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Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch

Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

Just debuted by H. Moser & Cie is the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic watch, a brand new steel watch featuring — you guessed it — an integrated bracelet. Having handled and spent a long weekend with the Streamliner a few weeks ago, I was left highly impressed by the quality and comfort of the bracelet and charmed by the retro aesthetic that still feels uniquely Moser. While the Streamliner Flyback Chronograph will be limited to 100 pieces, this is the inaugural watch from this brand new collection, so it’s safe to say we can expect this bracelet and case to make its way to pieces in the future. Just about everything about the Streamliner Flyback is new for Moser, but it also boasts a watchmaking first by being an automatic flyback chronograph that exclusively uses central hands. That’s functionally impressive minimalism at its best.

Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

Before getting to the bracelet, case, and design, I want to discuss the new new Calibre HMC 902, which was developed by Agenhor with support from the Moser team. A totally new flyback chronograph movement, the HMC 902 turns the complication on its head and into a minimalist success by having both a central seconds and minutes hand. Using a retrograde system, the chronograph minute hand jumps instantly for very accurate timekeeping. The HMC 902 is a double barrel, column-wheel flyback chronograph made of 434 components and 55 jewels and features Agenhor’s lateral friction clutch and “Tulip yoke.” It operates at 21,600 vph and has a 54-hour power reserve, as well. Agenhor also moved the tungsten oscillating weight between the movement and the dial so the view of the movement is wholly unobstructed.

Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

According to Moser, development on what would become the Streamliner began five years ago. I am not sure if they had such a curved and clean case with integrated bracelet in mind, but I won’t complain because I was smitten with the end product. That said, like most everything Moser does, I can see it not being to everyone’s taste. Edouard Meylan, the CEO of H. Moser & Cie, describes the concept as such:

“We started with the bracelet, comfortable, elegant and different. We then designed this model around the chronograph function, as this was what we really wanted to highlight. The Streamliner is a chronograph which displays the time rather than a watch which features a chronograph. We preferred understatement, ergonomics, and legibility, opting for a central display with no sub dial: perfectly matching our minimalist philosophy.”

As the Streamliner was actually designed around the bracelet, I’m sure you’re wondering if it actually lives up to Moser’s hype, especially considering that we are currently living in an integrated bracelet arms race.

Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

The links of the bracelet really do resemble architectural fish scales when looking at their shape and how they taper down from the case. The wearing experience is highly comfortable and each of the articulated links allows for necessary contouring while not feeling too tight. Arm hair-tugging wasn’t an issue, either.

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Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

Everything about the bracelet seems to have the objective of seamlessness, beginning with the barely-there lugs and trickling all the way down to the folding clasp that’s adorned with the M logo. The articulating links allow for a comfort fit that’s as good as it gets, while the front of the links look totally clean and natural. Artistic, form-fitting, and immaculately done, the bracelet of the Streamliner Flyback executes a vision as well as any brand out there could.

Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

As for the cushion-shaped case, it measures 42.3mm-wide and 14.2mm-thick. The chronograph pushers. are at 10 and 2 o’clock, while the crown is down by 4 o’clock. This lends the case some slight asymmetry, which I think was necessary when you consider how symmetrical and minimal the dial is. There’s a mid-century UFO vibe to the case and bracelet that I’m really into, and the 1960s racing chronograph-inspired tachymeter and minute track tie the knot very neatly. It’s funny that there is such a strong mid-century aesthetic and identity to a watch named after trains from the 1920s and 1930s, but there you have it.

Impressively, the Streamliner Flyback outperforms even the AP Royal Oak Offshore Chronograph in water resistance. Where the AP gets 100M of water resistance, the Streamliner has 120M, so it should have no problem with underwater activation.

Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

While the dial may be minimal, it’s got a bunch of noteworthy components. First off is the fumé dial, which has a new anthracite gray color to it. Around the outer circumference of the dial are two tracks done in white and red. The outermost is for measuring seconds, while the inner track is for minutes. The ’60’ at 12 o’clock also hearkens back to the old days, drawing inspiration from stopwatches dated to the ‘60s and ‘70s.

Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

The hour and minute hands on the Streamliner Flyback are done in a way that I’ve never seen before by using two sections, with a curved outer section done in Globolight, a ceramic-based material that contains Super-LumiNova. This is is the first time Globolight has been used on watch hands, which is a fun fact, but more important is that they are highly legible and easy to read. The two central chronograph hands are done simply and elegantly so as to be legible and distinguishable from one another. The minute hand is rhodium-plated, while the seconds hand is done in a stark red that can’t be missed for anything else on that dial.

Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch Hands-On

The H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph automatic watch plays with expectations in several ways and results in a watch that delivers such a joyful wearing experience. The watch industry is going through a moment of integrated bracelets, but I really don’t see this watch being another addition to that category. It’s really not providing an alternative to some of the impossible-to-get steel sport watches because it’s just so quirky and true to itself. Between the bracelet, movement, and finishing quality, Moser goes above and beyond with the Streamliner. What they don’t assume is that their customers are seeking watches designed to appeal to a wide audience looking for another Genta-lite. The first of this new collection, the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph, is limited to 100 pieces and priced at $39,900. You. can learn. more at h-moser.com.

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Comments

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  • TNSL

    Such a nice creation of Jean-Marc Wiederrecht from Agenhor. Exactly the same idea I had when I saw the Singer watch. Very subtle chronograph. Such a clean look.

  • Gokart Mozart

    Absolutely lovely at first look, and a sports watch with a bracelet that I like.

    Lovely movement that looks like a manual. I wish they could finish it more like a Moser.

    Lovely retro modern cube without trti G to look like a Genta.

    • WINKS

      The title of the article is:

      Hands-On Debut: H. Moser & Cie Streamliner Flyback Chronograph Automatic Watch

      • I think he meant that they did a good job with the movement – it looks like a manual, even though it’s an automatic.

  • John

    I never heard of this brand until last Friday when I tried several of their watches on at Shreve, Crump and Low in Boston. I really love the brand. Every watch they had in stock were just amazing. Wish they had this one in stock so I could give it a look and feel what it was like on the wrist. Like the vintage vibe of this and the movement looks amazing.

    • Bilal Khan

      And this is why retailers matter.

  • Expat

    Love it, very nice. Not at all in my budget, but, it’s nice to dream. 🙂

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Totally bonkers. Not the most constructive comment but I can’t think of anything else to say.
    Horrible dial.

    • Berndt Norten

      This is a polarizing piece. I LOVE it. Moser, Glashutte and Lange. My Holy Trinity.

      The design is exquisite. The finish is too legit.

      I guess there’s no accounting for taste

      • Independent_George

        Not as polarizing as I thought, at least judging from the comments so far. The Dink’s comments are running at least 3:1 in favor, and I see, so far, the same here. Considering that most new, non-heritage designs profiled on ABTW run 49% love & 49% hate at the very best (usually it’s firmly tilted toward in the hate side of the ledger) Moser seems to have a relative hit, at least among the Commentariat.

      • Raymond Wilkie

        Their certainly is not. That’s why we have Urwerk.

      • egznyc

        Nothing wrong with that triumvirate. I might wish to include Breguet as an honorary fourth Musketeer ;-).

  • Jason 52

    Nice movement

  • Gadgety

    Fabulous bracelet, although the clasp could be integrated into the bracelet, the way that Bulgari does it on the Octo Finissimo; best picture anywhere on the entire web found here: https://www.ablogtowatch.com/record-thin-bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatic-watch/. I could see the Streamliner bracelet in gold, would look absolutely boss, and be heavy. Looking forward to future versions, perhaps with Moser’s central calender month hand.

    • Bilal Khan

      /platinum/

  • AlbieC

    Moser seems to be a company with the powerhouse ability and resources to create spectacular and exquisite watches of all kinds, from dress watches to bracelet sportwatches. But they also seem hell bent on being radically different –> eccentricity –> strangeness.

