More retro-styled Longines watches? Oh, yes. New for 2014 is this collection of Longines Heritage Diver watches that come in two versions, including the Heritage Diver chronograph ref. L2.7188.8.131.52 and the Heritage Diver three-hand ref. L2.7184.108.40.206. Each of these dive watches is inspired by 1970s Longines sport watches, and they represent some interesting design features.
The tonneau-style cases in steel are typical of dive watches of the era, and it is a look I’ve personally always enjoyed, though this is one of the few times I’ve seen them with a 12-sided geometric bezel. As a dive watch, the Longines Heritage Diver has an internal rotating bezel (operated by the crown at 10 o’clock). At 43mm wide, these are not going to wear massively, but are not small watches.
Water resistant to 300 meters, the Longines Heritage Diver is a rather capable sport watch. There is healthy amount of lume on the dial, as is there 1970s styling, which can sometimes mean “too much color.” Nevertheless, the dial of the Heritage Diver is still very functional. Over the dial is an AR-coated sapphire crystal, and I hope that red color isn’t quite as bright in person. Actually, if the red was faded or had a bit of an aged look I think it might look a bit nicer.
Inside the Longines Heritage Diver watches are Swiss ETA movements with Longines named. Inside the Heritage Diver three-hand is the Longines caliber L633.5 which is an ETA 2824-2 automatic, and the Heritage Diver chronograph has a Longines Caliber L651.3 which is an ETA 2892-2 automatic chronograph movement.
Between the two Longines Heritage Diver models, I prefer the chronograph as it makes better use of the dial and the overall 1970s dive watch theme. It is an interesting watch, but I still think that Longines is stuck in a retro-rewind and I’d love to see some more contemporary fare from the brand in the future. Having said that, if vintage-style watches are selling well, then don’t expect too many changes soon.
Longines will supply two straps with the Heritage Diver that include a black synthetic strap that has the visual texture of canvas, as well as a black rubber strap. Price for the Longines Heritage Diver chronograph is $3,750 and the three-hand model is $2,550. longines.com