How time flies, we are nearing the end of September, which means SIHH 2017 is just months away and the Richemont brands are beginning to tease their new offerings that they will show off next year. Taking the lead is one of Richemont’s premier brands, Vacheron Constantin. And one of the new watches that the 261-year-old brand will be presenting next year is the new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date watch.
The Patrimony collection represents models inspired by Vacheron Constantin’s past, specifically from the 1950s. And so it should be no surprise that pieces from the Patrimony collection are marked by their classic and timeless designs.
The new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date watch is no different. The case is a very classic-looking round one with very modest dimensions. It’s 42.5mm wide and is just 9.7mm thick. And it will be available in either 18K white gold or 18K 5N pink gold. Water resistance is rated at just 30 meters, which is pretty normal for dress watches.
The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date watch is the second model in the Patrimony range to feature the retrograde complication – the first is the Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date. The dial is silvered opaline, and the retrograde date display is visible across 9 to 3 o’clock.
Just above 6 o’clock is the moon phase display that is so accurate that it’s only off by a single day every 122 years. Interestingly, the moon disc is rendered using the same gold alloy as the case. So the 18K white gold model will have a white gold moon disc, while the 18K 5N pink gold model will have a matching pink gold disc. The hands, applied hour markers, and circular “pearl” minute track will also be rendered in the same gold alloy as the case, giving the entire dial a very harmonious and consistent look and feel.
Inside beats Vacheron Constantin’s in-house calibre 2460 R31L, which is visible through the sapphire case back. It features 275 components, 27 jewels, and is just 5.4mm thick. It beats at a very modern 28,800 vibrations per hour and provides 40 hours of power reserve. And since the watch has been certified by the Hallmark of Geneva, the movement is suitably well-finished, with chamfered bridges, polished jewel holes, and polished screw heads. Unfortunately, much of the movement is blocked by the large 22k gold rotor.
One benefit of this calibre 2460 R31L is that the date and moon phase displays can be adjusted using the crown, without the need of a stylus to push on correctors like some other retrograde watches.
Taken as a whole, the new Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date watch is a handsome and interesting addition to the Patrimony family. Personally, I’m more fond of this new watch than the older Patrimony Retrograde Day-Date, as the dial is cleaner and certainly more harmonious. The Retrograde Day-Date’s day display has a shortened “Thurs” that I find to be absolutely unforgivable. The Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date watch will make its debut at SIHH 2017 and is priced at $39,900. vacheron-constantin.com