    I really would be interested for them to just do their version of a basic Rolex Datejust/ Omega Aqua Terra style – 3-hands with a date on a bracelet watch.

    • Bilal Khan

      I’ve dreamt of a Pioneer on bracelet, as well.

  • Gary Mark

    Is it a coincidence that the bracelet links look like an “M”?

  • Lingua Franca

    Look Ma, no subdials!

    • I didn’t even notice it was a chrono at first. Actually wouldn’t mind it as a 3 hander as it pretty much looks like one.

  • GalaxyGuy

    I’ve seen this watch in the metal, and it is pretty impressive, I must say. The finishing on the bracelet is exquisite and the dial really plays with the light. An amazing piece, to be sure.

  • Joe

    This gets my vote (unfortunately not my money)!
    Daring case and bracelet design with a very ambitious (and successful) movement.

    I thought the peripheral rotor wins the category when it comes to a highly visible, automatic movement but this the a next level up!

    I hope they bring further versions that are slightly more affordable 🙂

    • Bilal Khan

      What’s a few mortgage payments here and there?

  • Pete Yo

    Everything about this watch is great, except the bracelet. I keep thinking Speidel when I see it. Big fan of Moser, but this one missed the mark.

    • Bilal Khan

      That’s an interesting take, liking it all except the bracelet. Aesthetics are subjective, though I have to say that the wearing comfort is pretty much as good as it gets.

  • sozinattack

    Nice watch and stunning movement.”Underwater Activation” a step too far.

    • Mike Margolis

      Hi All, Mike Margolis from Moser Americas here. Yes indeed, we do state that the chrono pushers can be activated underwater.

  • Paul

    The rotor is located between the movement and the dial, to keep the view of the movement clear.

    And having seen the pics of the movement, I wish they could have used a more conventional approach to the Geneva stripes – this one looks like it’s been badly scratched up. Overall I love this watch, which is a very nice departure from the recent rash of Genta clones and Daytona wannabees.

    • Gokart Mozart

      They are Moser stripes. This wide and narrow approach was used by them in the olden days.

  • egznyc

    My vote is a definite yes! Weird and wonderful, it’s too bad I cannot vote with my wallet.

  • Ugo

    gorgeous.
    HM&C design department has balls.

  • BNABOD

    Yeah that’s a no dog. It is hideous and while I don’t deny some will like it for it’s quirkinesses I do not like it one bit. The case is bulky, the chapter ring a la Tintin omega doesn’t complement the watch nicely , the 60 at 12 is obnoxious but yeah the movement is superb but one doesn’t stare at that all day. So while a big fan of Moser even their Apple Watch this is a Big fat no for me especially at 40 grand

  • John Doe

    WOW. That one is awful. A Porsche Design rip-off or homage or ‘inspired by’. They totally missed the mark, but I’m sure there are 100 people willing to part with $39,900.

  • PR

    Looks like something Ebel and Porsche design would have come up with a decade ago. I’m not feeling it. Looks dated rather than retro and while the bracelet sure appears well made, the case shape overall with the really awkward 60 marker just cheapens the watch. Cool movement though but after following the build up to this watch, I’m disappointed. It’s a step back not forward and it’s disrupting in that it apes an old looking forgotten style watch rather than something totally new.

  • Independent_George

    I love all the people chiming in, after they clearly read all the posts regarding this watch, how it’s derivative of this and that, as if they had any idea, prior to the last 24 hours, of what this watch is or is not influenced by.

  • Richard Baptist

    Love this watch! A 60 minute Central seconds Chronograph with one of the most beautiful bracelets I’ve ever seen. I’m in love. I think this is a better presentation for the singer movement, from the original watches, much cleaner. I’m going to assume for this small company the development of this version of the Agenhor movement and a new case will result in more models using this case and also more chronographs using this movement – and what a movement!! Bravo Moser! Well done! I think seeing it in a video gives you some idea: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QrILSlSGCrQ

  • PR

    True and I think the bracelet is headed the right direction and to a degree the case as well. But the dial just doesn’t work for me in combination with the rest

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