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Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

We looked forward to seeing new iterations of Tudor's highly successful Heritage Black Bay line at Baselworld 2017 – but this is something that we didn't expect. A new chronograph watch with an "outside group movement," it is officially called the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono. In short, its surprising combination of typical chronograph and dive watch design elements powered by a new-for-the-brand chronograph movement leaves us with a lot to discuss.

We've covered the Tudor Heritage Black Bay several times in the past, and for all details you could possibly want on it, check out our comparison test of the Heritage Black Bay Black and the Rolex Submariner 114060 here. In a nutshell, the most notable contributors to the success of the Heritage Black Bay beyond its competitive price point are its great legibility, powerful in-house movement, and perhaps above all else, its elegant, clean, purposeful looks.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

With the Heritage Black Bay Chronograph, Tudor has added a new and, again, sort of unexpected element by turning a full-on dive watch into a "diver chronograph" – a very sensitive, complicated combination that we have seen both work well and not work well in the past. A quick rundown of the mixed elements in this watch are as follows: the tachymeter scale, two sub-dials at 3 and 9 o'clock, central seconds hand and two screw-down pushers for the chronograph; a highly legible dial with large and bold indices and hands, the red "meters first" text and the so-called "big crown" for the diver.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Tudor made a risky move by merging all these traits to pretty much completely remove the Heritage Black Bay from its comfort zone of being a clean-looking, vintage-inspired dive watch and turn it into what we could best categorize as a diver and/or sporty chronograph. The boldness of the move comes in how watch enthusiasts (many of whom are Tudor fans and customers) often tend to prefer single-purpose designs and purpose-built products to feature-laden and multi-purpose ones as the former tend to age and look better and also work with a wider range of situations and attire.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Tudor thus far has pretty much excelled at nailing this "purpose built" ethos throughout its Heritage Black Bay, Pelagos (reviewed here), and even their Heritage Chrono (reviewed here) lines. Now, the Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono is the first to really go in a totally different direction and blend two into one... Which begs the question, can it win the hearts of both Black Bay and Heritage Chrono enthusiasts, find a new customer base, or suffer from what some do-it-all products do and fall to the floor between two chairs?

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

In steel and at 41mm wide, it is as wearable and comfortable as any Black Bay before, and the leather straps are especially good this time around, though we are still not fans of the woven straps. There also is a riveted bracelet that we saw debut last year when the Heritage Black Bay received its update from an ETA movement to Tudor's in-house caliber. Wearability, therefore, is still great and the sizing remains timeless – if you want a larger Black Bay you'll have to go with the bronze iteration. Water-resistance is rated at 200 meters (as is noted on the dial with a vintage-watch-enthusiast-enticing red lettering) thanks to the screw-down crown and pushers.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chrono debuts the brand's new chronograph caliber MT5813, a column-wheel, vertical clutch and silicon balance spring-equipped, COSC chronometer-certified caliber. Serving as its base is the Breitling Caliber B01, Breitling's flagship chronograph movement and, in fact, the Tudor Caliber MT5813 is manufactured by Breitling but updated with Tudor's proprietary adjustable moment of inertia balance wheel, hairspring, and finishes.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Though the proprietary movement is manufactured by Breitling, the solid case-back of the Black Bay Chrono does say Calibre Manufacture twice on it. In return, Breitling will receive Tudor's MT5612 calibre (a three-hand with date) and use it as their Breitling B20 (as in the new Superocean Heritage II). So yes, Tudor and Breitling are sharing resources in what the brands refer to as a "complimentary partnership" of offering services to one another – an intelligent move considering both the history and present state of the watch industry.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

Power reserve is an impressive 70 hours and operating frequency is an expected 4Hz. Indications include hours and minutes via the typical Black Bay handset, two sub-dials with running seconds on the left and a 45-minute counter on the right and, new for the Black Bay, a white date at six. Legibility overall is good, with only the curved crystal's occasional glare and the large snowflake hand covering most of a chronograph sub-dial hindering it. The interesting, subtle texture of the dial helped highlight the shiny hands more, though black dials will always be outperformed by brighter ones when it comes to legibility.

Tudor Heritage Black Bay Chronograph Watch Hands-On Hands-On

The date window and tachymeter scale are two design elements that frequently cause controversy in modern watchmaking and this is especially true when you think about the Black Bay's successful and well-loved clean/undisturbed lines. The date at six o'clock makes for a balanced and symmetrical look but the black on white text, and the square cut-out against the round indices makes it stand out more than would arguably be ideal.

