Capable of automatically adjusting itself for the different numbers of days in each month and even compensating for leap years, perpetual calendars are some of the most technologically complex watches available. With that in mind, while the mechanism itself is inherently complex, the way that a perpetual calendar presents its bevy of information can often be rather simple, and H. Moser & Cie. makes some of the most pared-back and minimalist perpetual calendar watches within the industry. Given that 2024 is a leap year, the Swiss brand is celebrating the occasion by creating a special perpetual calendar version of its signature integrated bracelet sports watch, and while the new Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon isn’t a limited edition where production will be capped at a specific number of examples, this model will be a special edition that will only be available for a single year.
At its most basic level, the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon (ref. 6812-1201) is essentially a dial variation of the standard-production Streamliner Perpetual Calendar watch that originally debuted in 2021. Additionally, the “Smoked Salmon” color of the dial isn’t exactly new either, as it is the same fundamental concept as the dial fitted to last year’s Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon model, which was also produced as a special edition that was only available for a period of twelve months. However, while both of these previous models featured dials that had hour markers and a minute track, this year’s new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon takes the minimalist concept of Moser’s perpetual calendar watches one step further by eliminating any type of indexes or markings on the dial whatsoever.
Just like the standard Streamliner Perpetual Calendar model, the new Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon is crafted entirely from stainless steel, and it is paired with the collection’s signature integrated bracelet, which offers an almost biomorphic appearance and blends seamlessly with the model’s rounded cushion-shaped case. The case itself measures 42.3mm in diameter by 11mm thick, although the domed sapphire crystal sticks up above the rim of the bezel to slightly increase the overall height of the watch. On the side of the case at 4 o’clock is a signed crown that screws down to help ensure 120 meters of water resistance, while the reverse side of the watch receives a screw-on display caseback. In most instances, a display caseback is simply used to showcase a watch’s internals, although Moser’s perpetual calendar models have their leap year indicators on the reverse side of their movements, which means that a display caseback is actually a necessity.
That said, given how H. Moser & Cie. decorates its calibers, a display-style caseback is also a very welcome feature, and inside the new Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon watch is the same manufacture Caliber HMC 812 manual-wind movement that can be found inside the standard-production Streamliner Perpetual Calendar model. Running at a frequency of 18,000vph (2.5 Hz) with a rather impressive minimum power reserve of 168 hours, the Cal. HMC 812 has its plates and bridges decorated with an anthracite PVD finish to create a distinctly modern and elevated appearance, although the most impressive feature of this movement is that it offers a fool-proof user experience. Unlike traditional perpetual calendar movements that can be damaged by incorrectly setting them, owners of Moser’s perpetual calendar watches are free to adjust their date displays either forward or backward at any time of day, without any concerns about accidentally damaging their movements.
While the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon is a proper perpetual calendar watch from a functional standpoint, its highly minimalist display means that reading it isn’t quite as straightforward as other timepieces that offer the same functionality. In fact, Moser even created a limited-edition model in 2022 known as the Endeavour Perpetual Calendar Tutorial, which basically had the manual for its ultra-minimal perpetual calendar movement printed on the surface of its dial. Although the leap year indicator is displayed on the reverse side of the movement and can be viewed through the window in the caseback, everything else resides on the dial, although the dial itself is entirely devoid of any text, logos, or markings and instead simply showcases its smokey copper gradient surface with the subtle vertical line “griffé” finish that Moser reserves exclusively for special edition watches.
At 4 o’clock on the dial of the Moser Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon is a date window that displays the numerical date of the month. At the same time, five hands with Globolight luminous inserts are tasked with displaying all of its other functions. Three of the four centrally-mounted hands display the hours, minutes, and seconds, although the small red fourth hand is a month indicator that points to the non-existent hour markers as a way to represent the current month (for example, 1 o’clock would be January, 2 o’clock would be February, etc.). The fifth and final hand located at 10 o’clock serves as a power-reserve indicator; however, since the dial fitted to the Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon doesn’t have any type of markings on it to help serve as reference points, a certain amount of approximation is needed to properly read its various displays.
Despite being a special edition model that will only be available for a single year, the new H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon (ref. 6812-1201) costs the same as its standard-production sibling, accompanied by an official retail price of $54,900 USD. Given that this is more than twice the cost of the time-only Streamliner Centre Seconds Smoked Salmon model from last year, this perpetual calendar variant is undeniably a premium offering within the lineup, although it is hardly the most expensive version of the Streamliner that Moser currently produces, as there are solid gold versions that are fitted with tourbillon-equipped movements and exotic material dials. Offering a double dose of thematic juxtapositions, the “Smoked Salmon” color of the dial offers an inherently retro aesthetic against the unapologetically modern lines of the Streamliner’s case, while its ultra-minimalist display creates a deceptively simple appearance that contrasts against the complex functionality of its movement. For more information on the H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Perpetual Calendar Concept Smoked Salmon, please visit the brand’s website.
