Legibility & Wearibility
Despite a heavy feature set, the dial layout of the Vicenterra GMT-3 remains relatively straightforward and legible. There has clearly been a focus on making all indications as large as possible without making them goofy-looking: the main hands are large enough to ensure legibility and contrast well against the black dial (something the majority of black dial watches struggle to get right), the arch of the retrograde date is as large as it could possibly be, and the module’s inner workings on display is a nice touch that spices up the dial a bit more. Reading the date takes a bit of getting used to but unless your vision up close is really poor, you should be fine.
The GMT display is also nice and large and, like the date, its inner edge reaches the very center of the dial, balancing out the retrograde date across from it and maxing out usable space for this indication. It has a faceted and polished, blue PVD-coated and lume-tipped hand that in and of itself is a beautiful element on the dial. The day-night indicator at 12 o’clock is the only display that is less prominent than others, working as a means of filling that extra bit of space; thematically, the starry night goes well with the globe, too.
One of the coolest details is the engraving of the model name, serial number, and some stars next to the globe and under the GMT display. Until told about it, you probably wouldn’t even notice this detail – and I’ll say that it’s exactly stuff like this that more luxury watches should have and yet so many lack. It must have been a pain to get the positioning, size of the text and the actual laser engraving done right, but once it’s there, it really works well and adds a personal touch to the already truly unique design.
Last but not least – and this subtle detail is difficult to appreciate in all images but the one above – is the theater-like three-dimensional frame for the dial. Comprised of several complex pieces, these fillers help fit the round dial into the tonneau-shaped case and bezel, making for a truly elegant and subtle design solution. It helps add a lot of depth to the dial and makes the Vicenterra GMT-3 more fun to look at from steeper viewing angles as well.
The only aspect where some compromises were made with the Vicenterra GMT-3 is its large case: measuring 43.50mm wide and, more importantly, 53mm long, it is one hefty watch, further emphasized by its slick tonneau shape. This “Máté” variant in black titanium – named after a fellow Hungarian who has been helping Vincent for years now and also convinced him to do a black cased version of the GMT-3 – wears nice and light, but I think it would wear a bit too large on any wrist smaller than one medium/medium-large in diameter. There is a new version with a smaller case being released – but more about that below in the last paragraph of this review.
The strap and clasp worked well and I could get a fine and secure fit. Though, the two large push-pieces on the clasp, even if they never bothered me while wearing it, did look a bit out of place.
While the case’s black DLC treatment (a much preferable method when compared to PVD for its extended durability) has been polished, the case-back actually is satin finished. The two sapphire windows – one displaying the globe, and the other displaying part of the movement – are perfectly flush and cannot be felt when the watch is strapped to the wrist, making for a comfortable wearing experience.
Despite it being an objectively large (or rather: long) watch, I was thrilled to have been able to wear the Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté for a few weeks and grew to appreciate its finer details. The domed dial, the nicely done hands, the exposed retrograde mechanism, and of course, that blue globe all made it a joy to look at – and rendered so many other watches in its price range even more utterly boring.
Boring watches will forever exist, but I am so much more supportive of individual creative effort that by definition results in more interesting pieces. And this is exactly why I’m happy that Vicenterra is still around and doing well with its decidedly extremely limited production: because it shows there are at least a few dozen people out there every year who they can cater to – and that’s all it takes, really.
Price for the one of the 49 limited-edition pieces of the Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté is CHF 9,800. As I have noted above, there is a new version coming with a perfectly round case that measures 42.80mm wide (and hence will be under 50mm tall), making for a more restrained look and better fit for many. It will be priced at CHF 4,600 and, yes, it will still have the globe – but not the other extra indications. Stay tuned for a news article on that soon. vicenterra.ch
>Model: GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté
>Size: 43.50mm by 53mm, 13.65mm thick
>Would reviewer personally wear it: This one is large for my wrist, but the smaller version, yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Someone who likes more complex design and functionality, and hence, more unique products.
>Best characteristic of watch: Impressive modification of the 2892, works brilliantly. Balanced overall design.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Very long tonneau-shaped case limits range of prospective buyers; pricy. The round version should resolve both issues.