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Chaumet Dandy Watches

Chaumet Dandy Watches Watch Releases

Interesting, although mostly known in the high-end jeweler world, and not widely known in watch circles, LVMH-owned Chaumet has released three new models in its men’s Dandy line – in rose gold with a cream or black dial and stainless steel with a blue dial. Featuring Swiss mechanical movements with sleek and refined looks apparently inspired by 1920s Parisian elegance, the collection adds some new dressier elements like a thin rose gold case and some unique “powdery” satin dial textures to its design. When it comes to watches, Chaumet is mostly recognized for its ladies’ collections, so it’s nice to see some expansion to its only men’s line, the Chaumet Dandy, but some sticker shock may be unavoidable.

Chaumet Dandy Watches Watch Releases

Chaumet Dandy watches are recognizable by their dial patterns and unique case shape. It’s technically a cushion, but the corners give it an almost squared look to me. Chaumet explains this as influenced by the “Regent” – a notorious diamond chosen by Napolean Bonaparte. For these Dandy watches, Chaumet brings two polished rose gold cases with brushed edges and a polished stainless steel model. Ironically enough, Chaumet has positioned these new Dandy models as “Large Model Watches,” even though they only measure in at 38mm wide by 8.55mm thick, putting these watches in a dressier category despite the articulating lugs and adding a little sporty touch. Each case features a cool blue sapphire-accented crown (they remind me very much of Cartier’s cabochons), a domed sapphire crystal, and a water resistance rating of 30m.

Chaumet Dandy Watches Watch Releases

The dials are arguably the draw here, my favorite being the cream-colored model. I’m going to split these up in overall aesthetics because I want to discuss the blue model on its own. The rose gold cases and the dials associated with them, are hands down dressier models. The powdery texture of the cream dial is attractive, and fits the watch well, while the satin finish of the black dial is classic and easy to match with anything. Both of these models will come on an alligator leather strap and feature a seconds sub-dial at the 6 o’clock position that blends nicely with the “tone-on-tone bayadère” striping on the left side of the dial. On paper, I would have assumed these would be racing influenced, but they are classy dress watches and I like the premise.

Chaumet Dandy Watches Watch Releases

That is except for the blue dial model. This model adds some Arabic numerals to the seconds subdial and moves it to the 9 o’clock position, which I feel is an awkward place for it in the striping pattern. The inclusion of a slew of colorful NATO and leather straps makes me believe this is really aiming to feel sporty in nature, and I’m just having a hard time seeing it. The sunburst blue pattern is attractive, and the alternating matte striping looks cool against it, but with the thin baton handset, the thinness of the watch itself, and overall minimal design, I can’t help but feel this watch gets a little lost trying to find where it belongs.

Chaumet Dandy Watches Watch Releases

Inside the Chaumet Dandy beats a [REDACTED]. Jokingly “redacted,” of course, but neither the website, nor the brand’s own marketing, nor their reps are able to disclose what movements are actually inside the Dandy. Many targeted Google searches revealed that at some point they were unspecified ETA/Peseux three-hander variations – whether that’s still the case (it likely is), makes it a guessing game, or worse, an assumption. At least some of the Chaumet Dandy watches have exhibition casebacks (though no official images to be found). I would at least hope the movements are pristinely decorated since these watches are well into the 4- and 5-figure club.

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At least, we know that the rose gold models with small seconds at 6 o’clock have a Swiss hand-wound movement operating at 3Hz with 17 jewels and a power reserve of 42 hours. This model has a solid, engraved caseback. The steel model has sub-seconds at 9 o’clock and an exhibition caseback with a Swiss automatic movement beating at 4Hz with a generous 50-hour power reserve, containing 27 jewels. Maybe a little crowd-sourcing from the audience can help.

Chaumet Dandy Watches Watch Releases

Overall these watches are charming and attractive, if not a bit… superfluous. I get the vibe that Chaumet spends their attention on high jewelry, and the men’s watch line is tacked on at the end because anyone spending time in a Chaumet boutique isn’t there for the watches. That being said, I don’t know that I would call these “fashion watches” either, in the sense that enthusiasts tend to use the term, as a bit of research shows these are superbly finished – as they should be coming from a jewelry company where a simple platinum ring requires the shopper to fill out a quote request form.

