TemptionUSA: What ideas did you have in the coin design of the case, from the very beginning of your thought process? When designing the case, with its size, did you automatically think to have a slight curve to it for greater comfort?
Klaus Ulbrich: Wabi-sabi tells us not to remove warmth from every “less-is-more” item as part of the ground rules of both (wabi-sabi and Bauhaus), such as “form follows function.” Therefore, the CAMEO has a simplified coin-edge design on the sides of the case and a cabochon in its crown to ensure warmth. The curved sapphire, which makes the watch very comfortable to wear is part of the functional portion. However, the tolerances of the curved sapphire and the curved case were hard to match.
TemptionUSA: What about the dial? How did you think of and design the dimensional look of the dial, both brown and SST, as they are quite different visually.
Klaus Ulbrich: Both are simple and meet “form follows function” ground rules as well as “less is more.” However, watch lovers are different. Some love dark dials, some adore light dials. The silver dial offers exceptional ergonomics in terms of readability as well.
TemptionUSA: What sets the CAMEO apart from other rectangular watches in the market? Is there a specific design element that you envisioned?
Klaus Ulbrich: You are very right! The CAMEO looks like an ordinary three-hand watch – but it’s not. Usually, rectangular watches are NOT waterproof, mostly 3 ATM at the most. The reason is the gasket around the top glass in the corner area is, in terms of waterproofness, not manageable. To achieve at least 3 ATM, most manufacturers make the corners roundish – therefore they are not really rectangular anymore. Our design goal was to be able to test the watches at 10 ATM and have a precise rectangular top sapphire with sharp corners. We achieved that by not having a gasket anymore at all but chemically bonding the top sapphire into the case. To hide the bonding, a tiny silver frame is applied to the sapphire from the inside. Very high-tech for a three-hand watch
The CGK Collection
TemptionUSA: What ideas did you have when you started the design of the CGK dial?
Klaus Ulbrich: We started the CGK series back in the 1990s, and had the foundation of wabi-sabi and Bauhaus already in our minds. Less is more, functionality, ergonomics, and so on to ensure aesthetics and unlimited actuality. It worked. The aesthetics of this 20-year-old watch are still, and will be, overwhelming.
TemptionUSA: Your personalization of the movement? The presentation that you wanted to make in the beauty of the exhibition of the mechanics that is visible from the back? How did you arrive at the final thoughts for the design?
Klaus Ulbrich: Mechanical watches are not watches just to keep time. They are a piece of jewelry. Each store offers e-watches for just a little money (quartz or the new smart watches) which are quite accurate. Mechanical watches please watch lovers enjoying the mechanical art work and the idea that the watch has no battery but runs on gravity. To give even more visibility of these fine mechanics, all our models have a see-through back. Allowing the owner to view and enjoy the movement with its blued screws, pearled bridges, enhanced rotor, and so on.
The CM01 ROSSO and Black
TemptionUSA: What ideas did you have in mind for the CM01 design? The lighter fit, the cyclops eye for the date?
Klaus Ulbrich: Besides the mandatory thoughts of wabi-sabi and Bauhaus, we wanted to create the world champion in terms of ergonomics and readability. We think it worked – the readability cannot be beaten. We came up with that – and on top, ensured qualities including keeping the watch light-weight and comfortable to wear.
TemptionUSA: What sets the CM01 apart from other mechanical round watches?
Klaus Ulbrich: To do the world champion in terms of ergonomics and readability, a cyclops eye magnifying the date helps. State-of-the-art in the industry is to glue such a cyclops eye to the top glass. This is, in our point of view, not a reasonable quality approach. Therefore, we chose a cyclops eye which is ground into the top sapphire from the inside and is not subject to abrasion and aging. [End Interview]
In closing, these remarks are from Herr Ulbrich, with very little editing. He is one of the few degreed Horologists in current times. I hope that this interview will pique your interest in the Temption brand. For more information, contact:
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