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Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Legibility & Wearibility

Despite a heavy feature set, the dial layout of the Vicenterra GMT-3 remains relatively straightforward and legible. There has clearly been a focus on making all indications as large as possible without making them goofy-looking: the main hands are large enough to ensure legibility and contrast well against the black dial (something the majority of black dial watches struggle to get right), the arch of the retrograde date is as large as it could possibly be, and the module’s inner workings on display is a nice touch that spices up the dial a bit more. Reading the date takes a bit of getting used to but unless your vision up close is really poor, you should be fine.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The GMT display is also nice and large and, like the date, its inner edge reaches the very center of the dial, balancing out the retrograde date across from it and maxing out usable space for this indication. It has a faceted and polished, blue PVD-coated and lume-tipped hand that in and of itself is a beautiful element on the dial. The day-night indicator at 12 o’clock is the only display that is less prominent than others, working as a means of filling that extra bit of space; thematically, the starry night goes well with the globe, too.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

One of the coolest details is the engraving of the model name, serial number, and some stars next to the globe and under the GMT display. Until told about it, you probably wouldn’t even notice this detail – and I’ll say that it’s exactly stuff like this that more luxury watches should have and yet so many lack. It must have been a pain to get the positioning, size of the text and the actual laser engraving done right, but once it’s there, it really works well and adds a personal touch to the already truly unique design.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Last but not least – and this subtle detail is difficult to appreciate in all images but the one above – is the theater-like three-dimensional frame for the dial. Comprised of several complex pieces, these fillers help fit the round dial into the tonneau-shaped case and bezel, making for a truly elegant and subtle design solution. It helps add a lot of depth to the dial and makes the Vicenterra GMT-3 more fun to look at from steeper viewing angles as well.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

The only aspect where some compromises were made with the Vicenterra GMT-3 is its large case: measuring 43.50mm wide and, more importantly, 53mm long, it is one hefty watch, further emphasized by its slick tonneau shape. This “Máté” variant in black titanium – named after a fellow Hungarian who has been helping Vincent for years now and also convinced him to do a black cased version of the GMT-3 – wears nice and light, but I think it would wear a bit too large on any wrist smaller than one medium/medium-large in diameter. There is a new version with a smaller case being released – but more about that below in the last paragraph of this review.

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The strap and clasp worked well and I could get a fine and secure fit. Though, the two large push-pieces on the clasp, even if they never bothered me while wearing it, did look a bit out of place.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

While the case’s black DLC treatment (a much preferable method when compared to PVD for its extended durability) has been polished, the case-back actually is satin finished. The two sapphire windows – one displaying the globe, and the other displaying part of the movement – are perfectly flush and cannot be felt when the watch is strapped to the wrist, making for a comfortable wearing experience.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Summary

Despite it being an objectively large (or rather: long) watch, I was thrilled to have been able to wear the Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté for a few weeks and grew to appreciate its finer details. The domed dial, the nicely done hands, the exposed retrograde mechanism, and of course, that blue globe all made it a joy to look at – and rendered so many other watches in its price range even more utterly boring.

Boring watches will forever exist, but I am so much more supportive of individual creative effort that by definition results in more interesting pieces. And this is exactly why I’m happy that Vicenterra is still around and doing well with its decidedly extremely limited production:  because it shows there are at least a few dozen people out there every year who they can cater to – and that’s all it takes, really.

Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté Watch Review Wrist Time Reviews

Price for the one of the 49 limited-edition pieces of the Vicenterra GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté is CHF 9,800. As I have noted above, there is a new version coming with a perfectly round case that measures 42.80mm wide (and hence will be under 50mm tall), making for a more restrained look and better fit for many. It will be priced at CHF 4,600 and, yes, it will still have the globe – but not the other extra indications. Stay tuned for a news article on that soon. vicenterra.ch

Necessary Data
>Brand: Vicenterra
>Model: GMT-3 Tome 5 Titanium Black Máté
>Price: CHF9,800
>Size: 43.50mm by 53mm, 13.65mm thick
>Would reviewer personally wear it: This one is large for my wrist, but the smaller version, yes.
>Friend we’d recommend it to first: Someone who likes more complex design and functionality, and hence, more unique products.
>Best characteristic of watch: Impressive modification of the 2892, works brilliantly. Balanced overall design.
>Worst characteristic of watch: Very long tonneau-shaped case limits range of prospective buyers; pricy. The round version should resolve both issues.

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Comments

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  • Word Merchant

    I rather like this watch but was completely put off by the utter rubbish on the website:

    VICENTERRA is about a human adventure, the adventure of Vincent Plomb, a man made for challenges and entrepreneurship. It is also a trip in which the steps are as important as the goal, and a journey which essence is the human relationships. But most importantly VICENTERRA is a tribute to the history of humankind that can be summarized with verbs such as to dare, to excel, to discover, to achieve and to transmit.

    Nonsense!

    • David Bredan

      Agreed, that is the typical marketing [insert brand name here] lingo. I feel safe in saying though that marketing is not one bit what sells this watch, which is actually part of its charm (but this is not to say it couldn’t/shouldn’t be improved).

      • IG

        “bullshit” can be inserted there?