About the Author

David Bredan (abtw_david) is a young watch enthusiast based in Budapest, Hungary. He is dedicated to understanding, revealing and discussing as many aspects of fine watch making as possible. Fascinated by the countless admirable details of haute horlogerie, he strives to discover the challenges linked to the manufacturing of fine timepieces and also those related to chronometrical performance. As much as he loves unfolding the mysteries of mechanical timepieces, he also aspires to successfully capture and share the nuances that separate a fine watch and a masterpiece.
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  • HectorAsuipe

    I’m with you on the Tudor=Black Bay thing. And while I know there is a place called “Black Bay” and there is a need to differentiate the red bezel model from the blue and the black, the naming conventions for the line are so obnoxious that I will never buy one. There is nothing about this watch that makes it “Black Bay” and so they should have just added a splash of color to move it over into the Heritage chrono line. But I am sure there are some Tudor fanboys out there (and I use the term in the pejorative sense) who will want one of every Black Bay variant, so go ahead and buy it.

    All that aside, it is an okay watch if you want to know your Jet-Ski’s speed. Assuming a grey market price of $3750, one could do worse for a quality chronograph.

  • Pete L

    Something really cool about this. Love on the leather strap and personally would wear over a Daytona.
    Agree that it could fall between categories though and not sure if it would get enough wrist time to justify purchase – although that will undoubtedly change when I try the bloody thing on!

  • A_watches

    wasn’t sure about the “baytona” at first but it has really grown on me. I would like to point out the old school rolex chamfer on the lugs :). Also i would do away with the riveted bracelet

  • Looks like the love child of a Rolex Daytona and an Omega Speedmaster – with a heart transplant from Breitling. Pleasing enough (and the movement seems to be killer) but does it really have its own personality or is it just a bit of this and that from other iconic watches? Then again, I do prefer it over the original with its trapezoidal registers.

    • Dan Patrick

      It looks exactly like an Omega Speedmaster ’57 to my eye. Granted, there are only so many places you can place subdials, but wow, that is strikingly close to ‘homage’ territory.

      • I agree and besides the subdials, its the raised (or “box”) crystal that does it for me. The numbers on the bezel are what makes me think of a Rolex Daytona.

    • Gokart Mozart

      I prefer the original, except for the crown guard.

      Each to their own I suppose.

      • The original has its own distinctive look (iconic even?) but I’m not sure its a look that would garner much wrist time from me. Cheers.

  • Word Merchant

    I never quite understand why, but sometimes when I look at a watch, I know (for me) that it’s not a bracelet watch. This is definitely not a bracelet watch, but certainly looks good on a leather strap. I’d have made the date wheel black, or better still, ditched it altogether. I like this watch very much, but I don’t yet love it.

  • ??????

    Looks lovely and somewhat overthought at the same time. It feels like a frankenwatch, a bit: the handset works well for a diver, but for a chrono?.. Wouldn’t consider this at 5k.

  • MEddie90

    The watch is not the worst thing I’ve seen but I think it would be better served as a more dedicated sport/chrono. Drop the large hands, dial markings and Black Bay title and make it an affordable, slightly less stale alternative to the Daytona. A watch without a timing bezel is not a true dive watch (unless you expect someone to take time out of their dive to read the time of the small subdial) so make it it’s own thing.

    The B01 is a great choice of movement, well thought out, good power reserve and some impressive modifications from Tudor but it’s a deceptive for them to use the “caliber manufacture” label given as it is not designed or manufactured by them.

  • Golgo

    Great review. I was expecting a very polite review not mentioning the obvious that from a first hand perspective blending element of a purpose built watch (black bay) with a chronograph is odd. My black bay design lose a bit of value to me now as it becomes ubiquitous with other model (especially the hand!!)

  • SuperStrapper

    Love the movement, but the watch is disappointing. It just looks like it’s trying to be too many things at once, little about the design is cohesive.

  • Pistol Pete

    A fan of the BB divers (I’ve owned 3), I can’t say this does anything for me. It just doesn’t seem to have an identity of its own. As others have said, it does look like a bit of a frankenwatch. The snowflake doesn’t work well with the subdials, the 45-minute totalizer seems odd, and I don’t think diver chronos are ever well executed. It’s trying to be too many things at once.

