When a brand’s debut watch has many iterations, I suppose the temptation to further iterate is reduced, and the urge to build something new grows. That seems to be the case with Möels. The British brand founded by designer Betina Menescal launched in 2019 and, ahead of this most recent release, dropped a killer mid-century Modern watch, the Möels 528. That watch dug deep into a retro vibe, but the brand’s newest offering is decidedly more modern. The Möels 369 catches the integrated bracelet trend while maintaining some of the signatures of the 528, and just like its predecessor, was released in a slew of dial variants.

The Möels 369 has an entirely different look and presence than the 528. Instead of a sleek rectangular case, the 369 features a hybridized tonneau-cushion design with an integrated bracelet. The case is 39mm wide and measures 12.25mm thick. That’s somewhat stout for 39mm, but certainly not unmanageable. The stubby onion crown screws down and helps achieve an impressive 200m of water resistance, while the domed sapphire crystal maintains the convex curve of the cushion-shaped bezel, which has a polished edge. I’m not sure I expected 200m of water resistance on a watch like this, and I won’t complain about the added peace of mind, but as I mentioned in a previous review, if reducing it to 100m might have taken off some heft, that would be my preference. Slim polished bevels also trace the top and bottom edges of the tonneau midcase, curving down at the end of the case’s 46.5mm lug-to-lug.

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While it may have excellent dimensions on paper, you feel every bit of those measurements on the wrist. The wide bezel and added width from the midcase gives it a much more prominent appearance and presence than other 39mm watches. That said, I never found it to feel overwhelming on my 7-inch wrist; on the contrary, there seemed to be an intentionality to the heft of the watch. Unlike some designs that are bulky for lack of refinement, this seems to serve as a counterpoint to the 528, and have a case that insists upon being noticed and enjoyed. And I found myself doing both.

The bracelet remains chunky, not offering any tapered thickness from the case, but slimming in width toward the folding clasp which has a built-in micro-adjustment mechanism. The bracelet itself is properly integrated into the case — the only way to remove it is with a screwdriver, though the brand does ship each 369 with a 20mm adapter that attaches and allows pairing with your own straps. While a set came with the watches, I found removing the two-ended screw on the lugs a chore that required two screws and dexterity and finely applied force that I don’t appear to have. I have used similar adapters on other integrated bracelet watches; it’s nice to have the flexibility, but it can look a little awkward (like the Tudor P01), and I usually end up keeping the watch on the bracelet. The overall design is decidedly modern, almost futuristic, creating further separation from the strap-only 528. However, it should be noted that due to the thicker build of the watch and the bracelet, as well as minimal articulation, the fitment might not be perfect for everyone.

The Möels 369 is offered in a dizzying array of colors, nine in total. Four of the dials are lumed, while 5 are unlumed. Except for the black Darkstar, every dial features a brushed surface, most of them with a bold color. The two seen here, Terra Brass and Emerald Forest, show off the brushing superbly. There are also red, purple, blue, silver, and a few other dials. As mentioned, Möels took the same approach here as it did with the 528: there are lots of colors to offer something for everyone.

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The dials all maintain the segmented dial that defined the 528, with thin lines splitting the dial into hour sections. The skeletonized hands are also similar, though have been tweaked to make sure their proportions suit the 369 dials. A railway style minute track surrounds the dial, with applied markers arcing between the hours. Between the markers, you’ll find numbering in 5-minute intervals. One of my favorite touches is the vertical “Möels” branding at 6 — and the lack of any other dial text. It keeps things clean and avoids clutter. On the unlumed models, the hands and markers all get a high-polish, but on the lumen dials, they’re all lumed. Specifically, the markers are solid Lume, what the brand calls LumeBlocks, while the hands have matching Super-LumiNova applied. Practically speaking, this means that the markers are significantly brighter and more uniform than the hands, though both shine adequately.

From a production standpoint, the large number of dial options appears to mean lower numbers for each dial, meaning the hot ones sell out faster than. Most small brands are hitting their minimum order quantities across variants, instead of with each variant. With MOQs typically around 300-500, that means a brand has to decide how to allot the total between the different variants: in this case, I’m not sure if Möels opted to go for an even split, or tried to anticipate which colors would do best and order more of those. I’ve seen both done, and I don’t think there’s necessarily a winning formula.

Beneath a caseback that looks creates a sense of mystery, the Möels 369 is the Swiss automatic Sellita SW200-1 in its no-date execution. That means a minimum power reserve of 38 hours (the quoted average is 41 hours) at 28,800 vph. Möels reports an accuracy of -/+ 12 seconds per day, suggesting the base execution of the SW200-1. That was no bother for me, as the caliber has more than proven its mettle through its use in hundreds if not thousands of different watches.

It’s exciting to see a brand launch a sophomore model that is so divergent from its debut, especially when it manages to create a throughline. That’s what I think Möels has accomplished here. The Möels 369 captures a still active trend with its integrated bracelet design, but introduces a new dial that is elegant, modern, and balanced. The stoutness of the case may ward some off, but those who decide to grab a 369 are sure to be happy with it. The Möels 369 is priced at £1,150 GBP for all models, lume and unlumed. For more information, please visit the Möels website.


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