When it first appeared in 2017, the Timex Marlin made its debut as a classically styled dress watch with a simple time-only dial and a manually wound movement. In the years since its launch, the Marlin has appeared in a number of different forms, including automatic models, and some that even feature the various Peanuts comic characters. With that in mind, despite their various sizes and styles, all of the Timex Marlin watches have featured round cases and straightforward three-handed movements up until this point, although the latest release from the brand represents a departure from this familiar format. Officially known as the Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial, the most recent addition to the collection offers a more relaxed and casual take on the Marlin’s vintage-leaning style with a cushion-shaped case, a 24-hour subdial, and subtle colorful accents.

Crafted from stainless steel and finished with brushed and polished surfaces, the cushion-shaped case of the Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial measures 39mm in diameter by 9mm thick, although I’m fairly certain that these dimensions are just for the case itself and don’t include the slightly domed mineral crystal that sits on top of it. At the 3 o’clock location is a “MARLIN” signed crown that offers access to the movement, while the screw-on caseback features an engraving of a marlin fish and helps create 50 meters of water resistance. In addition to being secured by four small screws, the caseback also includes a small circular display window that offers a limited view of the movement, and the underside surface of the window appears to feature a red vertical stripe, which I can only imagine is intended to be an additional highlight of color that mirrors the red 24-hour hand on the dial.

Available in three different configurations, two of the Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial watches are fitted with silver dials that have a subtle vertical brushing pattern and black printing, while the third variant has a black dial with white text. Additionally, on the two silver dial models, the trio of centrally-mounted hands is blue and the hand for the 24-hour sub-dial is bright red, while the three centrally-mounted hands are finished white on the black dial model. Regardless of their color differences, all of the dials fitted to the new Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial watches feature an identical layout with printed Arabic numerals, a railroad-style minute track, a date window at the 3 o’clock location, and the model’s signature sub-dial with a bright red 24-hour hand sitting opposite the date display at the 9 o’clock position.

Powering the new Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial lineup is the Miyota 8217 automatic movement, which is a slight variation of the popular Cal. 8xxx series that features both a date display and an additional 24-hour hand sub-dial. Aside from having a fourth hand, the underlying design of the Miyota 8217 is very similar to the various other Cal. 8xxx movements, and it offers a proven design that runs at a frequency of 21,600vph (3 Hz) with a power reserve of approximately 42 hours. Lastly fitted to the 20mm lugs of the new Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial watches are two-piece leather straps, with the silver dial versions receiving either a brown or blue strap, while the black dial model gets fitted with a matching black leather strap, and all three options are completed by signed stainless steel pin buckles and quick-release spring bars at the lugs.

Given their mechanical movements and stainless steel cases (rather than plated brass), models from the Marlin lineup are inherently a bit more expensive than the normal quartz Timex watches that you typically see on most people’s wrists. Additionally, as the Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial is the most feature-packed version of the Marlin currently available, it is also among the most expensive options with an official retail price of $269 USD (although this only makes it about ten bucks more than the standard automatic time-and date models). While the original Timex Marlin was categorically a dress watch when it came to its styling, most people actually ended up wearing their Marlins as fun and funky everyday timepieces, and the new Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial only further leans into that more casual approach with its relaxed retro-inspired design. For more information on the Timex Marlin Automatic Sub-Dial, please visit the brand’s website.