  • drThrillman

    Doesn’t do it for me like the divers do. I think the hands are too skinny for the watch and makes the dial balance look off. My personal 2 cents tho. Someone else may love it

  • SPQR

    “Tudor has added a new and, again, sort of unexpected element by turning a full-on dive watch into a “diver chronograph” – no Tudor has not created a diver chronograph as there is no ISO 6425 compliant unidirectional rotating diving scale bezel. This watch is a chronograph with good water resistance. A true diver chronograph has to have both the chronograph functions and the dive watch ISO 6425 elements as well for example the IWC Aquatimer IW376801 or the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 215.30.46.51.01.002. I tend to agree with the comments on the article that this watch is a little “odd” and “off” compared to the other Black Bay watches. perhaps if Tudor had taken this watch in the direction of the Heritage Chrono it would have ended up too much like a Rolex Daytona and would have stolen sales from that particular cash cow.

  • gw01

    I think we all respected Breitling when they took the plunge and went in-house. Now both brands show great sportsmanship by having the openness and humility (balls) to run a collaboration.

    From a purist’s looking glass it’s an abominating Frankenwatch and we should round up the good picket-forked townspeople and go lynch the thing. However, at an irrational level this watch’s design has something that makes the imagination go… I don’t know if it’s the red text line in the dial, or the Daytona-esque features, or the denim-like textile strap, but just seems to be a great wrist-partner if one were to do something crazy like be a part of a dune buggy race though Dakar or something (in the morning), suit up for a business meeting in the afternoon, then go for cocktails at night, finally end the day with a quick dip in the hotel pool.

    I’ll wait a bit… I’ll wait for the incoming Panda dial iteration.

  • Greg Dutton

    Just give us a big block re-issue, or give us a BB chrono with a proper dive bezel (and preferably 12 hr register). This watch is neither and is very unsatisfying.

  • BNABOD

    i really want to like it. I really do but….. It looks best on a leather strap which somehow gives it some personality and it needs it. The movement is good but I recall the B01 pushers being so flippin hard. Either way one would have to see it in the flesh but when you have to move it around 15 different ways to get an angle that pleases you then chances are this is not the one. the price on the other hand is good though. Just wish the rest was more coherent

  • DanW94

    Reminds me of that cousin that can’t quite put his life together and tries a hundred different things and doesn’t do any of them very well, but you still like him because he’s actually pretty cool and fun to be around. (Not to mention he’s the only one willing to help you move, using the van he also lives in)

  • Omegaboy

    To me, the dial just looks ‘off’ with the dot indices. Bummer, because otherwise, a very fine piece.

  • WC

    This is a deeply disappointing watch for all the reasons the author outlines. I really hate to see Tudor headed in this direction. They need to update their aging models (heritage chronic) and create the next big thing. This either should have been a brand new chronograph line or a brand new GMT line.

  • SPITX206

    I look at this watch and wish for a reverse panda dial. Soon Tudor, please!

  • I like it. And would consider buying it on the bracelet. The Breitling movement bothers me. Probably because I bought a few Breitling chronographs in the 80’s and 90’s when their QC was exceptionally poor, and they broke all the time. But in this instance, it does appear that Rolex has done some interesting things with the movement.

  • benjameshodges

    This is how Tudor’s one and only R&D meeting went: “Our Black Bay is popular and so are chronographs, let’s smash both designs together. Movement, yeah let’s just grab one from someone else even though it’s too big for the case making the subdials tiny and spaced out. Dive bezel? Nah they don’t need ’em! Divers are more interested in measuring their miles per hour underwater. Let’s also put red lettering on there, cos I dunno watch nerds like ’em for some reason. Cool, now release it before Baselworld and say the movement is ours when it isn’t.”

  • Shinytoys

    I think the sharing of movements between companies will go a long way to keeping prices in check. I’m not sure how I feel about the Tudor Chrono, the look is still a little awkward for me. On the other hand, I sure would like to see what Breitling has in mind with the engine sharing agreement, I’d give that a hard look for sure…

  • Middle

    Why don’t you like this strap, while raving about the Oris strap? Looks to be the best part of this watch…?

  • Middle

    The bare stainless bezel is throwing me off, compared to previous BBs. May as well just buy a Speedmaster, with properly sized hands that don’t block the subdials.

