March 26, 2019
When it comes to watches that claim lineage in the Bauhaus movement, these tend to be largely focused on male consumers. At best, they will come in a size labeled “unisex,” generally around the 38mm mark. And sure, many women will be happy to wear a watch in that size. For NOMOS, that was not enough. To that end, they’ve released four models in the NOMOS Duo lineup that are no more than 33mm in diameter.
What I like the most about these smaller NOMOS Duo models is the fact that, aside from the smaller size, these look just like any other watch. NOMOS — quite wisely — resisted any urge to slap gems onto the watch or ply some flowery motif. Yes, there are watches that are designed around those ideas, and if it’s from scratch, it can work. But taking an existing watch, then shrinking and bedazzling it? That’s just lazy. The NOMOS Duo is the opposite of lazy, in my book.
Even the naming of the collection — NOMOS Duo — is elegant. The watches have two hands and no other complications. Hence, Duo. All four models are powered by the in-house Alpha.2 movement, which is a hand-wound caliber with a 43-hour power reserve and some rather lovely finishing (full details below). This also underscores one of the oft-overlooked exaggerations in the watch world. All those massive watches, even those with exhibition casebacks, often have rather small movements tucked away inside. In the Duo lineup, the 23.3mm movement has just enough space to do its work. No more, no less.
The first one in the lineup, the NOMOS Glashütte Tangente 33 Duo, looks very much like a NOMOS to me, with a simple circular profile, a dial with alternating numerals and indices, and thin lugs projecting off of the case. This particular model is only 6.5mm-thick, as well, which means it should be a pleasure to wear on any diminutive wrist. If you’d prefer a sportier model, then I’d say the NOMOS Orion 33 Duo is the place to go. Case size is the same (though thickness goes to 7.6mm), and the lug profile definitely has a sportier look with the wider flares at the case, even though it maintains the same 17mm lug width. Just don’t swim with it, as it only carries a 30m water-resistance rating (as do the other models).
On the other hand, if you do like the look of the Tangente, but prefer Roman numerals rather than Arabic, then the NOMOS Glashütte Ludwig 33 Duo is your choice. In all aspects of the spec sheet, the watch is the same — you’ve just got the different case and dial. Finally, if you like your Bauhaus with a splash of Art Deco, then I’d suggest you check out the NOMOS Glashütte Tetra 27 Duo. This takes the shape of a square but with some rather nice stepped lugs. Along with case shape change, the lugs are a touch wider (18mm), so you get a different sense of the visual proportions.
All in all, I’d say these new NOMOS Glashütte Duo models are a tasteful addition to the collection. It should be worth noting that the brand was able to lower the prices on these watches, as the movement was (literally) less complicated by the removal of the small seconds. Prices (detailed below) will range from $1,380 to $1,660. To learn more visit nomos-glashuette.com.