In the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph these attention-requesting design elements are subtle, but show up in areas such as the gold ring around the main dial, as well as the design of the bracelet (among other things). The bracelet, for example, is perhaps one of the most curious parts of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 given its three-link design that uses “speed bump-shaped” lugs. The gentle yet distinct polished facets on the lugs are both masculine and act to play with the light in just the right – especially because it is in tandem with the slightly glossy finish of the soleil dial.
Such attention-grabbing qualities are mixed with deeply conservative elements such as the traditional plunger-style chronograph pushers and functional-looking Arabic numerals on the dial. This play of conservatism and visual sparkle is (for me) the secret sauce of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph’s aesthetic success.
With 100 meters of water resistance and a chunky metal case, the Tiffany & Co. CT60 isn’t designed like your grandfather’s dress watch. Despite the mostly conservative looks, Tiffany & Co. was correct in ensuring that the CT60 collection would perform dutifully as someone’s main daily wear. True enough, in all likelihood, the majority of Tiffany & Co. CT60 owners are not going to be strict watch collectors but rather those people who enjoy wearing a nice watch – but not necessarily those that have a large collection of them. For that reason, Tiffany & Co. wanted to develop something durable as well as stylistically versatile.
If the 42mm width (and roughly 14mm case thickness) is too much for you, then the three-hand version of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 might be more to your liking. I, however, like the more complex dial and movement, along with the more modern size of the watch. For all the focus on vintage looks, the Tiffany & Co. CT60 wears entirely like a modern timepiece. Some of my favorite design cues are the gentle tapering of the bracelet, the very comfortable fit on the wrist, as well as the finishing on the movement.
Inside the watch is a Swiss La Joux-Perret decorated automatic mechanical chronograph movement which appears to have the basic architecture of a 7750. The finishing is very handsome and strikes the right mixture between functionally-minded and luxurious. It would have been a real shame to find a less decorated movement in something with the Tiffany & Co. name on it. Of course, it goes without saying that it was a good idea for Tiffany & Co. to present the movement through the a sapphire crystal exhibition caseback.
Also, it might seem like a minor thing, but I really like the crown on this watch. The size and grip texture allow for the screw-down crown to be relatively easily unscrewed and operated while the watch is still on your wrist. Often times, one needs to physically remove a watch from their wrist to do this, and I like it when you can perform these operations with your fingers while the watch is still on. If anything, this reduces the chances of dropping the watch – which is certainly something anyone would want to avoid.
Aside from not having enough luminant on the dial, there really isn’t anything I have to complain about with this watch. People who do wear sleeves a lot might complain that the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph is on the thicker side. It isn’t the most svelte watch in the world, but that is quite typical with timepieces that rely on Valjoux 7750 architecture movements (that just aren’t very slim). For me, the snug fit on the wrist means that the size and weight of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph aren’t an issue, but if you are prone to having watches get stuck under your tight-fitting sleeves, then you might want to try one on first. Oh, and speaking of size, I want to also point out how the inwardly sloping polished bezel acts to reduce a sense of visual mass of the case when looking at the Tiffany & Co. CT60 watch from angles or directly from the side.
After living with the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph watch for a while, I’ve become very appreciative of a deeper level of design refinement that wasn’t immediately apparent to me when I first put on the watch prior to having had the chance to wear one for a while. The trick here for Tiffany & Co. was to create something unique and new, that was also classic and familiar. In that task, I think Tiffany & Co. dutifully succeeded. Even my colleagues in the watch industry who are typically skeptical of such timepieces readily agreed that Tiffany & Co. did a very nice job with the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph after I was able to show it to them off my wrist.
One of the most interesting comments I received a few times from people who closely inspected the dial of the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph was that it was “cool” for Tiffany & Co. to put “New York” on the dial under their name. Of course, at the bottom of the dial is the “Swiss Made” term. In many ways, this sums up what the CT60 watch is all about – a well-made modern mechanical high-end watch from the last remaining traditional American watch and jewelry luxury brand. It is conceived in America, but produced with Tiffany & Co.’s supply partners in Switzerland. That was the formula for past success of Tiffany & Co. watches, and I think it is a great foundation for the brand’s next foray into fine watch making. The Tiffany & Co. CT60 Chronograph in steel is priced at $6,750 on the strap and $7,250 on the bracelet. tiffany.com
>Brand: Tiffany & Co.
>Model: CT60 Chronograph
>Price: $7,250 as tested on bracelet
>Size: 42mm wide
>Would reviewer personally wear it: Yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Lover of easy-to-read conservative designs that nevertheless have a classy look to them. Also people who want a good all-around watch for daily wear.
>Best characteristic of watch: Slick combination of traditional appeal with modern wearability. Very good fit and finish along with attractive subtle refinements. Unique bracelet.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Case thickness might turn off those who wear tight sleeves. Could use more luminant on the dial. Arguably, slightly expensive.