  • Paul

    Big fat ‘meh.’ It looks like they had a bunch of bezels left over from unsold older Daytonas so they just slapped them on the Tudor.

  • Eugene Najera

    I like the look and would gladly wear one if Tudor needs some test field work done for a few years:-)

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Am all dive watched out.

  • Spangles

    I kinda like it?

    Maybe in person it will come together a bit more.

  • Beefalope

    I don’t like it. It’s not a bad watch; I just don’t see anything particularly interesting or appealing about the design. It’s kind of just … there.

  • Richard Baptist

    Take the money and get a Grand Seiko chronograph with power reserve, GMT, spring drive and those great obnoxious pushers. That is all.

    • IG

      Take the money and spend it on booze instead of wasting on a Seiko. That is all.

  • It should be noted that while Tudor will use a (their) silicon hairspring Bretiling will not.

    Subdials are too small.

  • Mischa

    Great review. It’s a nice watch, no doubt, Tudor quality, but… meh. The hour hand covering the sub-dials looks like a huge effectiveness vs. branding problem.

    I’m still waiting for a GMT Pelagos. Or even better, a GMT LHD Pelagos. One can always dream…

  • Marius

    Personally, I find this to be a great watch.

    Granted, aesthetically, this watch has an Omega Speedmaster-inspired dial, and a Rolex Daytona-esque bezel and pushers. Yet, overall, it looks decent, and most importantly, it’s a very versatile timepiece.

    Nevertheless, from a value perspective, this Tudor is a tremendous offering. $4,500 is a very acceptable price for a chronograph with a quality case & dial, and a modern and very capable movement. Some people complain that Tudor uses a Breitling movement. So what? The B01 is a very good caliber, and I know quite a few watchmakers who have told me that, in their opinion, the B01 is on par (if not slightly better) with the Rolex 4130. In any case, I’d much rather pay $4,500 for a B01-equipped watch than $6,000-$8,000 for a 7750-equipped Bremont or IWC.

    Furthermore, let’s look at the competition. Well, there really isn’t much because the only non-7750 chrono for under $6,000 is the Tag Heuer Carrera 01, and that watch uses a Seiko movement, and is much less versatile than the Tudor. Furthermore, let’s look at Omega. Well, $4,500 won’t get you much. Provided you can negociate a nice discount, this sum might get you an entry-level, three-hander Planet Ocean, Aqua Terra, etc, but certainly not a modern chronograph. In fact, during this year’s Baselworld, Omega presented the Railmaster — a three-hander with a rather decent fit & finish — and made a big deal about the fact that “ONLY” costs $5,000. Well, for slightly less, Tudor offers a modern chronograph. As far as I’m concerned, that’s not a bad deal at all.

    • A_watches

      Couldn’t agree more

    • Larry Holmack

      Totally agree.

      I really like the leather strap that comes with this one too. Has that distress look I really like. And usually, I am not a fan of black dials, but this watch looks really nice with the black dial. Seems like a very reasonably priced watch for what you are getting!

    • gw01

      You’ve hit the nail in the head.

    • Gokart Mozart

      What is the price of this like compared to the Breitling?

      Sorry neither this or the Breitling are my cup of tea.

      For this money i would get a Habring COS chrono. Much more my type of watch and unique and no one knows what it is. Perfect.

      For this price it may be 7750 based, but it is so different to a stock 7750 and I would get it as a hand wound watch.

      • Marius

        Well, a Breitling Navitimer (43 or 46 mm) costs around $8,800. Alternatively, a Breitling Transocean (43 mm) is slightly cheaper at around $8,500. So the Breitlings are considerably more expensive than the Tudor — although, as far as I know, the B01 used by Breitling has a higher level of movement decoration. The B01 used by Tudor seems to be devoided of any decorative technique.

        • Gokart Mozart

          $4k for extra machine finishing is a bit of a rip off. Granted the Breitling is more bigger and has a possibly more complicated case design, but to offset that Breitling is probably making a bit of a markup on the movements they sell to Tudor.

          The Tudor I have to admit does seem to be a bargain, but the Breitling must be overpriced by a lot.

    • TheChuphta

      Completely agree, but it’s a bit of bummer that not horrible design and not insane pricing equates to a decent offering these days.

  • otaking241

    I think there’s room for more than one retro chrono in the Tudor line. I wish they’d gone an extra step by giving this new hands and a display caseback in order to further distinguish it from the rest of the Blackbay lineup–other than those two things there’s really nothing about this that makes it a dive watch.

