Omega’s New Co-Axial Master Chronometer
Inside its bunker-like case is the new Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer Caliber 8912 movement. Co-Axial you should already be familiar with – it is Omega’s proprietary escapement design (originally invented by George Daniels and painstakingly industrialized over the late ’90s and early ’00s by Omega and ETA engineers) that promises lubrication-free operation and, consequently, longer service periods. Master Chronometer is a new development by Omega and it refers to their ceaselessly extending range of movements submitted to in-house tests certified by METAS (more details here and here).
In short, in December 2014, Omega announced that it was teaming up with the Swiss federal institute of Metrology, METAS, to have it independently certify Omega’s in-house tests and that they would submit their Co-Axial Master Chronometer designated movements too. No, the watches are not certified by METAS, but the 10-day long testing procedures check fully cased up watches for timekeeping performance during and after exposure to 15,000 Gauss magnetic fields and in six positions and at two different temperatures and at 100% and at 33% levels of power reserve. Last, they test water resistance of the cased, complete watches as well.
The in-house made and METAS certified-tested Omega Co-Axial Master Chronometer 8912 inside the new-for-2016 Ploprof is largely based on the Co-Axial 8500 that preceded it. It has two serially linked mainspring barrels (in stealthy and cool black housings this time), with the typical and beautiful Omega swirling Geneva stripes and laser sharp red letters on both the movement plates and automatic rotor. Power reserve is a generous 60 hours.
The case-back features a very thick piece of sapphire – leaving absolutely no excuse whatsoever to brands who for some weird reason prefer to put solid case-backs on couple-hundred meter depth rated watches. I already mentioned the rather exquisite finishing, but I must also highlight the cumulative effect of the almost matte looking case and the shiny and pretty movement: there is a certain wow-factor emitted by the Ploprof’s inner beauty.
Finer details of the Caliber 8912 that I could appreciate include its utterly silent operation – although I presume the 1,200 meter depth rated case does dampen a fair bit – and the complete absence of annoying vibrations from the automatic rotor that is present to this day in many ETA and some rather “high-end” in-house movements. Omega has removed the date from the 4:30 position where it used to be on steel Ploprof watches, while the quick jumping-hour adjustment feature remains. This, after unscrewing and pulling the crown to its first position, allows for the hour hand to be advanced forward or back in 1-hour increments – comes very handy when traveling, as the minute and seconds hands keep running, so you can adjust for a new timezone without messing up the accurate time you already had the watch keep.
Summary
Admittedly, the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M reference 227.90.55.21.99.002 does a bunch of things completely redundant in the everyday lives of modern luxury watch buyers and collectors. 0.75 miles of water resistance (vertically, of course), a helium escape valve, a giant crown guard, and a shark-bite-proof bracelet with wetsuit extension are all stuff that you won’t need in the office, or driving from meeting to meeting, or even when traveling.
Yet, the Ploprof also does a bunch of things that many will totally appreciate and tirelessly love, things that only a Ploprof can offer. You see, because of said quirky features, the Ploprof becomes one of very, very few luxury watches available today that successfully match truly unique design elements, outrageous levels of beautiful over-engineering, exclusivity (you won’t see many of these around), a novel movement, and (finally) great wearing comfort.
Sure, no movement or material update – or botched Soviet-architecture reference – will suffice to change your mind if its, ahem, special looks are not to your taste. But if you want a package so complete (materials, design, movement) only a capable brand like Omega can offer, then the Ploprof is a better offering today, than it has ever been… and I just love it to bits. Price for the Omega Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Co-Axial Master Chronometer in titanium with the orange ceramic bezel, reference 227.90.55.21.99.002 is $13,800. omegawatches.com
Necessary Data
>Brand: Omega
>Model: Seamaster Ploprof 1200M Co-Axial Master Chronometer
>Price: $13,800
>Size: 55 by 48 millimeters
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Money no object? Yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Said friend will probably know and want it already – the Ploprof is typically the watch you yourself discover you like.
>Best characteristic of watch: Fantastic case that’s now more detailed and lighter. Great movement too.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Price; still a lot of heft on the wrist.
