2020 has been a year for vibrant dial colors in watchmaking, particularly green and red, and as the year draws to a close Jaeger-LeCoultre has begun its 2021 celebrations a few weeks early with a timely burgundy dial take on one of its most enduring collections. The brand’s seminal Reverso collection will celebrate its 90th anniversary in 2021, and to kick off a year of commemorative designs Jaeger-LeCoultre has teamed with world renowned Argentinian polo boot maker Casa Fagliano to deliver a unique and luxurious variant that pays tribute to the Reverso’s original purpose. The limited edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano brings a warm modern color palette to the classical Art Deco design, resulting in a dramatic marriage of old and new, as well as dressy and sporting elements.
The iconic 47mm by 28.3mm rectangular case of the limited edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is rendered in 18K pink gold. In initial images the alloy used here looks to be paler and less reddish than many pink gold designs, adding a hint of warmth and modern masculinity to the ‘30s-era form. The case shape itself is pure classic Reverso, with its trademark triple grooves circling the mid case above and below the dial, but this traditional design conceals a modern quick adjustment feature. While rotating the Reverso’s central case to reveal the second time zone dial on the caseback, wearers are able to quickly adjust this dial’s hour hand with a small slider embedded in the 12 o’clock side of the central case. When either face is displayed, however, this slider is completely hidden for a cleaner look. Likewise, the rotation process also reveals hidden sunburst finishing on the inner surface of the rotating carriage, ensuring that even components that are invisible the vast majority of the time are finely finished.
As the name might suggest, referring to only one dial when discussing the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is slightly misleading. The design includes a main dial and a second time zone dial on the caseback, both of which receive drastically different visual treatments. The main dial is finished with a sunburst pattern in a deep Merlot red lacquer, giving some unique life to the classic Reverso combination of dauphine hands, railroad outer minutes track, pointed applied indices, and a minimalist small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. The second time zone dial on the other side shares the same pink gold dauphine hands and applied indices, but almost everything else is bespoke. The majority of the real estate here is taken up with an intricate clous de Paris pattern surrounding the silver circular dial, accented by a 24 hour day/night indicator at 6 o’clock. The dramatically different finishing and colorways between these two dials handsomely fits the split personality ethos of the Reverso line.
Jaeger-LeCoultre powers the Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano with the in-house Calibre 854A/2 handwound movement. Featuring a second time zone and 24 hour day/night complication, performance for the 854A/2 remains relatively standard with a 42 hour power reserve at a 21,600 bph beat rate.
The strap choice for the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is likely to be the most divisive element of this limited edition design. Envisioned and handmade by Casa Fagliano, this dial matching burgundy strap is made with segments of both cordovan leather and canvas. This is a nod to the traditional construction of polo boots, and stands as a loving nod to the Reverso’s original intention as a watch for the polo playing sporting gentleman of the ‘30s. In practice, the strap itself appears in initial images to be handsomely finished, but the use of canvas and its integration into this strap should spawn strong opinions among enthusiasts.
With a warm, modernist colorway and a few polished nods to the Reverso’s 90 year legacy, the limited edition Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano is a distinctive and handsome kick-off to a year of celebrations for the brand. Only 190 examples of the Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Duoface Fagliano will be made, available now exclusively through Jaeger-LeCoultre boutiques at an MSRP of $23,900. To learn more, please visit the brand’s website.