetual Calendar in stainless steel is priced at $39,900. h-moser.com

What do you think?
  • I want it! (63)
  • Thumbs up (18)
  • Classy (14)
  • I love it! (12)
  • Interesting (9)
  • Ross Diljohn

    They had me until the price tag. Nice watch.

    • Chaz

      They had me even WITH this price tag. I’ll take this perpetual any day over Patek, AP, Lange, etc.

      I’ve got that lusting feeling that I ain’t had in a long time!

      • Saul Sloota

        Huge Boner & Cie.

        • I Cie what you did there

          • Since Cie means Son, I’m feeling very weird about Saul’s comment.

          • Saul Sloota

            Oh crap. Well the Huge Boner is on a business trip in Vegas, & Cie is at home with Mom de Cie. Better?

          • Not really – sounds like a bad porn flick.

          • Saul Sloota

            OK, his real name is Hugh Bonner and his adult Cie moved back home to help ol’ Dad run the Town Deli after Mom de Cie died in a freak air show accident. Too convoluted?

          • Not yet but you’re getting there.

          • Saul Sloota

            His last name was Moser. His first name started with an H. He had a son. And they made watches in a most sterile and bonerless environment.

          • Ryan – I need to talk to you (off-line). Please email me: mark AT markcarson DOT com.

      • DanW94

        It’s either the blue dial or the blue pills.

      • JosephWelke

        Whoa, that lusting feeeeling…

        I’ll show myself out.

        • #The Deplorable Boogur T. Wang

          “Now it’s gone, gone…gone..woah woah woooa…”

      • Gokart Mozart

        Also my favourite perpetual calender movement along with the Ochs und Junior. So simple to look at.

        It was actually designed by / or in collaboration with Andreas Streller. That explains why it is so cool.

        Personally I.prefer the normal case design as it’s more pretty and subtle.

      • Ross Diljohn

        Take a cold shower. It will pass.

  • otaking241

    I can’t say what I would have imagined a “sport” H. Moser would look like, but this is a lovely, lovely watch and an insta-“want” for me. Too, too bad about the price… Maybe they’ll have a three-hander in more affordable territory? With the grey fume, please??

  • Yan Fin

    Pure perfection.

  • Framlucasse

    Nice piece, but 43mm is too big for a dress watch.

    • Gokart Mozart

      That’s why this is their sporty watch. The normal one has no lume, solid hands and 40mm size, and more delicate detailing.

  • Saul Sloota

    How about on your next perpetual go-round you squeeze the day of the week in there somewhere.

  • Raymond Wilkie

    I don’t care how much it costs, or the pretty pointless ( no pun intended) month indicator…………i want it. i need to see this on me. I need to stare at it as the hands gracefully move around the stunning dial. I need to see how the light dances of the beautifully etched dial as i strut around with it on. I need to see that stunning movement and listen to its beating heart …..I need a life !!

    ps………I know what up and down is , and that indicator could have been stuck on the back instead of taking up space where it wasn’t needed. Other than that see above

    • Sheez Gagoo

      If you would have a life, your girlfriend would be behind you and ask for the 1 000 000 time, why you spend so much more time on this blog than with her. And why your Google history contains a significant less amount of porn than watch blogs. Then she would ask if your just weird or a nerd. Then you would watch watch related porn and everything would be ok.

      • Raymond Wilkie

        Making a lot of assumptions Sheez 🙂

  • DanW94

    Moser, more beautiful pieces like this one and less not so subtle jabs at Apple with those Swiss Alp watches…

    • Sheez Gagoo

      True, but without the ridiculous apple imitation almost nobody would ever had heard of Moser.

    • #The Deplorable Boogur T. Wang

      RE: An apple watch sighting in ‘the wild.’
      2 days ago I was inline at he corner 7-Eleven and there, right in front of me, was a Lady wearing an Apple watch. She also used her cell phone to check what time it was.

      It was an iridescent case model, if that helps date it.

  • Luciano

    Unfortunately I’m not looking at $40k watches, but this is a truly sexy piece (apart the 43mm case, which should have been 3mm smaller).

    • I look – I just can’t buy is all. Cheers.

  • SuperStrapper

    It almost looks like a cartoon of a watch. Something I might see on The wrist of some video game bad guy in a modern release. The features are bold and exaggerated.

    This is not a complaint. Very interested in seeing naked photos.

  • Sheez Gagoo

    The best Moser I`ve seen. Despite their modern marketing, the watches always seemed really outfashioned in a boring way. This one doesn`t.

  • Sevenmack

    Simply gorgeous!

  • Lincolnshire Poacher

    Okay they called it a sports watch to account for its size. But those looks are in the wrong scale. At 38-40mm it’d be a lovely sports watch/perpetual calender.
    To be honest I just can’t make my mind up about it. I’d really like to see it worn. For $40,000 there’s got to be far more attractive perpetual calenders, without the schizophrenic identity crisis.

  • BNABOD

    Looks awesome front and back but hot damn 40 grand . I must be in the wrong business.

