September 19, 2019
by Rob Nudds
If you’re a seasoned watch lover, you’ll know the process I’m about to describe: You wake up in the morning thinking about watches; you log on to your favorite watch blog in the hope you’ll find something new and exciting, something that ticks all the boxes, something that goes above and beyond the norm and seems, somehow, to tap into your innermost thoughts and desires. And then you see it! You hold your breath as you scroll down the page towards the price… Will this be the moment the watch you can afford is also the watch you actually want? This, dear readers, is how I felt about not just the Bravur Geography GMT Limited Edition watch, but also the entire Bravur range. And whether the end result is to your tastes or not, it is pleasing to see a well-made, individual design for not so much money at all.
A Swedish brand with an emphasis on design, Bravur does not skimp on the material or mechanical credentials, either. Powered by a rhodium-plated Sellita 3301-1 with a decorated rotor (which is visible through the sapphire crystal display back), and encased in 39mm of Sandvik Sanmac Swedish stainless steel, which has been plated with both gold PVD and titanium to create a nuanced and durable skin, the Bravur Geography GMT watch is a well-arrayed gent. It joins two more Geography GMT models in the range (one white, one blue), both with uncoated stainless steel cases (and $200 cheaper as a result). Although it is the newest piece in an established range, its golden exterior places it right at the top of the luxury tree.
The gold-colored case, water-resistant to 50 meters, is brought to life by the forest green dial, itself enlivened by a sun-ray finish, a curved surface, and multiple levels. It is this kind of attention to all three dimensions of product design that really makes a difference to a watch community tired of occassionally lazy releases.
The silver applied hour indices increase the versatility of this piece, though may rankle with the anti-bi-color brigade (not an official club, but would probably have a sharp uniform if it were). The GMT function is a stout, golden hand, that utilizes the recessed center dial to indicate the hour. Normally such a short hand might seem out of place, but the way it has been cleverly hemmed in by the recess makes it an exception to the rule. A date window at 6 o’clock provides the extra information one would expect from a GMT and blends in sufficiently, thanks to a white print on a black field.
Every one of these watches is hand-built and tested in Sweden, with the watchmaker’s signature and date of assembly engraved inside the caseback. The watches are available from today (September 9th) and have a two-week delivery time. Considering the accessible price of $1,850, the run size of just 25 pieces seems incredibly small, and I anticipate these will not be around for long. Learn more at at bravur.com.