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For some, wearing a rectangular watch–or anything other than a circular one, really–can take a little getting used to.  “Tank” style watches haven’t been commonplace for over half a century, and it definitely feels different on the wrist than your normal round dress watch.  That said, it is a good kind of different; the type that reminds you you’re wearing something special, and it definitely attracts attention.  During my time with the Chocolate I barely took it off, and showed it off to a number of timepiece enthusiasts during a collector’s dinner in Manhattan.  The reception was unanimously positive, and the pink gold/brown dial received universal praise.

My only complaint with the Chocolate (and with the rest of the Tribute To 1931 collection, for that matter), are the overall case dimensions.  To be clear, it is beautifully and perfectly proportioned, and there is nothing “wrong” with it by any means.  My nit stems from the fact that it is just a little too long for guys with smaller wrists (such as myself), and with a 46.8mm length from end to end, there is a noticeable overhang at the top and bottom.  Does this ruin the experience of wearing it?  Not on your life.  But if I had the option of getting one just a hair smaller in length, I’d take it.

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IN COMPARISON

There is more to distinguish the Chocolate from previous iterations of the Tribute To 1931 Collection than just the color and case material.  Although it shares the same basic architecture as its predecessors, the Chocolate features a subsidiary seconds register on the dial, a complication not found on the earlier versions.  In my mind, this added detail on the dial really stands out, and adds additional “vintage” flair to the overall design.  After spending time with both the 2011 steel model and the Chocolate, I can definitively say I prefer the latter, even if it is just by a smidge.

In regards to the case, it is of course silly to think that anyone would ever actually play polo with a pink gold watch on their wrist (the Reverso was originally designed to be a watch that could be used while playing, and the reversible inner case was intended to be built-in protection for the dial).  The soft pink gold is far too precious to be used in an aggressive sport, and makes the reversible mechanism of the case design somewhat superfluous.  With that said, the backside of the inner case is a perfect blank canvas for a custom engraving, an option I would certainly take advantage of if I owned one.

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VERDICT

The Chocolate may be one of the most beautiful timepieces I have ever had the pleasure of wearing.  My preference for vintage looks notwithstanding, there is a lot to love about the simple, elegant lines of the case, the decorative striping, and the angular lugs.  The dial coloring is brilliant, and combined with the pink gold case and the delightful Casa Fagliano leather, it leaves a lasting impression on anyone who lays eyes on it.

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As you might expect due to its case material, the Chocolate is the priciest version in the 1931 Collection, and comes in just under $19000.  To some, this may seem like a lot for a manually winding dress watch, but is just about right in my mind.  There are plenty of other slim dress watches on the market right now, and many of them are quite good and considerably less expensive.  But none have the flavor and classical style that the Reverso exudes so effortlessly.

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In many ways, these modern adaptations of vintage Reversos are an answer to a question no one asked, but in the end is something everyone is glad Jaeger-LeCoultre supplied us with.  I think that question went something like this:

“What nearly forgotten, historically inspired, unusually designed, name-branded, high-grade timepiece could I buy for casual and dress wear that will stand out with a refined manner and put a smile on my face every time I put it on?”

Yep, that.

Necessary Data
>Brand: Jaeger-LeCoultre
>Model:  Grande Reverso Ultra Thin 1931 Chocolate
>Price: $18,800
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Absolutely
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Friends?  Who needs friends if you could have one of these instead!?
>Worst characteristic of watch: As with all Grande Reversos, the length of the case is a tad big and gives some overhang for smaller wrists.  While the proportions are correct, it would be nice to see another version offered with ever so slightly smaller dimensions.
>Best characteristic of watch: The color palette is exceptional, the dial and case combination is a home-run.


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