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Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

After years of producing exclusively skull-shaped timepieces, Fiona Krüger has released her second collection, and there are no skulls involved. The Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy looks like it could have been named ZAP! or KAPOW! with its attention-grabbing angular bursts comprising the shapes of various components and cutaways. The new collection represents a departure from the very specific image the designer has become known for, with a totally different look that even required development of a new movement to fit the desired “chaotic” theme.

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

Artist and designer Fiona Krüger is Scottish but has an international background and has spent much of her career in Switzerland. We wrote about her first watch in 2011 when it was only a prototype made as a school project, before actual production began in 2013, and when its future as an actual brand was still uncertain. Her Mexican Day of the Dead-styled Skull watch got attention from the watch industry and community (hands-on here) and has turned into a full-fledged brand. Krüger has also worked with other prominent independents in the watch industry such as Peter Speake-Marin, Fabergé, and L’Epée, while her own eponymous brand has continued producing a variety of designs based around the original Skull watch.

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

Now, the Fiona Krüger Chaos collection, with its first models called Mechanical Entropy, establishes the brand as more than just skulls and begins to round out the picture of her personality and approach to design. Like the Skull watch, the Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy is vibrantly artistic and with an edgy theme – but this time instead of death, it is destruction, explosions, and “chaos.” It’s hard to take abstract themes like these and make a successful, wearable watch (cars and airplanes, for instance, are apparently a lot easier), and the result is bound to lean towards the esoteric, but Fiona Krüger’s pieces are at the very least interesting and discussion-provoking. The brand’s materials talk a lot about the philosophical ideas of time, randomness, and disorder behind the concept, but it is cool that they also provide some of the notebook sketches that include the design process and artwork she is inspired by.

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

While there are plenty of watches with skulls in some form or another (see many, many examples here), Fiona Krüger’s original Skull watch actually has a skull-shaped case, and it is on the larger side (though she has also made a smaller model). The Fiona Krüger Chaos’ lugless case is far more traditional and appears quite wearable with an oval shape measuring 40mm wide, 48mm long, and just 7.5mm thick – and it should be nice and light in brushed and polished titanium. The crown is at 12 o’clock and its grooves echo the sharp angles found elsewhere. With all the action of the watch’s face, a more simple case was the right choice, in my opinion, to balance the overall design and quietly keep the focus where it belongs: on the dial and movement design.

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

From the almost dauphine-style hands, to the shard-like indices printed on the underside of the sapphire crystal, to the comic-book-explosion-shaped cutaways, almost every element is jaggedly conspicuous. To me, it still looks intentional and carefully thought-out, but not at all expected. For all that appears to be going on, remember that this is still a two-handed, time-only watch. The two available versions differ in their rhodium or gold-plated highlights, but you can expect more versions to follow – personally, I would like to see better legibility. Even an artistic watch should always be a watch before it is art or anything else, in my opinion, meaning good legibility is a basic requirement. Blued hands might do the trick.

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Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

However, the Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy is first and foremost visual art, it seems, so aesthetics drive the design – including that of the movement itself. Usually, design has to follow the technical specifications of the movement rather than the other way around. Apparently, Krüger did not initially intend to create a new movement, but the desired visual effect required it. I have referred to the dial above, but what you are looking at from the front of the watch is in fact the movement plates which are brushed and finished with a black PVD coating – so it is more correct to refer to the watch’s “face” rather than “dial,” I suppose. Instead of a movement that is as compact as possible, the gear train has been stretched along the vertical length of the watch and is visible through laser-cut openings that also provide a view directly through the movement in places.

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

As symmetry was to be avoided in keeping with the watch’s theme, the hour and minute wheels are off-center. I can’t tell for sure from these pictures if the mainspring barrel’s cover decoration is engraved or actually skeletonized, but either way it is a nice touch. The various levels of the movement, followed by the hands above, with the indices floating over it all should make for a cool three-dimensional effect for the explosion motif. The Chaos I movement is manually wound with a power reserve of 50 hours, and it was developed by Fiona Krüger with Geneva-based movement maker Agenhor, who has been responsible for a number of notable haute horology projects.

Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy Watch Watch Releases

Even with the apparent busyness of the face, Krüger has used her negative space well and even achieved something of a minimalist feel. My first reaction upon seeing the Fiona Krüger Chaos Mechanical Entropy watch was a sort of bedazzlement, but even having looked at it longer and more closely (at least in pictures) I find I am still interested. The integration of each element into the overall design goes a long way – and indeed should be expected at this price point. The Fiona Krüger Mechanical Entropy watch will be limited to 40 pieces per year and comes on a hand-stitched “technical fabric” strap (with quick release) for a price of 26,500 CHF. fionakrugertimepieces.com

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Comments

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  • Nick

    I don’t know why but it looks really cheap

    • IanE

      Quite something for a 26,500 chf watch!