    • Mikita

      99% of people are in the wrong business if we measure by this watch LOL

  • Mikita

    Probably the best looking line among the Mosers. You may find a simpler automatic version around 10k, but damn – I like Mosers to be mechanical!

  • #The Deplorable Boogur T. Wang

    Thank You Mr. Yeo.
    A very nice write-up of an excellent product.

  • IG

    I want it! Thumbs up Classy Interesting I love it!

  • Marius

    Moser is one of my favourite small brands, thanks to their cases, movements, and fumé dials. However, this watch doesn’t quite convince me.

    Aesthetically, this watch is quite attractive, especially if you look at the case and lug design. However, overall, I find the design a bit confused as the sporty case & hands clash with the elegant dial. Also, I’m not a big fan of Moser`s minimalist interpretation of the perpetual calendar.

    The movement is certainly interesting and nicely-finished. Yet, the decoration isn’t quite at a Patek or Lange level. More importantly though, Moser uses an interchangeable escapement system, meaning that when servicing the watch, the watchmaker simply takes out the entire assembly and replaces it with a new one. That’s a good idea because it makes servicing the watch easier. However, the problem is that this is a proprietary system, so should Moser cease to exist, you will find it extremely difficult to service your watch.

    Lastly, I find the price quite high. Granted, Moser is low-volume brand, but still, $40,000 is a lot of money for a steel watch with a very good, but not stellar movement. Personally, if I was looking for a $40,000 sporty perpetual calendar, my top choices would be either an IWC Portuguese Perpetual in white gold ($41,000), or a steel IWC Big Pilot’s Perpetual Edition Antoine de Saint Exupery ($25,000).

  • Still above my pay grade, but what a lovely watch. I love the understated design which really gives nothing up in order to display the correct date without distracting day of week and leap year indicators on the dial side. I like their big date implementation even if half of the days are a bit deep in the well (due to the dual date disk design with an aperature for half of the month which allows the other disk’s numbers to show through). Like the Rolex Skysweller, the use of the hour markers/positions on the dial for the month is clever and intuitive yet subtle. Love the fume dial as well. An automatic would be nice so the date could be kept set if this would not be a daily wear watch. But the long power reserve helps on the front. Reminder to self – wind the Moser every week.

    • PleaseSpellRoman4AsIV

      Not sure if the Skysweller is a typo or not but it made me LOL.

      • Word Merchant

        Should be Guy-Sweller because that’s what it does to me. Heh! Heh!

      • Fixed – thanks.

    • Gokart Mozart

      I think it is probably my favourite big date display on any watch, it is very clever.

      Apparently this is the only watch where the display goes from the last day of the month to the first with out cycling through the other date numbers. ie on April 30 the date will change to May 1st without the display showing 31, not even for a split second.

      I know it is not that important, but is very cool.

      • Word Merchant

        The Sky-Dweller also has instant date change, and instantly at midnight too, so would also jump straight from 30 to 1 and the month would advance. But it’s only an annual calendar so always needs adjusting at the end of February – it only knows about 30 and 31 day months. However the very clever ‘command bezel’ setting makes the rare adjustments needed very easy indeed to accomplish.

        • Gokart Mozart

          I know the date will go from 30 to 1, but the date wheel will go from 30 to 31 to 1.

          I know the date will change to the first in a tenth of a second or whatever, but for a split second you will still see the 31 displayed as the date wheel cycles from 30 to 1.

          The moser changes from 30 to 1 without having to cycle past 31.

          Not very well explained, but hopefully you know what I mean.

          • Word Merchant

            I do get what you mean, but it happens so fast with a single quiet click, that I certainly had no hope of seeing the transition.

    • Shinytoys

      Pay grade???? We don’t need no stinkin’ pay grade…:)

  • Phineasfreak

    Love it! Looks great and the dial is amazing. Side note:I´m really tired of all the little ladies bitching about the size. My monster wrists welcomes (almost) everything 43mm and above.

  • I’m torn. Gorgeous gorgeous gorgeous dial, unique case detailing, novel execution of an uncommon complication, coupled with a 2mm too big case size, one of the silliest power reserve displaies I’ve ever seen and a laughingly insulting price for steel.

    Is the WR really that much of a selling point? I’m not sure who in their right mind would go swimming while wearing a $40K dress watch on a leather strap in the first place.

  • Yanko

    The hands are so wrong for this dial.

  • PR

    Love it. I’m guessing the hands will probably look better in person. But otherwise stunning watch

  • Jesus Christ

    It’s a lot better than a lot of other Mosers, which I generally don’t like (though I like the CEO). How they manage to sell their watches I just don’t know. At that price, I’d get a Lange.

    But then again, I’m a poorfag so what do I know.

  • Shinytoys

    That is a fine piece of architecture for the wrist you have there…

  • Pete L

    Absolutely stunning and I would love one. For what you get I think pretty good value too although I am sure most in the market for this type of watch would prefer precious metal (not me FWIW). As with so many lovely watches on her though unfortunately out of my price range.