For 2024, Swiss H. Moser & Cie. has added a “small complication” to its lauded and sporty Pioneer timepiece collection with the first Pioneer Retrograde Seconds watch. Debuting in steel, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds watch is an attempt to add mechanical interest to Moser’s watches without significantly increasing the price point. Thus, the larger H. Moser & Cie. collection can be looked at as having a) simple time-only watches, b) models with small (or “petite”) complications like this Retrograde Seconds, and then c) more complicated movements that include chronographs and perpetual calendars and tourbillons.
A retrograde complication involves any hand or indicator that moves along a specified path, only to jump back or make a return trip in the opposite direction back to the starting point. Although not new, retrograde seconds indicators add an interesting element of dial animation without materially increasing complexity. That said, they only modify the otherwise circular path of the seconds hand, so it’s debatable whether they constitute an actual complication or are just a different way of displaying a standard element. In the case of Moser’s Pioneer Retrograde Seconds, the hand moves across the scale every 30 seconds and then jumps back to the original position.
This debut reference 3250-1200 model has a blue “fumé” dial that goes from black to blue in the center with a gradient. The applied hour markers have adjacent lume points and the hands are painted with Super-LumiNova. Though there are no issues with readability here, no one is getting a timepiece like this for chronometric reading precision. The system is just meant to look cool, and accordingly, H. Moser & Cie wanted to make sure that the snail-style cam used to control the motion of the second hand is prominently displayed. The retrograde seconds indicator might be functionally regressive to a standard one, but it does upgrade the look of the dial here. That, combined with the relative lack of text on the dial (the brand logo is faintly present below 12 o’clock, similar to the Salmon Streamliner, but designed to be hard to see), gives the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds a handsome and modern look.
The Pioneer case here is in steel and 42.8mm wide and 14.2mm thick including the domed AR-coated sapphire crystal. I want to make an important point to share that H. Moser & Cie. has come a long way in terms of improving the glare-reduction of the crystals they use. This was an Achilles heel of some earlier Moser’s, but the company has taken this feedback into account and made strides in improving the reflectivity. Accordingly, the Pioneer Retrograde Seconds watch has a curved crystal that is more properly treated for glare reduction. The Pioneer case is water resistant to 120 meters and, here, comes paired with a blue rubber strap (the same one we saw on the Pioneer Centre Seconds Concept Citrus Green). H. Moser & Cie. also offers the Pioneer on an alligator strap or a matching steel bracelet.
H. Moser & Cie. built the retrograde seconds indicator as a module onto their existing in-house automatic movement. The module was developed by the Geneva-based specialist Aghenor and is certainly among the simpler mechanisms it has developed. The resulting movement is known as the caliber HMC 250 automatic operates at 3Hz with 72 hours of power reserve. I do think the Pioneer collection, with its emphasis on sporty looks and modern styling, should probably have a 4Hz movement sooner or later. With that said, visually speaking the H. Moser & Cie. caliber HMC 250 is a beautifully finished mechanism, and its anthracite bridges with Moser’s hallmark double striping can be admired through the caseback sapphire crystal window.
Legibility and handsome looks are hallmarks of the Pioneer dial and despite the addition of the complication on the dial, this remains true. We can imagine that H. Moser & Cie might adapt the HMC 250 automatic movement with its retrograde seconds complication to other watches, including those with more classic designs. The Pioneer is overall a good look and while this watch is large, it does meld sportiness with sophistication quite well. The price, while high, is still on par for the brand and represents one of their more affordable price points right now. The H. Moser & Cie. Pioneer Retrograde Seconds (Reference 3250-1200) watch has a retail price of $21,900 USD. Learn more at the H. Moser & Cie. website.
