For Watches & Wonders 2020, Vacheron Constantin is dropping two absolutely lustworthy new solid pink gold Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin watches. One is a skeletonized dial model and the other has a blue lacquered dial (which, interestingly, is the first time Vacheron has done this case and dial combo).
Brand: Vacheron Constantin
Model: Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Ref. 4300V/120R-B509/ Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Openworked Ref. 4300V/120R-B547
Water Resistance: 50M
Case Material: 18k 5N Pink Gold
Movement: 1120 QP/1 (1120 QPSQ/1 for Openworked); Does not require adjustment before March 1, 2100 for day, date, month, or moon phase indicators.
Power Reserve: 40 hours
Strap/Bracelet: Each comes with solid pink gold bracelet, alligator leather strap, and blue rubber strap
Price & Availability: $88,500 USD for blue dial/ $115,000 USD for Openworked
At SIHH 2019 (now renamed Watches & Wonders), Vacheron Constantin dropped white and rose gold variants of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-thin in silver and blue dial, so these new pieces are further line extensions. The new blue dial variant replaces rose gold with pink gold, which I personally prefer since rose gold is just not my thing, typically. The press photos provided by Vacheron give a good idea of what the final product should look like, and I encourage you to check out our hands-on article with last year’s rose gold variant to get an even better look at what to expect from dial and finishing.
The all new Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Openworked hollows out and refinishes the 1120 QP/1 movement, resulting in something new and truly special. Skeletonization is always hit or miss, with the success of the final product hinging on the thoughtfulness of the finished product’s design. Oftentimes, brands seem to be content with a final product that looks unfinished rather than openworked. That’s not what’s happening here (again, just judging from press shots), which is made further impressive by the fact that we’re talking about an ultra-thin perpetual calendar movement.
The skeletonization is hand-done with satin-brushing, beveling, sunburst, circular brushing, graining, and polishing finishes throughout. You’ll also notice the skeletonized rotor on the caseback in the shape of the brand’s Maltese Cross logo, which is actually done in a NAC-treated gold that results in a brooding anthracite grey.
Again, the Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Ultra-Thin in pink gold with blue dial Ref. 4300V/120R-B509 is priced at $88,500 USD, and the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin Openworked Ref. 4300V/120R-B547 is priced at $115,000 USD. You can learn more at vacheron-constantin.com.