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Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial

Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial Hands-On

Tutima has been expanding the color options for a few of its collections in recent years, and the brand has been executing these pretty well. A few months back, we took a look at the green Flieger 6105, which is one of the brand’s entry level offerings and one of the best values in the category available — it was on our list of favorite watches from Baselworld 2019. Also shown at last year’s Baselworld is this ruby red Saxon One Chronograph that is a bit more divisive in nature but a lot of fun at the same time.

Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial Hands-On

Red dial watches are still on the periphery as far as current trends go, but we’ve been seeing more and more of them (the TAG Heuer Monaco 1979-1989 comes to mind). It’s all in the execution, and I think Tutima succeeds in what it calls both “racing red” and “fire engine red,” which is pretty close to ruby red to my eye. There is some good contrast with the red on the sub-dials being a bit lighter and brighter than on the rest of the dial. Overall, I find that the distinct case of the Saxon One is made more noticeable with a louder dial like this red one. There are so many chronograph options out there in the mid five-figures and many buyers are looking for a watch that can show off their personality more, and this red Saxon One certainly does that. It’s important to remember that this likely will not be the first or only watch in someone’s collection, which the appeal of this red dial hinges on.

Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial Hands-On

Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial Hands-On

The Saxon One is a dressy chronograph that was released back in 2013 and, having worn one on several occasions, it left an impression on me.First off, the distinct angled cushion case is not similar to many others I’ve seen out there, and Tutima calls it “pyramidal,” which is fairly accurate. I enjoy and appreciate the design quite a bit, even though it makes the watch wear a bit larger than its 43mm case would suggest. (It’s 15.7mm thick, which adds to the wrist presence.) I think scaling down the case size to 42 or even 41mm would do wonders for the Saxon One. I believe the three-hand Saxon One is now available in 40mm, though.

I really am glad Tutima kept the case in a matte finish, though I am just not the biggest fan of the polished bi-directional bezel on the Saxon One. That said, the long integrated chronograph pushers punch above their weight in both tactile and aesthetic consideration.

Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial Hands-On

It’s easy to skim over this, but it’s really not that often that you see a truly unique case with this kind of finishing for the price. One more thing of note: The watch is water resistant to 200M. To compare, it’s superior to several other chronographs in this price category, like the TAG Heuer Monaco (100M), Omega Speedmaster Professional (50M), or IWC Pilot’s Watch Chronograph (60M).

Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial Hands-On

The Saxon One has another a feature that one rarely sees in this ~$6,000 price point — a central chronograph minute hand rather than a sub-dial counter. Having central chronograph seconds and minute hands is clearly superior for ease of use and is also a callback to the Tutima NATO Chronograph from the 1980’s. Back in the 1980’s, the now nearly 100-year-old Tutima was chosen to officially produce watches for NATO forces in Europe, which has long endeared the brand to pilot watch enthusiasts.

Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial Hands-On

Tutima does have its own manufacture, though the Saxon One Chronograph can’t make that boast (though the Patria  Steel 6610 is one of the best in-house values out there). Used here is the Caliber Tutima 521 automatic movement, which is a considerably modified Valjoux 7750. With the Lemania 5100 in mind, Tutima created a proprietary chronograph system that adds the central minute-hand function, as well as 24-hour counter at 12 o’clock. Done with 25 jewels, the 521 has a 44-hour power reserve.

Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial Hands-On

Hands-On: Tutima Saxon One Chronograph Watch With Racing Red Dial Hands-On

The Tutima Saxon One Chronograph in red is a low-key value that delivers a really great overall chronograph in a fun color for the many people who are bored of the typical black, white, blue, etc dial colors out there. It is available on either a bracelet with a folding clasp or, as seen here, an alligator strap with steel folding clasp. To be honest, I find the red alligator strap that you see here to just be a bit too much and would personally go for the bracelet. Price for the Tutima Saxon One Chronograph in red dial is $6,100 on strap and $6,500 on bracelet. You can learn more at tutima.com.

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Comments

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  • SMB

    Great article and photos. It was helpful to read what you thought of the finishing and wearability. I like the look of the Tutima Saxon One chronograph, though I prefer the grey dial model. Unfortunately, I don’t think there are any Tutima dealers within 7 hours flight so it is hard to try them myself.

  • Jerry Davis

    This is one of those watches that I would never buy, but I would love to own.

    • cluedog12

      Agreed. Most people who can drop $6,000 on a twice-per-month watch are going to be looking at something everyday like a *yawn* 15202 Royal Oak or it’s the classic dress watch exception.

  • ?????? ??????????

    “Red dial watches are still on the periphery as far as current trends go… ” let’s keep it that way because… My God, look at it! Awful….

  • SuperStrapper

    Red af.

    There is a Toyota dealership in my area and their logo is a stylised T that is a dead ringer for the one that starts Tutima as seen on the dial here. Every time I see one of their license plate covers or decals I think the owner must really love watches.

  • Independent_George

    Very, very red. Loud, angry red.

    Maybe a black strap would help, because otherwise this is the Soviet Flag/MAGA hat of watches.

  • baiguai

    All my watches are subdued (Black leather bands, black/dark gray or white dials), but I actually really like the looks of this watch – red and all.
    The custom lug configuration though:/
    And yeah bout 40mm would be good.

  • Playboy Johnny – Team Mariu$

    It certainly makes a statement…… I like it.

  • Craig A Clark

    I think it’s visually beautiful, but I don’t think I would pay that price for it, but I might, if I had that money, which I don’t.

    Style and colour including the strap is bang on the money to carry off so much red.

  • Mark Mason

    As I already love, and own, the Green Tutima Sky watch, there’s no surprise I actually really like this watch too, very beautiful.
    Great quality finish and a good shade of red. Definitely a nice addition to the Saxon range, where in my opinion the Grey on grey strap was the highlight until this appeared.
    Once small issue might be the band isn’t exactly the same red as the dial, perhaps could be a bit darker

  • egznyc

    It’s loud and proud. I am a sucker for central minute chronographs so this is easy to love – not to mention the interesting case. The only problem? It’s well beyond my watch budget.

  • Ulysses31

    The watch is beautiful and bold, with a nice handset and hour markers. That dial really pops, but they could’ve matched the strap colour to the dial a bit better. If it were a blue dial with a bracelet, I would love it even more.

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