  • Raymond Wilkie

    Scottish huh ? This is a classic example of style over function. Thankfully my phone gives me the right time when i need it. I wouldn’t say i was the most cultured person here but i try as hard as i can to try and appreciate other peoples example of art and try to get into their head space and go someway to understand and their vision more. This piece is totally lost on me…..How much!

  • TheChuphta

    Outstanding. An ingenious and creative way to separate tasteless people from their money. Applause.

    • Tõnis Leissoo

      I’m afraid that this time Fiona herself got separated by Agenhor. I really don’t understand why Agenhor went all the way with this project. Someone should have said something. I really don’t understand who’s the target customer here.

  • Kivas Fajio

    I guess that I just don’t understand this watch. Front and back look alike to me. BUT, I wish them well.

  • IanE

    Expensive (very) fashion items/baubles/watches. So, the movements were developed by Kruger with Agenhor – anyone care to guess who did the horology?

    • Raymond Wilkie

      They both sound like Norse Gods 🙂

  • John Effing Zoidberg

    So luxurious and reasonably priced too. We must all order at least two.

  • SuperStrapper

    Paying no concern to price, as it’s just not a watch I’d want to own or wear personally, I can still look at it subjectively and appreciate the unique approach to both design and execution. The “bridgework” is unique and obviously designed first art then function, so I’ll just enjoy it that way. And agenhor is for real.

    I do think her skull watches were just better all around watches.

  • Mikita

    Who shattered the dial?

  • I’m probably the only one who likes this…also the dial cutout looks like a maple leaf!

  • Charlie Sherlock

    I can see that I am in the minority here, but I really like the design of this watch. The Irish heatwave must be getting to me. Obvious negatives are the price (completely nuts) and the finishing, which for this price point is way below what it should be.

  • Omegaboy

    Benjamin Franklin once said, “A fool and his money are soon parted.” If he were alive today, he’d say, “Twenty-seven thousand dollars hell! For that kind of money I can buy a new Daytona!”

  • Matt

    I’m not going to sugar coat it for ya. This watch is uglier than sin.

  • Farkbinder012

    YIKES!!! A 26,500 CHF Swatch!!! Very sad that this thing saw the light of day. Not for me.

    • Tõnis Leissoo

      I think the comparison with Swatch is very relevant. The bridges look exactly like the plastic ones on Sistema 51.

  • Gokart Mozart

    I like the basic watch and movement a lot. I suppose the artistic element could be toned down, put potentially I think the movement could be used for some great watches. It could easily be fully skeletonised and or modified for rectangle cases, maybe add a small seconds hand.

    For those complaining about the price remember this is a custom designed and shaped movement by one of the best independent movement makers available, with an annual production of just 50.pieces a year. Although it is unusually finished you can be sure that it will be finished to the appropriate level for the price, it is Agenhor after all.

    The barrel case design is interesting , and a good shape, and would look better in my opinion polished and brushed steel, but is a decent size.

    If Fiona toned down the artistic flair and give it a simpler face and hands, even just black with the silver or gold edging with blued steel grand Seiko hands it would look stunning.

    Anybody here available to do there Photoshop magic.

    Also give the back a traditional finishing and people would not be complaing about the price especially if it has hand beveling at the sharp corners.

    • Tõnis Leissoo

      You could easily say this about pretty much every ugly watch. “If you would change a, b, c, d and e, then the watch would look fine”. Unfortunately this one here is the one that is being produced and this is the one that has a 26k sticker on it.

  • Bladeknight

    Love the dial design but the case shape is meh to me.

  • Ulysses31

    I quite like it. The case shape is distinctive and the dial and rear look interesting without falling for the usual cliched watch design tropes.

  • Paulin

    The comments section here is always a bit of a grim, trolly-cluster-f*ck; normally preying on gormless kickstarter brands, and normally you can kind of see where the it’s coming from, but I thought there’d be more love for this one!
    It’s understandable that if you’re the type who wants a Newman Daytona that you probably won’t like this, but remember, the Royal Oak was so poorly received that AP almost went bust, and I bet you’d all like one of those in your collection today. Fiona should print out the comments section here and save it for a few years. New ideas are never accepted easily by joe public. As a designer, I love this watch – it’s the first new watch I’ve seen in years that I want to own. If I could afford one I would. It’s undeniably expensive, but that doesn’t mean it’s over-priced but – given it’s limited to 40 a year with a proprietary movement and is completely handmade, relatively speaking it’s great value.

  • Jura

    It is a piece of art, (not even design) that happens to also show the time if somebody really wants that from what he wears at his wrist. (Who does in these times of cell phones?)
    This product shouldn’t be discussed by watch enthusiasts, but by arts enthusiasts. Me as a watchmaker AND a arts enthusiast tip my hat to Fiona for trying such a project and also actually finishing it. Who of all those haters in the comments section achieved something of their own?
    It is a very big achievement as an artist to intervene in the geometry of a watch movement. I know that, because it’s my daily business.
    Bravo!!!