March 31, 2023
With Watches and Wonders 2023 currently in full swing, it should be no surprise that our March roundup is chock full of articles regarding exciting new releases. Let’s get into it!
1. Parmigiani Fleurier Unveils The Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante Watch
At last year’s Watches and Wonders, Parmigiani Fleurier stole the show with the GMT Rattrapante, as well as the Tonda PF Skeleton — two pieces that impressed both enthusiasts and industry vets while also helping to solidify the brand’s new direction. The GMT Rattrapante turned out to be a runaway favorite, and arguably the brand’s new flagship timepiece thanks to its vibrant blue dial and a novel take on one of the most popular complications in the biz. The Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante features a pair of hour hands that can be set independently, but can also be stacked on top of each other with a push of a button whenever a secondary time zone display isn’t needed. Now, just one year after the debut of the GMT model, Parmigiani Fleurier is taking this same core concept and applying it to a completely different function — the chronograph! Our Ripley Sellers breaks down how the new PF Tonda Rattrapante Minute works and why it is such an interesting release.
2. Hands-On: Tudor Black Bay 54 Dive Watch
When I first heard that Tudor had released what seemed to be a slightly smaller version of the Black Bay 58, I thought it was a bit redundant. I mean, it already has a popular, almost universally well-respected undersized diver that is suitable for both men and women in the Black Bay 58, right? Then I got the Black Bay 54 on my wrist, and my opinion changed entirely. The Black Bay 54 is absolutely excellent, thanks to a svelte thickness of just 11.2 mm (including the domed sapphire), which allows the piece to sit flatly on the wrist and appear larger than its diameter suggests. The T-fit clasp on both the bracelet and rubber strap is another welcome touch. Moreover, it’s rare to find a diver at this size with 200 meters of water resistance. This is no skin diver; the BB54 is the real deal.
3. Hands-On Debut: Girard-Perregaux Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition
For the last year or so, Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato has been experiencing somewhat of a renaissance. While there are plenty of sports watches with integrated bracelets available in the watch market, few can claim a true lineage to the 1970s. Introduced before both the IWC Ingenieur and Patek Philippe Nautilus, the Laureato was conceived in 1975 by Milan-based architect Adolfo Natalini. The current offerings in the Laureato collection offer an excellent price-to-value ratio, as well as a bevy of intriguing different configurations. Perhaps none are more interesting than GP’s latest release: the Laureato Green Ceramic Aston Martin Edition. A compelling fusion of the Laureato’s distinctive styling with British sporting automaker Aston Martin’s particularly deep shade of British racing green, this version is as novel as it is handsome. In this piece, Ed Rhee goes in-depth with it, explaining its context and why it’s so great.
4. Rolex Releases New Oyster Perpetual Watches With “Celebration” Dials
Over the past few years, the perception of Rolex’s Oyster Perpetual collection has changed. While it used to be the brand’s entry-level watch, it has turned into more of a “hype watch” of late, with demand for most colorways far outweighing the supply available through authorized retailers. Like the candy pink, green, yellow, and coral variants, the new “celebration dial” OP’s are no doubt going to be difficult to obtain at retail, and will likely command outrageous premiums on the secondary market, particularly at first. Available in 31, 36, and 41 mm, this watch is also noteworthy in that it is a loud and colorful release from what is widely regarded as one of the watch world’s most conservative brands.
5. Hands-On-Debut: IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 Watches Inspired By Gerald Genta Classic
For what seems like years, watch enthusiasts (including myself) have been hoping that IWC would re-introduce the Genta-designed Ingenieur into their catalog. After five years of research and development, the IWC Ingenieur 40 is here! In this article, Ariel Adams goes hands-on with the most talked about IWC from this year’s Watches and Wonders show, explaining its historical context as well as giving his candid opinion about all aspects of the watch.
6. The Rolex Day-Date Emoji — A Case Of Heart Or SMH?
While there were plenty of new releases this month, none of them garnered the attention of the new Rolex Date-Date “Emoji.” Every year, we have come to expect new releases from Rolex to feature very incremental changes and upgrades to its core pieces. This year, the crown surprised us with a release with several vibrant colorways and concepts — most notably with the release of this watch and the Oyster Perpetual “Celebration Dial.” Many of us in the watch community were shocked when we first saw this release. After all, it is a Day-Date that features neither the day nor the date, replacing each with positive words and emojis. I go back and forth on this one. On the one hand, it’s cool that Rolex is pushing the boundaries of what we have come to expect from it. On the other hand, this is a very strange-looking watch that doesn’t make a whole lot of sense. Or is that the whole point? This article considers different sides of that argument from a light-hearted perspective.
Source: Fratello Watches
7. Introducing Five New TAG Heuer Carrera Chronographs for 2023
To the delight of many Heuer purists, TAG Heuer‘s 2023 Novelties feature various interesting new additions to the iconic Carrera collection, including a 39 mm version of the Carrera Chronograph that will no doubt appeal to vintage chronograph enthusiasts. On The Dash, a blog that focuses on vintage Heuer timepieces, breaks down the details of all five new releases.
Source: On The Dash
8. Rolex Accelerates Swiss Production Boost to Meet Rising Demand
While some have argued that Rolex has been intentionally curbing supply in an effort to increase demand, it appears that the brand is taking steps to boost its production in order to satisfy more of the demand. The “Crown, “AKA the undisputed king of the watch biz, is opening three new production facilities in western Switzerland. Rolex will break ground on the facilities later this year, with production to begin as early as 2025. It will be interesting to see how this impacts availability going forward. One can hope that some of the brand’s more sought-after pieces will be more readily available at retailers.
9. It’s The Beginning Of The End For Logan Roy — Brian Cox On His Final Journey & The Watches He Wore
As of this week, HBO’s Succession is back for its final season. This article features a candid interview with Brian Cox, the actor who plays the show’s chief antagonist, Logan Roy, while also exploring the different watches he wore throughout the show.
10. Resource: Watches and Wonders 2023 Novelties
With a dizzying number of watch release announcements coming in from Switzerland, it can be hard to keep track of all the newness. This page will keep you up to date on all of the novelties from Watches and Wonders 2023.
Source: Watches and Wonders