After saying goodbye to the UR-210 in 2020 and the UR-220 in 2022, Urwerk now welcomes a new model to the popular UR-200 series. Meet the Urwerk UR-230 “Eagle” watch, which retains many of the signature details of its progenitors but also boasts a slew of updates that will no doubt please fans of the independent high-horology watch brand.
Right off the bat, we see the familiarity of the trapeze-shaped case; yet, it’s different thanks to its new protective cover that can be lifted 90 degrees or locked into place when needed. As is customary for Urwerk watches, the UR-230 is sizable, measuring 44.81mm across, 55mm in length, and 18.38mm thick. Both the case and cover are fashioned from Carbon Thin Ply (CTP) carbon and black DLC-treated titanium. The black CTP carbon is machined in superimposed layers (318 layers in total) and pressure-bonded at high temperatures, which yields that distinctive pattern. To ensure easy lifting of the cover, the beak-shaped edge includes a finger grip; plus, there’s also a brake system to slow it down when closing to avoid any damage to the sapphire crystal it serves to protect. The case is water resistant to 30 meters.
Those familiar with Urwerk watches will know that the revolving satellite complication is a hallmark of the brand, and on the UR-230 “Eagle” we’re treated to a wonderful view of the whole system when the cover is lifted, complete with the wandering hours and retrograde minutes hand. A three-armed carousel with rotating blocks includes four numbers, which scroll along a 120-degree sector. The current hour is displayed within an aluminum retrograde hand, pointing to the current minutes on a semi-circular scale. Once the 60th minute has passed, the hand jumps back to its starting position where the next hour’s cube is ready to join it.
Besides the creative time display, the watch also includes some new functions. Urwerk furnished the UR-230 with a set of turbine shock absorbers (visible via the caseback) where one reduces shock impacts while the other controls the airflow feeding the winding system. At 11 o’clock on the dial is the “Air-Brake” strength indicator (developed to regulate winding power based on the wearer’s activity level), which is adjusted with a rotating knob on the back of the watch. There’s another knob on the caseback to switch the watch from automatic winding to manual winding, which is indicated at the On-Off display at 1 o’clock. The hybrid winding system is all due to the new Caliber UR-7.30 that powers the UR-230 “Eagle,” operating at 28,800vph and supplying around 50 hours of power reserve. When the lights go down, we see that Urwerk opted for both green and blue Super-Luminova depending on the indication.
Finishing off the look of the Urwerk Eagle is the Kiska “Vulcarbonised” rubber strap, fitted with a black DLC-treated buckle and Velcro fastening. While this strap design is certainly not new for Urwerk, the fact that the “wings” on the strap match the case cover silhouette is a nice touch.
Limited to 35 examples, the Urwerk UR-230 “Eagle” is priced at CHF 180,000 Swiss Francs, which is just slightly over $203,000 USD at the time of publishing. What Urwerk does with its watches, both creatively and technically, is always impressive and the “Eagle” is no exception. As co-founder and watchmaker Felix Baumgartner explains, “We don’t try to bring out new versions of existing grandes complications. Our watches are unique because they are all designed as original work. Our main aim is to go beyond the traditional horizons of watchmaking.” For more information, please visit the brand’s website.