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Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

The newest Tiffany & Co. CT60 watch for 2016 is the CT60 Dual Time, adding a GMT-style model to the collection that debuted with a three-hand automatic, annual calendar, as well as the two-register CT60 Chronograph (wrist-time review here). This fourth Tiffany & Co. CT60 model (well, fifth, if you include the smaller three-hand lady’s model) is the “traveler’s model,” and it’s a bit more than just the CT60 with a base GMT movement. Instead, Tiffany & Co. wanted to differentiate their dual-time watch a bit from the crowd, so let’s see how they did that.

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

At 40mm wide (water resistant to 100 meters), the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time was intentionally produced as a mid-sized piece and is the same diameter as the three-hand model. The chronograph is a bit larger at 42mm wide. The Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time further debuts in two steel models, as well as an 18k rose gold version. The steel models are this reference 36813903 with a “soleil blue” dial and steel bracelet, as well as the reference 36813881 with a silver dial on a black alligator strap. The Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time reference 36813911 has an 18k rose gold dial and black alligator strap.

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

Inside the watches are the Tiffany & Co. caliber TCO.5959 automatic movements which have been exclusively developed for them by Swiss Dubois Depraz. The movement offers the time, date indicator dial, as well as GMT hand. As you can see, the case has pushers just like a chronograph, but these are instead used to move the local time hour hand forward or backward allowing for an easy adjustment of the time while you are traveling. The GMT hand is not adjusted and continues to indicate a second time zone or your home “reference” time. Moreover, there is a small inset pusher on the case which can be used to quick-set the date. So the value here is in offering a GMT watch with just a bit more added user-friendliness to make traveling with the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time just that much easier to do.

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

Tiffany & Co. further designed the GMT indicator scale in two colors to serve as an AM/PM “day/night” indicator. At a glance, it might not even be clear that this is a new watch, as Tiffany & Co. appears to have put great effort into maintaining the core CT60 design, complete with legible lume-painted hands and gold “poudre” (powder) Arabic numeral hour markers. Over the dial is an AR-coated domed sapphire crystal which adds to the attractive, conservative look of the watch.

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

A quizzical design decision on the dial was how the “Dual Time” and then “Automatic” labels are used. Tiffany & Co. stacks the words over one another on the left of the dial, which makes the face look a bit asymmetric. I wonder why they didn’t just take these two terms (which are about the same visual size) and just put one on the left side of the dial and one on the right. Perhaps they experimented with that and it didn’t look best, but it seems to be something that would have enhanced visual symmetry.


Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

The movement can be viewed through the sapphire crystal caseback window and is nicely decorated. I’ve opted not to take full images of this particular Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time watch as I am checking out a cosmetically inaccurate pre-production prototype. The blue dial is attractive and helps add character to this stately and conservative collection, but for maximum legibility when it comes to reading the time as well as the dual-time-indicating GMT hand, it might be worth looking at the “white soleil” silver dial versions which are very handsome as well. On this watch, the GMT hand’s arrow is blue, which tends to blend in a bit with the also blue face.

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time Watch Hands-On Debut Hands-On

Travelers looking for an attractive and versatile timepiece to go with formal to business casual clothing will respect the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time, as Tiffany & Co. has seemingly worked hard to attract this demographic, and the less common ability to easily adjust the time zones is a welcome differentiating factor that makes this GMT watch a bit more special. Otherwise, the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time fits in nicely to the larger CT60 collection featuring the same case, strap, and bracelet designs. Prices for the Tiffany & Co. CT60 Dual Time watches are $6,300 in steel on the alligator strap, $6,800 in steel on the matching steel bracelet, and $14,500 in 18k rose gold on the alligator strap.

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  • SuperStrapper

    It is interesting. I’m still torn on whether I really like it or not. I appreciate the subtle nod to a more vintage style: It’s a modern watch with a throwback vibe, but it doesn’t try and force this too hard or try and pretend it’s something that it is not. The movement functionality is interesting, but I don’t like the look of a chronograph without actually being a chronograph.

    It looks like it sits on the wrist well and I’d be interested in trying it, and the slightly larger actual chronograph on.

    • I agree that the pushers give it a chronograph look. Perhaps more subtle ones (that were not piston shaped) would help. But if they are trying to have something of a vintage look, I suppose they favor the retro looking pistons.

      • SuperStrapper

        Agree. Although simple button-style pushers might have toned the look down a bit while still allowing the same vibe.

  • Agree that the “Dual Time” over “Automatic” placement throws off the symmetry of the dial. Otherwise OK looking and I truly appreciate the dual pushers that adjust the local time. All GMT watch movements should operate this way (+/-). Kinda of pricey but maybe the comes with the brand name.