Chaumet Dandy Watches Watch Releases

Additionally, it seems that Chaumet has included some pretty cool complications under the “Dandy Arty” designation in the past, including a metronome, centered bridges, and sapphire dial work. However, a scroll through the current collection shows fewer ambitious designs. For followers of the brand already, I suppose these are a simple cherry on top of a long marriage of fandom. For serious watch collectors and enthusiasts, information on the movement is severely lacking, and the Chaumet Dandy watches are in a very competitive price range. Price for both the cream (reference W11888-16C) and black (W11888-16N) dial Chaumet Dandy in rose gold is 14,100 GBP (currently $18,300-ish in USD) and price for the steel model (W11288-15B) is 4,600 GBP (roughly $6,000). Learn more at chaumet.com

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Comments

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  • I agree – the blue dial watches have a layout (running seconds at 9) that really doesn’t work as well as the other with the seconds at 6. Much as I like articulated lugs (I have designed watches with them after all), I don’t think they fit the overall design here nor do they seem appropriate for the rest of the dressy case design. And yes the prices are not a good value in the watch world – maybe jewelry buyers won’t know or care. These are nice looking watches for the most part but a bit small for me with too high of prices.

  • SuperStrapper

    Well, with those specs it wont be low hanging fruit like a 7001, so I’ll also be interested in an update when the movement is known.
    That said, that watches dont interest me so much. With the dramatic serif based logo and the stylized numerals, with all the tone-on-tone textures they look like Eames-era cigarette ads from a general interest magazine for the wealthy. They certainly aren’t unattractive, but even in gold they look to be priced astronomically.

  • Boy-O-Boy, those watches sure are dandy!

  • Playboy Johnny – Team Mariu$

    https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/2a30274b0955551e54eac2f7c05b3147a3beb4d29ae53b30cf2e786eaa266331.png
    No thanks, I like this more. It does not have a mystery movement and costs less.

  • Spangles

    The rose gold versions are nice.

  • Dimman

    9h sub seconds with 50h PR, 4Hz, 27 jewels, automatic sounds like a modified Valjoux or Sellita that’s been de-Chronographed. 6h, 17 jewels, 3Hz manual sounds like the article-mentioned Peseux/ETA 7001.

    La-Joux Perret has history with modifying both those base calibers, doing something similar for Bremont’s Wright Flyer “in-house” movement. Although in that case it was 25 jewels. But it depends on what LJP has access to modify. If they used a 27 jewels SW510 as their base instead of 25 jewel SW500 or VJ7750 that could account for the jewel difference.

  • Gokart Mozart

    I really like the case shape, although not so keen on the lugs but I think overall it works. I also like the grenade style finish on the cream dial but not the tyre tracks or the full width applied index.

    It would be interesting to see what VC would do with this case (and dial finish).

  • Adam Fenyves

    I’m not commenting on the watches too much, but their website is like it was last redesigned in 2001. I don’t know how any brand calling themselves “luxury” can afford this. I have had poor online experience with Omega and Zenith so far, but this is definitely the worst of ’em all.

  • Marceau Ratard

    $18K for a 38mm 3-hander. That is Calatrava/Patrimony territory, you really need something special if you are going to compete with Geneva Seal watches. Granted the PP and VC designs are very conservative, but you are getting watches that are very well finished. Lange competes in the same playing field and they aren’t being coy as to what is in their watches.

    Somebody posted previously about just getting a Cartier, I agree 100%

  • Ulysses31

    Nice cases. The dials are merely OK, as I feel they are spoiled by those randomly positioned lines and stripes. The straps should only be leather. These synthetic straps cheapen the look of anything they touch and take this classy watch to trashy in an instant.

  • Famous Writer

    “Inside the Chaumet Dandy beats a [REDACTED].” ????

    Perhaps getting a mystery movement is part of the surprise and allure of these? ??