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Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies’ Watch

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

Patek Philippe reinvented its primary ladies’ collection, the Twenty-4, last fall with a big launch party in Rome. It was a launch worthy of celebration. It’s not every day one of the greatest — and most conservative — brands in the world revamps a collection, especially its leading ladies’ collection. And it was a full five-reference introduction that essentially represented a brand new model rather than the redesign of an existing favorite. As a follow-up, Patek is now adding a High Jewelry model, the Ref. 7300/1450R. Although it is rare and expensive ($385,568), and thus aimed at a very niche customer, the jeweled Twenty-4 is a sign of how invested Patek is in the new collection and in building on it to create showpieces that will stand as future collectors’ favorites. (At auction, the most successful ladies’ pieces remain the gem-set pieces, which have the greatest intrinsic value.)

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

The Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

The original Twenty-4 launched in 1999, when the mechanical revolution was only just reemerging, and most ladies’ watches were still quartz. It was a manchette-style design, popular at the time but slightly outdated — although with Patek, nothing is every really outdated or stops being in demand. Would anyone say the 1518 is “outdated?” The new Twenty-4, on the other hand, is round, with an automatic movement (caliber 324 S C), and it is a full 10mm wider than its predecessor. The only thing about the new Twenty-4 that resembles the original, aside from the name, is the bracelet, with its distinctive link design, although the new one is more tapered.

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

The High Jewelry jewelry Twenty-4 Automatic is 18k rose gold, and fully paved with diamonds that are set in “randomly,” otherwise known as snow setting, which is to say the setting is actually not random at all — “random” refers to the multiple sizes of the diamonds used in this type of setting. In fact, the diamond setting is carefully planned and executed to accommodate diamonds of varying sizes, the result being an irregular sparkle, like sunlight bouncing off snow, that happens when you mix sizes together in a pavé setting. It is set with 3,238 diamonds totaling 17.21 carats. This includes 384 diamonds on the dial totaling 2.51 carats; 351 diamonds on the case totaling 1.94 carats; 13 diamonds on the crown totaling 0.06 carat; and a dazzling 2,490 diamonds on the bracelet totaling 12.7 carats. Whew! That’s a lot of snow.

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

The Twenty-4 contains caliber 324 S C, a full rotor automatic movement that is used in the Ref. 5711 and other Nautilus models (the hottest watch on the planet at the moment), as well as various Calatravas. It has a date display and sweeping seconds, the two things that elevate the Twenty-4 to the category of being a great ladies’ everyday watch. Even the quartz movement of the original was only hours and minutes. The highly readable font is another plus, and it is new to this model. The original had no markers except for Roman numerals at 6 and 12 o’clock. The new numerals are applied Arabics, in a typeface not seen before on Patek ladies’ watches. It looks more like the font on the new pilot’s watch.

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

The new Twenty-4 has the same rounded baton hands as the original 4910, but they are bigger, which goes along with the overall enhanced readability. And there is another big difference: the hands and numerals on the 7300 are luminated, another great design feature, one that is more in keeping with sport watches. The case size is also very contemporary. It is 36mm in diameter, as opposed to the comparatively diminutive 25.1mm of the original. By the way, Patek Philippe is always incrementally improving its models, and this by no means should imply that the older models are flawed in any way. The original Ref. 4910 quartz Twenty-4 is still hugely popular, and will remain in production.

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Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

There are five 7300 references, including stainless steel models with blue sunburst or gray sunburst dial, and three 18k rose gold options with a brown sunburst or “silvery” dial with a crisscross finish meant to resemble silk. The steel models are priced at $26,083 and the rose gold models at $45,361. The diamond bracelet version is $56,702.

Hands-On: Patek Philippe Twenty-4 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies' Watch Hands-On

The bracelet of the rose gold version, incidentally, can be partially set with diamonds (for a total of 1.88 carats), and the bezel on all models is set with a double row of diamonds weighing just over three-quarters of a carat. The decorated movement, including 21k gold rotor, can be seen through the sapphire crystal caseback, and the whole watch is Patek Seal-approved. The Patek Philippe Twenty-4 Ref. 7300/1450R Haute Joaillerie Ladies’ Watch is priced at $385,568 USD. You can learn more at patek.com.

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Comments

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  • Swiss_Cheese

    Well, the $26k one is about the only ss model readily available. I can attest to this as I overheard a man ask to see a quote “steel Patek” at the AD and was handed a blue dial twenty-4 and informed that that’s all they had in steel. The drought is obviously hitting hard because he tried it on before giving it back.

    Also, it’s a ‘interesting’ choice to use lumed hands on a $385k diamond watch. I suppose for when the lights go out on the Learjet.

  • Carmen Brisante

    You forgot to mention the matching earrings ?

    I remember seeing the advertisements for the Twenty-4 and wondering why a bride would wear a flieger on her special day. I can’t warm to this watch, but it does look classic and very legible, and no doubt the finishing and gem-setting on all models is sublime. The steel with blue dial would be my pick. It strikes a nice balance between flash and practicality, and looks versatile enough to wear with most outfits.

    • Joel Schumann

      Maybe it is an idea of what men would like to buy for their woman to wear?

      I actually really like the brown and grey models. My girlfriend loves blue so like you that would likely be her preferred model, but for me the blue dial is too sporty/casual for that kind of watch.

      • Carmen Brisante

        Interesting how blue+steel says sports watch to some, but just a everyday watch with a blue dial to others.

        And yes, I think you’re right about the target for that advertisement.

  • Pedro Lambareiro

    Lumed Hands are essential in any watch at a certain profession… specially when the watch is a gift.

  • William Jones

    Perfect for a Russian kleptocrat’s mistress!

    • Pedro Lambareiro

      And the lumed hands show that hour as passed in the dark…

  • SuperStrapper

    Why is there not a single picture of just the whole damn watch? Because it’s too hideous to partake completely?
    Unmolested it’s lovely, but no brand has ever made an attractive all ice watch. Some, like the Royal Blue are fascinating in their garishness, obviously due to all the actual horology in play, but just crusting an existing watch is phoning it in while driving under a bridge.

  • Yanko

    Kitsch

  • Steve_Macklevore

    At least you can see the expert craftsmanship that has gone into these watches, unlike a certain even more expansive brand whose cases are made from glass reinforced plastic.

  • Ugo

    uninspired and with an awful legibility…

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Wrong font.

  • seoulseeker

    “With patek, nothing is really ever outdated or stops being in demand”

    The Neptune would like a word..

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Oh go on, you know you want to : )

  • Dan Baxter

    I don’t get the whole “iced” watch thing. That is just ugly with a capital U.

  • Dakota Dennison

    Couldn’t they sell a lot more of these watches by removing the diamonds on the bezel and finishing the bezel. I think you have a very nice uni-sex watch at that point. They could probably leave the price point the same and sell if if they finished it like the Nautilus or Aquanaut.

    Anyone else have that same thought?

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