  • iamcalledryan

    A bit of a confusing watch! The pushers make it look like a chrono. The Patek pilot dual timer places the pushers at 8 and 10, which seems to visually work better for such a complication. Honestly, with this one I think I would prefer a more discreet, crown-based option. The seconds hand and GMT hand are also a little confusingly similar. Of course when one is sweeping around the dial it will be pretty obvious what is what, but it just adds to the general confusion!

    It’s like when you think you are looking at a power reserve indicator or a date ring, only to discover that it’s a step-counter; I like the dual time complication, I just don’t like it dressed as a chrono I guess!

    • I hear ya about moving the pushers to the other side of the case. But a crown operation is too often dicey, you pull out too far and you are changing the time. And if the first position adjusts the date one way and a time when turned the other way (like an ETA 2893 does), then you can only advance. So the dual pushers are a practical solution for travelers to my mind.

      • iamcalledryan

        I agree, I think it’s the style and position of them more than the function itself. More discreet and at 8 and 10, and I’m in!

  • A_watches

    For me Tiffany is a highly desired brand for ladies jewelry. The brand power doesn’t translate to guys and watches, a bit like montblanc. Therefore the watches are not special enough to be able to charge $6.8k for an all steel gmt. I honestly cannot see why ANYBODY would buy this, but I’m sure there will be someone who would buy to impress the girl’s perhaps.

    • Agree on most points except perhaps Montblanc. I believe they are rather fairly priced and have traditionally been a “men’s” brand.

  • “I wonder why they didn’t just take these two terms (which are about the
    same visual size) and just put one on the left side of the dial and one
    on the right.”

    Or leave them off altogether. A three-hander doesn’t say “single time” on the dial. I thought Tiffany’s was a jewellery design house; there are too many little elements that need tweaking – from the red 2nd time index, to the too-visually-similar seconds/ GMT hands, to the unbalanced dial, to the unnecessarily large chrono pushers on a watch that isn’t a chronograph – that one would have to overlook to justify a near $7000 price. The Tiffany name isn’t really enough to carry this piece.

  • Sevenmack

    Very nice GMT. Would have been even nicer with applied indices instead of the poudre. At least it is less of a Shinola clone.

  • Marius

    When it comes to watches from jewlerry brands, there are only three decent options: Cartier, Chopard (especially the fantastic caliber 1.96), and Piaget.

    These Tiffany&Co watches are just pretenders. They pretend to be a high end watch when in reality they are simply mediocre: mediocre in design and mediocre in the movements that they use. I simply cannot see why I would pick these over any Tag, Tudor, Nomos that are half as expensive; or any Rolex, Omega that have a similar price.

    • iamcalledryan

      I would add Van Cleef et Arpels for ladies, and Harry W if you can stretch to an Opus. On the fence with Boucheron…

  • JimBob

    Looks weird on the TAG 2000 bracelet.

  • sfbaydawg221

    Why have a display caseback? There is nothing interesting to be seen in this movement.

  • smoothsweeper

    I really admire the aesthetics of Tiffany’s new line. The poudre gold looks amazing in that font, and the colors work oh so well. It’s an excellent design which screams “New York” and good on them for achieving that. It’s actually really rare for a product (let alone an entire line of products) to be both very distinctive and conservative at the same time and I think their new watches achieve that in spades.

    The pricing is just too darned high, though. Tiffany’s isn’t a manufacture [yet] and even if they were, they’re not remotely as recognized (as a watch brand) as Rolex, Tag, Tudor, etc…. There’s just so many good brands priced lower that it simply doesn’t make sense. It looks like they priced themselves in the market what wanted to be in, with little regard to the watch’s intrinsic properties VS the competition.

  • peter_byford

    No reply to any individual comments, as each submitter has essentially covered all my feelings both about Tiffany as a Co & their watches. Unfortunately, the Tiffany Co thing overshadows ANY watch they bring to market. As a Brit’, maybe it’s because I don’t get to see the brand as prolifically here as it is in US, so I’m well stuck in the era of ‘ Breakfast at Tiffanys ‘ Peppard & Hepburn & that era. Cartier is omnipresent & I’m glad Piaget got a mention. I confess to thinking Cartier just sold 3rd party watches, but not so, they manufacture their own movements which include some pretty impressive calibres. Piaget cover both jewellery & watches to a pretty high standard ( vintage & modern ) so I doubt Tiffany has anywhere near the same presence here except for megamoney diamond jewellery. ……………….As to this particular piece , I think it’s ok but overpriced IMHO.

  • Gary K

    On the blue one, why is the hour hand already past 1 when the minute hand is well before the top of the hour?

  • lateign

    kind of cool design. I have Rolex explorer II. this one could easily complement my collection. 🙂

  • Stefano Pappalettera

    I own a CT60 40 mm 3
    hands and I find it very cool and distinctive with respect to he common Rolex
    and Cartier that everybody owns. Well done!

  • Simone Buratti

    Nice watch! I love the design. Very masculine.

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