Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde is the latest in the Toric line of watches, which represent the relatively conservative side of the brand with a traditional case and signature knurled bezel. This new-for-2017 model is a dual time zone watch which allows the wearer to set a second time right down to the minute, which is useful for tracking time zones that are offset by half-hour or even quarter-hour differences. This is unlike traditional GMT watches which only measure full-hour increments.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The precision and functionality of the second time zone indicator is possible thanks to the caliber PF317, an automatic movement with a module designed and supplied by Jean-Marc Wiederrecht (interviewed here about his First Grail Watch). With his company AgenHor, Wiederrecht has been making waves recently for his impressive work with movement and module design and is the man behind the AgenGraphe movement, the module in the Slim d'Hermès Perpetual Calendar (hands-on here), and of course, the Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde's module.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The caliber PF317, as mentioned earlier, displays time in two time zones to the minute with a day/night indicator for both time zones and, to top it all off, a retrograde date indication. The movement beats at 28,800bph and provides 50 hours of power reserve which is more than adequate. As you might expect, this is a lot of mechanics to pack into a wristwatch movement and the module is significantly larger in diameter than the base movement. Parmigiani has smartly designed the case back to work with this, with the display portion only revealing the base movement with its 22ct rose gold rotor and Cotês de Genève decoration.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

If we flip over to the "white-grained" (even though it looks more off-white in these pictures) dial, we see that this is a busy presentation and can appear a little confusing at first glance. The sub-dial with rhodium-plated hands at 12 o'clock is the second time zone. It is highlighted with a gold ring but is subtle enough to not be distracting. To its right is the day/night indication for this second time zone. The primary time zone is featured on the main dial with javelin-shaped hands made from rose gold and filled with Super-LumiNova. The hand with the red crescent moon at the tip is not the seconds hand but the retrograde date.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The manner in which the first three and last three numbers for the date track are flipped around may prove annoying to some people - and I'm not entirely sure it was necessary to flip them in this case. The sub-dial at 6 o'clock indicates both running seconds and the day/night for the primary time zone. In my opinion, the day/night indicator for the primary time zone is redundant. While I can appreciate the mechanical complexity in having it there, it adds more complexity to an already packed dial. The entire dial is encircled by a railway track chapter ring and applied rose gold hour markers. Overall, Parmigiani has done a good job at balancing out the many elements of the dial, and it becomes pretty intuitive to read after about the first minute.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

The Super-LumiNova is something that stood out to me. In the world of haute horlogerie, manufactures sometimes forget the value of modern features such as lumed hands and an AR-coated crystal. For a watch to be versatile and a daily wearer, it has to have both good design and some modern features. Parmigiani seems to recognize this as they provide both lume on the hands and double AR-coating on the sapphire crystal.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

All of this is housed in the signature rose gold Toric case, which was Michel Parmigiani's first design back in the '90s. A signature design element is the knurled bezel which gives the classic design an interesting twist. You'll notice that there are two crowns, the top is to set the second time zone independently while the bottom is to set both time zones simultaneously. The watch is on the larger side at 42.8mm in diameter due to the module and the need for dial space to fit the various indications. The gently angled lugs are polished and offer a nice contrast to the texture of the bezel. The case is rated to 30m of water resistance which is adequate for a dress watch.

Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde Watch Watch Releases

For those who may find the design too conservative and prefer something edgier, it's worth noting that the same movement is available in the Parmigiani Tonda Hémisphères that launched in 2010. I personally prefer the dressier, refined presentation of the Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde. The highlight of this watch, however, is not the design but the movement and its ability to track the second time zone down to a minute. The Parmigiani Toric Hémisphères Rétrograde ships on a black Hermès alligator leather strap with deployment buckle and is available at retailers for a price of $29,500. parmigiani.com

What do you think?
  • Thumbs up (15)
  • Classy (13)
  • I want it! (7)
  • I love it! (4)
  • Interesting (4)
  • IanE

    Some nice bits, but it reminds me of the joke about a camel being a horse designed by a committee. PF nearly always make very good movements but their dial-side design is, so often, ‘close but no cigar’!

  • Sheez Gagoo

    I really like this. Really nice. Never been a fan of Parmesany, but this one…
    Btw: Where’s Marius? Pattaya?

