SIHH 2016 was all about the Reverso for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Hardly any other new models were presented, apart from minor updates, as the focus was clearly on this iconic piece with a reversible case, originally designed in 1931. Worry not, though, as beyond main collection “tribute” pieces, Jaeger-LeCoultre had a both aesthetically, as well as technically stunning new Reverso waiting for us. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute Gyrotourbillon was JLC’s own spin on the tourbillon, the gyrotourbillon, with its two perpendicular axes, and fitted into a Reverso case that is some 40% smaller than the original Reverso Gyrotourbillon 2. Needless to say, the latest version is a real stunner and one that by scaling the original complication down, actually took the Gyrotourbillon to the next level. Price will be around $270,000.
The Vacheron Constantin Overseas collection is the 250-year-old manufacture’s weapon of choice in the highly competitive luxury sports watch segment. The problem is (or rather, was) that it had not actually been very competitive. With a not very modern movement and a rather unique, but again, not that up-to-date design, the Overseas needed to an overhaul to catch up with its main rivals, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak (hands-on here) and the Patek Philippe Nautilus (hands-on here). Vacheron Constantin did what it had to do, created a new in-house, manufacture movement, updated the case design, and added a quick strap release system – in addition to now offering some genuinely stunning new dial options as well. The Overseas is back – check our full article linked to just above for all details. Pricing starts at $19,900 in steel and $39,600 for the 18k pink gold “Simple-Date,” while for the chronograph it is $28,900 for the steel versions and $49,000 to go for the gold.
Parmigiani celebrated its 20th anniversary with a quiet bang – if there ever was one. The Parmigiani Tonda Chronor Anniversaire had no pre-releases or teasers prior to SIHH 2016. What happened was that upon our meeting with the brand, we were simply presented with what may be one of the most impressive all-new, high-complication and, relatively speaking, competitively priced movements that we have seen in recent years. A fully integrated, double-column-wheel, split-second chronograph caliber made entirely of 18k gold, the Tonda Chronor came out of the blue and surprised us all, serving as a worthy new piece to celebrate the brand’s 20th anniversary. Price for this complicated piece with a solid gold case and movement is $135,000.
The MB&F HM6 is a real Horological Machine in the sense that it sports a totally unique design – one that will make you love it or hate it, but one that certainly won’t leave you feeling indifferent. The beauty – or, let’s just say, the power to surprise – is not skin-deep. As is the case with all MB&F Horological Machines, there is a bespoke, totally unique movement inside, engineered to fit the case. The solid case of the original HM6 (hands-on here) allowed for a limited view of the movement – and that changes drastically with the MB&F HM6 SV. Thanks to its sapphire top and bottom covers, the full movement (that we checked out and explained exclusively here) can now be appreciated down to its finest details. Price is $368,000 or $398,000 for the gold and platinum versions, respectively.
The way Richard Mille implements state-of-the-art, ultra-high-tech engineering into mechanical timepieces puts the teenage Swiss luxury brand into what is pretty much a class of its own. When it comes to mind-alteringly over-engineered and complicated watches, Richard Mille – in collaboration with the skunkworks of Audemars Piguet Renaud & Papi – develops some insanely novel movements and pairs them with bold cases of matching complexity. This recipe has been applied to the Richard Mille RM 50-02 ACJ, their first piece to go with the brand’s new partnership with Airbus Corporate Jets. Styled by Richard Mille and ACJ’s lead creative designer to mimic the look of jet windows, the Richard Mille RM 50-02 sports a split-seconds chronograph movement specked with a tourbillon, all set inside a titanium, aluminum and ceramic case. Price is up there in the sky as well, at $1,050,000.
Greubel Forsey Signature 1 (Hands-On coming up)
The Greubel Forsey Signature 1 (SG01) is a new concept for the brand. Not only does it not feature a tourbillon, the Signature 1 is a collaborative design and is co-signed with one of GF’s talented watch makers – Didier J.G. Cretin. Despite being a less complicated design, the Signature 1 manages to exude the same appeal as GF’s more complicated pieces. Featuring an in-house balance system with a large wheel and a 3Hz rate, and the (very limited) option of a steel case, the Signature 1 is Greubel Forsey’s latest entry-level model, and it’s nothing short of stunning. With only 66 being produced and just half of those being available in steel, the SG01 starts at $170,000.
Found among a near complete overhaul of IWC’s pilot’s watch lineup, the Timezoner Chronograph features a winning mix of IWC styling and useful complications. With a simple turn of its world time bezel, this $11,900 automatic in-house chronograph can jump time zones in a flash while tracking the date (both forward and back), as well as 24-hour time and DST in any selected timezone. In steel and 45mm wide, this is a pilot’s chronograph designed for the nomadic adventurer in all of us.
If you’re going to swing big for SIHH, you add a tourbillon to one of the most respected high complications on the market today. With the Datograph Perpetual Tourbillon, A. Lange & Söhne has done just that and taken the legendary Datograph to a new level. With the tourbillon seen only through the display case back, the new L952.2 calibre manages a flyback chronograph, perpetual calendar with big date, moon phase, and the tourbillon with stop seconds – and it looks damn good while doing it. This 41.5mm platinum Lange is limited to 100 units and will set you back some €295,000.
Sometimes seeing is believing. That’s certainly the case when experiencing Panerai‘s new Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio (PAM655), which features a crisp white dial in a nicely wearable 42mm polished steel case. The first Radiomir 1940 with a white dial, the PAM655 features a nicely legible dial with black numerals supported by faded-lume markers and hands, a combination that is an enticing match for the included tan nubuck leather strap. Fitted with Panerai’s P.4000 micro rotor 4Hz movement, the Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days Automatic Acciaio carries an impressive $10,000 price tag.
Available in both steel and 18k pink gold, the new Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel is an enticing mix of accuracy and eye-catching skeletonized details. Using a second balance on the same axis, the Double Balance Wheel system manages increased accuracy and stability for this beautifully skeletonized 41mm Royal Oak. Measuring just 9.9mm thick with hands and markers in pink gold, the Royal Oak Double Balance Wheel will cost $44,100 for steel and $76,800 in pink gold.