        • David Bredan

          Having worked/talked with and known a lot of really small independent brands I’ll say that this is a common issue: more often than not there just is not enough manpower/time/resources dedicated to getting the message right. More importantly that is especially true for small brands that are unusually product focused. I’m pretty sure this brand’s founder couldn’t tell you one word from that marketing gibberish that was written who knows how long ago – but I know he could talk hours about the product itself.
          This is not at all to say that the quote above is not BS because in truth it really sounds like typical marketing nonsense – but, as Rob D pointed out above, at least it’s not the misleading kind. To me, for better or worse, it just shows the focus is on the product, not the message.

    • Rob D

      To be fair, it’s not really that much worse than brands which have no actual links to historic names and companies trading on that history in just as much of a nonesensical way, at least he’s not claiming to be somebody he’s not.

    • BILL

      Transmit our ice legacy! ‘Member that?

  • Such a cool watch and at a very reasonable price for what you get. Looking forward to seeing a review of the simpler (and even more affordable) round reference. Thanks for the review David.

    • David Bredan

      Thanks Mark, I’m too looking forward to it – at that price and size it’s quite tempting, even.

  • Rob D

    Really like this, the attention to detail and how much everything has been though out is fantastic, I was expecting the price to be considerably more than this. Seems like he’s gone very much for ‘practical novelty’ rather than just novelty for the sake of it.

  • IG

    Interesting design with that globe casually put into the corner. Too bad it’s automatic.

    • David Bredan

      Just curious, how would it being hand-wound only make it better? I’m curious because I’m also all for hand-wound in some cases but here most of the complications are on the dial side so it’s not like anything is covered (and if it is, it is by the dial, not the automatic winding) and the case isn’t terribly thick either.

      • IG

        It’s not just about the rotor covering the movement, I just reject the concept of self-winding. I am a purist.

  • ??????

    One of the most impressive watches below 10k IMO. The dial looks unique and pretty complex while remaining just a watch dial, not complex for a sake of complexity. Combined with real-model Earth and titanium case – we have a winner here, even considering it’s based on 2892. Hublot would have charged triple for a similar watch (and ETA based as well).

  • Mark Flanagan

    Don’t forget the infinitely cheaper ($250 USD) Casio Edifice EQB-600 with its spinning 3D day/night hemisphere globe.

    • IG

      Don’t forget that’s a quartz turd, so it’s not cheap enough.

  • BrJean

    Never heard of this brand before but I’m very surprised by the price-quality ratio of this watch.

  • SuperStrapper

    The watch is interesting, and not horribly priced considering the details. I’m finding it hard to get past the ‘first glanced’ impression that looks like something much more affordable? I won’t say cheap because it doesn’t look cheap, but there is just something about that retrograde date display, likely the window to the movement, that is detracting from the rest of the watch.

  • BNABOD

    on some of the pics the watch looks to have an average finish but on some it looks stellar. so it probably is a beast to photograph but if you can tenderize an elephant one should also be able to take pics of the beast. rather impressive outcome for a one man show and a price that is very competitive based on what you are getting. definitely something to see in the flesh if ever possible.

    • David Bredan

      It was quite challenging to photograph this one as a lot of the seemingly similar surfaces were in fact slightly different in tone/reflectivity leaving no one reference point to the eye. As a rule of thumb if something is just average chances are it will never look stellar on any shot so yes, quality is more than decent – I just found it unusually difficult to capture it consistently.

  • IanE

    Cool, but a bit too much of everything for me. Looking forward to the small(-ish) round one though!

  • Thanks for this review David. Never knew the brand existed until now. VERY interesting watch.

    • David Bredan

      My pleasure! I hope to find the time to go hands-on with the round alternative and give you guys a better look at that as well. If you have a larger wrist and like the extra complications then likely this is going to be the right one for you – note that there are multiple versions of this GMT-3 model though I honestly have no idea which ones are in production.

    • David Bredan

      They have been around for some years but until they reached out I didn’t know about them either – not something you see every day (the deleted comment below was mine, just screwed up).

  • Shinytoys

    I love the complications, and the presentation has a solid, quality look. I’d give it serious consideration as a future purchase…

    • David Bredan

      @shinyshinytoys:disqus My pleasure! I hope to find the time to go hands-on with the round alternative and give you guys a better look at that as well. If you have a larger wrist and like the extra complications then likely this is going to be the right one for you – note that there are multiple versions of this GMT-3 model though I honestly have no idea which ones are in production.

      • Shinytoys

        keep us posted on the company’s progress and future offerings, and again, nice job David. Cheers!

  • Shawn Lavigne

    nice watch. would love to see this one in the flesh. quite an achievement to do this with the venerable 2892.

  • Paul

    That is a seriously cool watch. Love the execution of the complications, and I really love the 3D globe. This is what a small, independent watch company should be working on… pieces that don’t exist anywhere else. Definitely a conversation piece for sure. I’m interested to see the new one as well.

  • Ron-W

    I love it !! GMT and a globe, sure its only 9600 CHF ?? What a watch.

  • spiceballs

    Nice job Vincent, and David.

    • David Bredan

      Thank you, appreciate it! (taking credit just for my part, obviously)

  • While quite a bit larger than I would wear, it’s one of the most interesting watches to grace these pages lately. Fantastic detail and originality, rarely seen together today especially at this price point. Cool stuff!

  • Ulysses31

    Classy-looking and with interesting complications that don’t distort the form or add too much bulk.

  • CalmTiger

    WHAT??? aprox 9700$???? what a deal, i read the whole review thinking think was a 40k$ watch. Absolutely class

  • Ranchracer

    I haven’t liked a watch this much in a long time. The price is more than I normally spend on a timepiece, but in this case I may be making an exception. A truly exquisite piece.