At Baselworld 2019, Carl F. Bucherer has come out swinging with what I would consider some of the brand’s most attractive releases to date. Originally unveiled to a handful of people in New York last October, the Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral Limited Edition finally gets its debut to the larger community. With nods aplenty to the brand’s heritage, this is, in my opinion, one of the most beautiful modern dress watches I’ve seen in the last ten years.
Brand: Carl F. Bucherer
Model: Heritage Tourbillon Double Peripheral Limited Edition (ref. 00.10802.03.13.01)
Dimensions: 42.5mm x 11.9mm
Water Resistance: 30m
Case Material: 18-Karat Rose Gold
Movement: Automatic CFB T3000 Manufacturer Chronometer
Power Reserve: 65 Hours
Strap/Bracelet: Brown Alligator Leather Strap
Price & Availability: Limited to 88 pieces. Pricing unspecified (will publish when we receive them)
As an overall aesthetic, this watch just works. It is a particularly strong performer in the dress watch category. The rose gold case features a polished bezel, which contrasts well with brushed top surface of the lugs. Pairing this contrast with the domed sapphire, results in a coherent “homage” to times of yore. The milled ring and applied rose gold hour indices supposedly give a nod to the baroque era of Lucerne, Switzerland, and are influenced by various dress watches from the ’60s. Personally, when paired with the sunburst dial plate, I find the milled ring perfectly balances out the dial with some added aesthetic interest.
Flipping the watch over, you’ll find an 18-Karat white gold bridge plate featuring a unique hand-engraved motif of Lucerne’s skyline. A neat touch across the 88 models is each one features a swan engraved in a different location – referencing Lucern’s Schwanenplatz, where Carl F. Bucherer opened up shop in the late 1800s. This bridge plate is a labor of love, as each takes a craftsman more than two weeks to produce.
However, the real draw here is the COSC certified CFB T3000 movement. The Tourbillon, which seems as if it is floating at 12 o’ clocks far enough away from the edge of the case so that this very cool rotor peripheral rotor weight is able to whizz straight over its head while winding the watch. Additionally, this style of rotor is necessary to afford enough internal space for the beautiful scene to be engraved in full.
Overall, to say I’m impressed with the Heritage Tourbillon Double Periphery is an understatement. While I’m sure many will have some qualms with the size for a dress watch, I don’t. When paired with the Tourbillon, and surprisingly thin profile considering it’s inclusion, I don’t believe this will wear too big for formal occasions. Simply put, this is a solid modern dress watch offering from a brand looking to make some noise on the international scene. Read more at carl-F-Bucherer.com