    Not sure about this “Calibre Manufacture” though…I feel like if this were Bremont people would be breaking out their pitchforks about now.

  • Jeffrey Chang

    Beautiful. And with all these negative comments I can’t wait to get one on the cheap.

    • A_watches

      Yes, I was just thinking that, no waiting list, just stroll in and negotiate an even better deal

  • A_watches

    Yes, I was just thinking that, no waiting list, just stroll in and negotiate an even better deal.

  • Chaz

    If ONLY…they put this movement into the Heritage “Home plate” as mentioned above. That watch is so beautiful but that CURSED movement just sucked B A LLS (I had one and ended up selling it because it was so lame)!!

    I’ll wait a little longer.

  • Dive watch aesthetics and construction with a tachometer bezel? No, Tudor. No.

    Silver subdials, non-snowflake handset in the next iteration please. This looks like a Beta version of something that could be so much better.

    • Ross Diljohn

      Couldn’t agree more.

  • Gokart Mozart

    Over the 50 or so comments so far I am suprised there is so little discussion and uproar about calling it a manufacture calibre.

    I am not a fan of Bremont but the double standards here in regards to this, because it is a “Rolex/Tudor” is disappointing.

    It is a very cheap trick, and worse than what Bremont did.

    Below is a copy and paste of the Tudor website and there is no reference to Breitling or it not being a Tudor calibre.In the UK it is £3,220 on the strap.

    “THE MANUFACTURE

    CHRONOGRAPH

    CALIBRE MT5813

    Boasting a 70-hour power reserve, a silicon balance spring and certification by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute, the Manufacture chronograph Calibre MT5813 that drives the Heritage Black Bay Chrono model is a high-performance movement. Crafted in the purest watchmaking tradition, it features a column wheel mechanism and vertical clutch. In keeping with the TUDOR philosophy of quality, it presents extraordinary robustness and reliability, guaranteed by an array of extreme tests applied to all TUDOR products.”

    • ??????

      Agreed. They play same game as Bremont(ETA) or TAG Heuer(Seiko). I am a bit shocked, actually, because I’ve always respected guys at Tudor for their rock solid products in honest package. Not mentioning Breitling is such a pity IMO

      • dookee

        Disagree. Bremont and TAG Heuer were shady about the origins, which were revealed against their will. In their press communications Tudor have been absolutely open and forward about this (as have Breitling), and have readily described the nature of the agreement.

        I don’t think that means they should have to put it on their website – it’s of negligible interest/relevance for the average Tudor customer (as opposed to the seasoned ABTW reader) and potentially a distraction. (You could also argue that it *is* a manufacture caliber – as compared to an off-the-shelf Valjoux, for instance – even if the manufacture is Breitling, not Tudor.)

        • David Bredan

          Hand on heart, I don’t think a lot others would have gotten the same pass for handling it this exact same way. What I mean is that I think how Tudor did it here is just fine – but then others shouldn’t be bashed with such hypocrisy when they do it too (generally speaking, of course, and not referring to your comments or to the Bremont or TAG thing in particular).
          I agree that the average consumer would just get confused and whether one Swiss manufacturer or the other Swiss manufacturer produces something shouldn’t be the most important piece of information plastered everywhere.
          Now, the origin of parts (when entire dials, handsets, cases and bracelets are “reportedly” sourced from Asia for $2-5k watches) is something that, I think, could be of much greater importance.

          • dookee

            Perhaps Tudor has got a pass that others wouldn’t, but that really reflects the distortion of the discussion now around movements. Fact is, this is a column wheel chrono with 70 hours power reserve and highly exclusive movement, upgraded from Breitling’s base version – and it’s for sale at about HALF the price of a Navitimer. That’s remarkable.

            It’s just a shame the frankenwatch design is such a fail.

          • Gokart Mozart

            I think there is just too much of this opaque and secrecy and not being open about their products in the Swiss Watch industry.

            I generally find most of what these watch companies tell me potentially is not strictly true, and this is also the case for the retailers AD or otherwise. It is an issue of trust, and to be honest many companies are not really 100% trust worthy because of the vagueness.

            If your are paying 2K, 5K or 50K on a watch that is just wrong.

