Damasko DA38, Hardness 800 HV
Damasko is best known for their no-nonsense tool watches and, most importantly, their proprietary ice-hardened steel, which gives their watches a distinctive look and renders them nearly scratch-proof (take look at used versions and try to find evidence of a scratch). Nearly all Damasko watches, such as the DA38 pictured below, are sandblasted, which brings out the steel’s deep hue and highlights its rugged build. Most of Damasko’s ice-hardened watches fall squarely into the tool and pilot watch categories, feature ETA/Valjoux movements, and sell in the $1,000-$3,000 range, though they do also have a dressier offering with an in-house caliber. The steel used in Damasko watches and bracelets was originally developed for use within the aeronautical and aerospace industry, including ball bearings on jet-engines, rotor bearings for helicopters, and fuel pumps on the space shuttle. So yes, it’ll stand up to knocks against a doorframe. Price is $1,132.
Mercer Airfoil, Hardness 1200 HV
The world of microbrands, always quick to capitalize on new and innovative techniques, has not ignored the benefits of hardened steel. Mercer Watch Co., a small and relatively new company based out of the US, produces a classically-styled, yet modern pilot watch that utilizes what they call ruggedized stainless steel. Though the process is proprietary, the result is that the Mercer Airfoil is 1200 HV – much harder than typical stainless steel – meaning that the attractive, brushed finish should stay that way for years to come. Price is $649 and you can check it out on their website at mercer watch.com.
Sinn 856, Hardness 1200 HV
Sinn is one of the quintessential German purveyors of purpose-built tool watches. Amongst their myriad models, from classic pilot watches to modern dive watches to sleek dress watches, one of the technologies Sinn offers is tegimented steel and titanium. This surface hardening procedure raises the hardness level to roughly 1200 HV and is available on several of their dive and pilot watches, including the pictured Sinn 856. The 856 offers a completely tegimented case (with an optional tegimented bracelet) and runs on an ETA 2893-2 GMT movement. On top of that, Sinn adds in additional technology such as magnetic field protection (80,000 A/m) and a dehumidifying capsule. Price is $1,770 and you can see more on their website at sinn.de.
Archimede Outdoor Protect, Hardness 1200 HV
Another German company, Archimede is one of the several house brands of renowned case manufacturer Ickler. The Archimede Outdoor Protect, which is offered in several colorways and strap options, is purpose-built for an outdoor lifestyle where scratches and dings are commonplace. This 39mm Made in Germany watch with a Swiss Made SW200-1 movement is another solid value proposition, coming in at under 1,000 euros. Like several of the other watches featuring surface hardened steel, the case (not bracelet) of the Archimede Outdoor Protect charts in at 1200 HV, ensuring that errant branches and the occasional boulder won’t be a major concern.
Bremont ALT1-C, Hardness 2000 HV
Bremont is a London-based brand with strong ties to aviation and a penchant for aviation-inspired timepieces, though their offerings are quite diverse and also include military and adventure-inspired watches. With the goal of producing watches that will continue to look good for years to come, Bremont utilizes what they call EBE2000 technology, a treatment in which the metal is “heat-treated, defused with carbon, then bombarded with electrons.” What that means for us is a watch with a hardness of 2000 HV that will continue to look as good as it did the day you purchased it for a not-insubstantial amount. The ALT1-C pictured above is a 43mm chronograph driven by a chronometer-rated, modified Valjoux 7750. If chronographs aren’t your style, Bremont utilizes their hardening process on classic pilot, sport, and even dressier watches.
Citizen Promaster Tough, Hardness ~1000-1400 HV
Citizen prides itself on producing highly functional and durable watches, and this includes several different techniques for coating (e.g., Duratect DLC) and surface-hardening (e.g., Duratect DLC). These treatments are offered across a wide range of watches with hardness ranging from a respectable 1000 HV to a mind-blowing 2500 HV (harder than a sapphire crystal). The Citizen Promaster Tough is pretty reasonably priced, ranging between $425-495. Learn more on their website at citizenwatch.com.
Montfort Strata, Hardness 1200HV
A relative newcomer on the watch scene, Swiss company Montfort successfully launched via Kickstarter in 2016, producing watches that employ highly textured 3D-printed dials and, most importantly here, scratch-resistant “Super Stainless Steel.” Similar to other techniques, their surface-hardening process results in surface hardening to a solid 1200 HV. Featuring an SW200 movement and 44mm case, the Montfort Strata offers novel and visually-striking design elements along with the hidden benefit of hardened steel. The Montfort Strata starts at about $2,000 and you can check out the range on their website here at montfortwatches.com.
Seiko Presage “Baby GS Snowflake” SARX055, Hardness 500 HV
No list of hardened watches is complete without including an example with Seiko’s venerable DiaSheild coating. Though a majority of the watches highlighted thus far fall more in the tool or sport watch category, the Seiko SARX055 (affectionately referred to as the “Baby GS Snowflake”) clearly demonstrates that even elegant watches can benefit from some added scratch-resistance. Powered by Seiko’s automatic 6R15 movement, the SARX055 is a thin and well-proportioned 40.8mm titanium watch treated with Seiko’s DiaSheild coating on both the case and bracelet. While the hardness may not quite compare to some of the other offerings on this list, DiaShield still provides 2-3 times the surface hardness of stainless steel and will do an excellent job minimizing scratches. The SARX055 is priced at $1,1oo.
Hublot Unico Full Magic Gold, Hardness 1000 HV
Stainless steel and titanium not your style? Looking for a statement piece in gold, but concerned about dropping a significant chunk of change knowing a soft gold case will inevitably be marred by scratches and dings? Hublot has your back. Their designs may be polarizing, but the investment that Hublot has put into materials science is beyond reproach. Their patented Magic Gold is a prime example of Hublot’s commitment to pushing watch material boundaries. Put to use in their appropriately named Unico Big Bang Full Magic Gold, Magic Gold is a certified 18-carat gold with a twist. By fusing 24-carat gold with carbide powder and extremely high temperatures in a novel process, Hublot is able to create the hardest gold in the world, a 1000 HV 18-carat gold. Deployed in their modern classic Big Bang case, the Magic Gold shines and will continue do so for decades to come. Price is as high as you’d expect, with a tag of $33,600. More here at their website on Hublot.com.