    • Mikita

      Some say that there is no single Rolex Datejust left in Monte Carlo, all were suddenly sold out…

    • Simon_Hell

      Naked British tourist falls from a hotel balcony in Thailand after romping with a ladyboy prostitute

      Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-4568646/Naked-Brit-falls-balcony-romp-prostitute.html#ixzz4pIIwrEbv
      Follow us: @MailOnline on Twitter | DailyMail on Facebook

      • Sheez Gagoo

        Incredible, all the details and pictures in the article.

      • Phil leavell

        Talk about getting off

      • Mikita

        Just another day in Pattaya..

  • Pete Pete

    it’s not a looker. but at least it’s expensive.

    • Berndt Norten

      As ACIII says, if it doesn’t disembowel you financially it isn’t worth it

      • Moonraker

        It’s gotta hurt. If your wife doesn’t at least contemplate divorce due to a watch’s purchase, then that watch is a sh*tter.

  • Mikita

    Better not look too long at the day/night indicator and the back of this Parmesani. https://uploads.disquscdn.com/images/25714262db2dcf60c03efed9b03ee7e856308a770fd02f9750a14009182bda30.jpg

  • egznyc

    This looks like a toy, albeit a classy and complicated one. I guess that’s a compliment. Just not my cup of tea with so much going on and not as coherent as I’d expect. But it’d be a fun watch if it weren’t so expensive.

  • Yan Fin

    Sincerely trying to like every appearing design from this brand, and just can’t. Maybe next time…

    • Berndt Norten

      Love peace and harmony
      O very nice
      But maybe in the next world

  • Phil leavell

    I think I’m going to enjoy my chemo more than this watch

    • Sheez Gagoo

      ???

      • Phil leavell

        Superluminova for people

        • Sheez Gagoo

          Best wishes.

          • Phil leavell

            No worries I can afford to lose a few pounds thanks

  • IG

    This must have the biggest gap between the tip of the minute hand and the minute scale I’ve ever seen.

    • Ayreonaut

      Only sometimes! The center wheel is not centered.

  • SuperStrapper

    Executed as a 3/4 rotor, quite interesting. Can’t think of another movement module with this much size discrepancy.

  • Parmigiani has some of the most unique/interesting hands and they are really part of their DNA. These are the sorriest pygmy spear hands I have ever seen.

  • Moonraker

    I don’t mind it having an AM/PM for the local time, but there are some design choices on this watch that seem like they were chosen in a hurry. That gray color for the dates, the subdial stick hands, the chintzy looking little hour markers,…. Not to mention the crowns at 2:15 and 3:20.

  • Gokart Mozart

    Stunning watch. This is a great looking watch with a beautiful style.

    Yes possibly the minute hand is slightly short and it is not the most legible of watches, but if you have a problem reading the time it is because you are probably less than 7 years old or your only aspect of reading time is on a mobile phone.

    A watch that you can tell has been passionately created, and gives you an emotional response.

  • Kuroji

    Thank you for the assurance that 50 hours power reserve is more than adequate. I would not have been able to form a value judgement about that on my own. It’s the kind of nuanced analysis we come here for.

    • JosephWelke

      Perhaps it’s a reference to typical power reserves of other dress-style watches?

      • Kuroji

        It’s just extra words. 50 hours is respectable, but less than 60 is nothing to crow about. The adequacy is something that can only be decided by the buyer.

  • Mark1884

    Love the case, dial and hands look a bit off to me.
    I would wear this watch though.

    • Moonraker

      My only concern is that others wouldn’t see it as the trophy it is.

      • Mark1884

        Thank you for bringing up that valid point. If I wear it, people must be able to instantly recognize it as a trophy watch.
        Re-thinking this one……

  • Mischa

    Another stunning piece by Parmigiani. Despite the super luminova and AR coating, I don’t think it’s that practical, in terms of time reading (no hour markers, and no reference lume anywhere else). But I wouldn’t buy for practicality, but rather for the love of beautiful watchmaking.

  • The mechanical design is fascinating. It appears the dual time zone module becomes the movement holder when assembled. I like what they have done with the date display layout.

  • Word Merchant

    Rather than weigh in as usual just after my morning or afternoon double espresso, half pint of gin, a cigar and a good retch, I’ve decided this watch deserves some careful thought and pondering. And it’s a real grower. After so many misses both near and far, I truly think that Parmigiani have attained watch perfection in their own style. The problem is now of course that there’s no point in them continuing to make new watches. They’ll never top this one.

  • Ulysses31

    I normally don’t like this implementation of the date indicator, but this is undeniably a beautiful watch.