            As an example that annoys me is the pictures on the websites and catalogues showing the hand bevelling, or the guilloche rose engine artisan, they give you the impression thatall the watches are made like this, when for most companies this is just not true. Obviously there are exceptions but you would think a £25,000 time only Patek or Vacheron to be made to the same standard and hand crafting as a £150,000 watch, but that is not the case in many watches.

            Is the issue of the origin of the case, bracelets if they are being made to the same quality and standard as the swiss made version that much of an issue IF it means cheaper watches? Important word here is IF.

            David what would you prefer. Two of the same simple 3 hand watches from a Swiss brand, but different levels of construction and the price is the same.

            One has a machine bevelled bridges and machine guilloche dial done in the Swiss factory. The other has hand bevelled bridges and a dial produced on an antique rose engine lathe in the far east by a far eastern skilled worker. Both are done to the level that would be expected by the brand for hand or machine finishing.

            Which one would you pick?

        • ??????

          I could call Tudor “open” only if they mentioned it somewhere in the website (forget on the case!). What they are doing now – is just pretending that the movement is 100% theirs. And I don’t think thet Tudor fans, which I can consider myself as well, aren’t interested in such details.

          • dookee

            I agree Tudor fans such as yourself are interested in such details, and Tudor is therefore communicating this openly. Here’s what it says in its press release:

            “Derived from the chronograph manufacture calibre Breitling 01, with
            a high-precision regulating organ developed by TUDOR and exclusive finishes, this movement is the result of a recent collaboration between
            the two brands, which now pool their expertise in the design and production of certain mechanical movements.”

            Bearing in mind this is Rolex, which until recently barely communicated with the press at all, this kind of declaration is pretty astonishing – and nothing like the kind of surreptitiousness TAG / Bremont displayed. Okay, it’s not on the website, but Tudor knows full well that those who are interested enough to find this relevant – like you – will find it out.

        • Gokart Mozart

          It is still misleading, if you don’t put it on the website, and give the impression that it has a Tudor movement when it does not.

          The average person who buys a Tudor will not in my opinion read all the press releases about the watch.

          More likely they will either see the watch somewhere advert or shop and then go look at the Tudor website, or they will google eg Chronographs from 3K to 5K and narrow down to the Tudor. A big reason for buying could be manufacture movement as it is such a buzz word in the industry.

          If they are so open about it why not put it on the website, and take off manufacture off the back. They are trying to cash in on the fact that they have one manufacture movement and this is another new one.

    • gw01

      Very thought provoking comment. Thanks for wording it, because yes, you’re right: it’s not a true manufacture!!! However, the thought of getting a movement normally found in a much more expensive Breitling chrono, and for under $5k is quite blinding.

      Parts of what add to man looking the other way are factor like what @dookee said, about Bremont and TAG’s origins being revealed against their will; and Tudor and Breitling being very much upfront about their collab… also in Bremont and TAG’s case, they grabbed a movement from pieces normally had for much less and multiplied by “x”, resulting in a conveniently higher MSRP. Perhaps Tudor seemingly offers a bargain, while other brands try to con the market with their higher priced out sourced movements… think IWC, Bremont and anybody selling caliber 39 re-cases that cost significantly more than an actual Eterna.

  • JimBob

    But… the hands.

  • I’m not a Tudor-phile, but I think that’s a mighty handsome watch.

  • Yan Fin

    First of all, exceptionally well written and intelligent review, thanks so much David. Even though the watch is not to everyone taste and quite eclectic design wise, I think it is of great importance. It shows another step of a great and exclusive brand to issue a watch with great exclusive movement , chronograph complication and very reasonable price.

  • Yanko

    Wonderful article. And a wonderful watch.

  • WMWM
    • denisd

      Hopefully it’s a prototype (well spotted).

  • egznyc

    Great, thoughtful review, David! I couldn’t help but draw comparisons of another sort as I read through and looked at the photos: this looks like a poor man’s version of an Omega Speedmaster, with a few interesting Tudor-esque touches. For one, the modern Speedmaster’s two-subdial layout is present, but of course the Tudor version only has one hand at the 3:00 subdial so it only times up to 45 minutes, rather than 12 hours. Even more shocking, the chrono seconds hand is lacking in lume, it appears – not even a smidgen on the tip, so not very good at timing an engine burn in a dark space ship. 😉 The date window also sticks out with its white background and square shape compared with circular markers elsewhere. Okay, at least it has some water resistance – but really, it lacks all the character of the Black Bay. And the Heritage Chrono has far more appeal from a design perspective. So to me, this is a miss.

