This latter indicator is similar to a “pointer-style” date but doesn’t have a distracting long arm that cuts through the dial at all times. For this reason, I am generally against date indicators which exist on the periphery of a watch dial. Here, however, Roger Smith has developed a “bucket-style” hand which exists under the dial only protruding with a blued-steel “bucket” that frames the current date. This allows for the elegance of a peripheral date indicator without the annoying extra hand that cuts through the dial.

As an annual calendar, the Roger Smith Series 4 Triple Calendar Moonphase will prove very popular, in my opinion. It is true that perpetual calendar watches are a bit more complicated, but I have yet to find someone who is truly annoyed (with today’s availability of calendars) to be asked to adjust their calendar once each four years. On top of that, the reality remains that most people with timepieces at this level don’t wear the same watch all the time – meaning the movement is likely to totally wind down. When that happens, setting the date on an annual calendar movement is decidedly more simple than setting the date on a perpetual calendar movement because you need to get that whole leap year thing down correctly.

Visually, the dial of the Roger Smith Series 4 Triple Calendar Moonphase is stunning, but note that each model can be customized for the tastes of the client. For this example piece, Roger Smith has shown off a large assortment of different hand-applied finishing techniques and hand-operated machine guilloche engraving in his typical style. I love the contrast between these elements, such as how the moon phase disc contrasts with the moon phase cover over it. The mixture of red gold elements on the sterling silver base with a touch of blue is also nice and the finishing on his hand-made and polished hands is excellent.

Wearability is very high for the Roger Smith Series 4 Triple Calendar Moonphase with its case that is 41mm wide (14mm thick). Here in 18k red gold, the Roger Smith Series 4 Triple Calendar Moonphase can be produced in any precious metal given the inherent customization that comes with quite literally making each timepiece one at a time, and by hand. Roger Smith doesn’t create everything that goes into each of his timepieces, but he does produce most things. It is a craft few watch makers would ever entertain doing and results in a brand that produces just a handful of watches each year.

For that reason, I can forgive Mr. Smith for teasing us with a movement-less timepiece, but why he needed to do it with four new watches, I am still trying to figure out! Actually, it makes sense because when you do what Roger does you need to make excellent use of your time, and orders occur far in advance of actual delivery dates. So you too can have an option of four new Roger Smith watches to order, which can be yours in just a few short years from now. Prices for the Roger Smith Series 4 Triple Calendar Moonphase watches will begin at £250,000 and vary depending on the level of customer customization. rwsmithwatches.com