  • Phil leavell

    Well written article David. Nice-looking watch . Looks like it belongs in the workaday world , unfortunately overpriced for that Target group. Yes they were honest and how the watch was put together. If a buying a manufacturer watch I could get a lot more for a lot less money out of Seiko or citizen and both would have a better fit and finish

  • Ross Diljohn

    I hate it…From hells heart I stab at thee, for hates sake I spit my last breath at thee…that sums up my feelings on this watch.

  • pina06355 .

    I think the leather strap is hideous and l know of no one in my office of watch lovers here at work that would be wearing it. The “Baytona” is definitely geared towards hipsters and not us office types other than what Tudors marketing dept. and Instagram want you to believe.
    Put the non riveted bracelet on the Baytona and then l will buy.
    At the end of the day it’s a beauty but strap choices and the riveted bracelet are for the netolgic hippies who are not really the ones who are going to buy it. Us office types are not buying it but could be without the drab of poor bracelet and strap options. Not everyone wears denim to work.

  • Mark1884

    First I must say that I like Tudor…… but this mishmash offering leaves me unsettled. Not really sure what look Tudor was shooting for with this. I hate the bezel and the snowflake looks awkward. The straps are bad, and please dump the rivet bracelet!! It looks cheap.
    Still a fan of Tudor, just not this one.

  • TrevorXM

    Another knock it out of the park for Tudor on the heels of the winning date and steel Black Bay three hander. The complete opposite of most chronographs which are packaging old, small movements in too-large cases and dials with the subdials crowding the centre, this one creates a nice bit of visual tension with wide set subdials. As Tudor and Breitling co-developed this calibre, it is rightfully called a “manufacture”. Price is very fair.

  • Jorge Robles

    This watch strictly speaking does not qualify as a divers watch regardless of the water resistance stated. Why? The bezel is fixed and inscribed with a tachymeter scale, has no luminiscent pip at 12 o’clock, and the large seconds hand is not luminiscent neither to indicate if the movement is still working under water. You can check these points and more under “ISO 6425”. The design has the “sense” to be clean but is not because as the reviewer said, it mixed square date indication with with round hour markers and this sets like a lack of real design thinking. Otherwise, this watch is very well executed in terms of fit and finish. But I would prefer to had it as a sports chrono line/model and not into the diver’s line as its name suggests.. Asides from that, for 4500.00 CHF is a a decent deal because the quality is there. Just that the design does not convince me at all. The only other chronographs that you can have cheaper than this are those ones equipped with the 7750 or the ETA 2894-2, and those are hardly manufacture movements unless they are used by a company member of the Swatch group. But even Omega, the best representative of the group, is barely using them now, unless you want the lesser/less expensive “Moonwatch” derivatives. And the new Omega Chrono calibers are way more sophisticated and robust than this Tudor/Breitling caliber, with tighter chrono performance than COSC, and the possibility of magnetic resistance higher that 15000 gauss due to the higher use of Si parts in the movement. In essence, I would not buy this watch for any diving at all, only maybe for daily use if at all. Wonder if an old style dial like the ones from the 70’s could be adapted to this movement, they would look better for my taste, just my opinion. At this moment I pass on this watch.

  • Nicolas Avellaneda Novella

    @egznyc:disqus Poor man’s version of an Omega Speedmaster? This thing is near to CHF 4.500!! You can get a Speedy Pro or an X-33 for less!!! I feel it more like Daytona, the tachy and the pushers are very similar.

    But you are right, it doesn’t look like a Black Bay. I love Tachymeter bezels but not in a watch called “Black Bay” I would like better a colorful ceramic regatta bezel, with the same look of the original.

  • Robert Polans

    Nice looking watch with the exception of the leather band. Band looks like it should be on a $10 watch at Walmart. Not real found of the white dots on the non quarter hoursr

  • Garrett Hu

    It’s surprising when Tudor calls the movement proprietary or in house people are okay with that but when Bremont does it all sorts of accusations of fraud gets blown out of proportions. If it’s not an in house movement, it can’t be called a manufacture movement. But I guess it’s Tudor and they are offering a tremendous value for a Chrono so most people are okay with that. What a double standard.

  • Waikato7

    I initially thought, “that just doesn’t work”. Then I saw it in the flesh and thought, “that works, surprisingly” Then I bought it. I love it. It’s brilliant.